[Profeta]

Hey guys I am fed up with the dawm ABS light coming on and off. I took it the mech and he said there is nothing wrong with the brakes is just a sensor but the fucking light is driving me insane can anyone tell me how to fix the shit..

PS: Sorry for the language I needed to vent..LOL

[CNASHGO]

you could replace the sensor

[Profeta]

can you tell where the sensor is and how to replace it?

[CNASHGO]

I believe there is a sensor just behind each wheel. there should be what looks like a gear that spins with the wheel and the sensor monitors when each tooth on the gear comes around.

http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/framerq.asp

never mind that site will only work if you have my user name and password

[Mywhite00gt]

The sensor should be attached to the hub assembly/wheel bearing behind the rotor- you might want to check the wheel bearing as well usually the ABS sensor going bad goes along with a bad wheel bearing/hub assembly
it sells as one unit sensor and hub assembly(as far as I know)

[snoel123]

There is a sensor at each front wheel. All solid axle abs equipped mustangs have on on the top of your differential housing. You need to pull the code to find out which sensor is faulty. Sometimes all it is is the rear diff sensor has metal filings on it and it is contaminating the sensor. Also note all IRS mustangs have sensors at each rear wheel. Be aware that it can also be wiring, tone ring and module issues. Just throwing sensors at it can turn out costly. Get the code read, post the number and I can tell you how to diagnose it. Hope this helps you.

[coffinator6]

Originally Posted by snoel123 There is a sensor at each front wheel. All solid axle abs equipped mustangs have on on the top of your differential housing. You need to pull the code to find out which sensor is faulty. Sometimes all it is is the rear diff sensor has metal filings on it and it is contaminating the sensor. Also note all IRS mustangs have sensors at each rear wheel. Be aware that it can also be wiring, tone ring and module issues. Just throwing sensors at it can turn out costly. Get the code read, post the number and I can tell you how to diagnose it. Hope this helps you.

thats funny because my sensors on my 01 are at each rear wheel and not in the center.

to the op. they are super easy to replace on the rear. just takes a 7mm or 8mm socket. loosen the bolt and pull the sensor straight back while turning it back ant forth. it shouls slide right out. then disconnect it. reverse the last steps for install. I'm not sure but after install you might have to go through a sequesnce so that car understands that there is a new sensor. I know some cars require that, but im not sure if the mustang does. i have had mine unbolted to remove the axles but never unplugged.

[snoel123]

Originally Posted by coffinator6 thats funny because my sensors on my 01 are at each rear wheel and not in the center. to the op. they are super easy to replace on the rear. just takes a 7mm or 8mm socket. loosen the bolt and pull the sensor straight back while turning it back ant forth. it shouls slide right out. then disconnect it. reverse the last steps for install. I'm not sure but after install you might have to go through a sequesnce so that car understands that there is a new sensor. I know some cars require that, but im not sure if the mustang does. i have had mine unbolted to remove the axles but never unplugged.

Maybe they are two on the rear of solid axle mustangs. Don't work on abs with mustangs too much (they don't see corrosion and wear like the trucks.).
Anyway it doesn't matter if you change all 4 sensors because of an abs light, you might as well burn up 400 bucks. Your abs light can be on from a wiring problem , module problem, relay problem, network problem etc. But hey if you want to throw away money go ahead and change all the sensors.

[snoel123]

Heres the codes that turn on abs light

+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------|
| DTC | Source | Action |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1095 | Hydraulic Pump Motor Circuit | GO to Pinpoint Test F. |
| | Failure | |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1145 | RF Anti-Lock Brake Sensor | GO to Pinpoint Test B. |
| | Input Circuit Failure | |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1155 | LF Anti-Lock Brake Sensor | GO to Pinpoint Test C. |
| | Input Circuit Failure | |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1165 | RR Anti-Lock Brake Sensor | GO to Pinpoint Test D. |
| | Input Circuit Failure | |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1175 | LR Anti-Lock Brake Sensor | GO to Pinpoint Test E. |
| | Input Circuit Failure | |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1194 | LF ABS Outlet Valve Coil | REPLACE the EHCU. |
| | Circuit Failure | |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1198 | LF ABS Inlet Valve Coil | REPLACE the EHCU. |
| | Circuit Failure | |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1210 | RF ABS Outlet Valve Coil | REPLACE the EHCU. |
| | Circuit Failure. | |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1214 | RF ABS Inlet Valve Coil | REPLACE the EHCU. |
| | Circuit Failure. | |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1222 | Wheel Speed Signal Mismatch | GO to Pinpoint Test G. |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1233 | LF Speed Signal Missing/Failed | GO to Pinpoint Test C. |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1234 | RF Speed Signal Missing/Failed | GO to Pinpoint Test B. |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1235 | RR Speed Signal Missing/Failed | GO to Pinpoint Test D. |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1236 | LR Speed Signal Missing/Failed | GO to Pinpoint Test E. |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1242 | Rear ABS Outlet Valve Coil | REPLACE the ECHU. |
| | Circuit Failure | |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1250 | Rear ABS Inlet Valve Coil | REPLACE the ECHU. |
| | Circuit Failure | |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| C1266 | ABS Valve Power Relay Circuit | REPLACE the anti-lock brake |
| | Failure | control module. |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| B1318 | Battery Power Low | GO to Pinpoint Test A. |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| B1342 | ECU Defective | REPLACE the anti-lock brake |
| | | control module. |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+
| B1596 | Service Continuous Codes | REPAIR DTCs retrieved. |
+------------+--------------------------------+--------------------------------+

[snoel123]

Oh yeah you can clear codes and reset KAM (Keep Alive Memory) once you correct the problem to get rid of the abs light. If it is a sensor issue that is repaired upon replacement just drive the car if no scan tool is available. Once the speed signals are all synchronized again (after a few kms) the computer will turn the light off but keep the dtc as a CMDTC (continuous memory diagnostic trouble code) until KAM is reset.

[97S281]

mine was a wire that was disconnected before i bought it. all they had to do was reconnect it and all was well. I wouldn't go replacing shit until you verify the problem, otherwise your just pissing money away.