[DiZzyBonne]

Instead of getting into details, I'm gonna get straight to the point.

H & R Super Sport Spring 96-04 - Installation Instructions at AmericanMuscle.com

Originally Posted by AmericanMuscle.com Jack up the rear of the car, supporting it with jack stands on the rear subframes. Remove wheels. Then, jack up on the dogbone (little metal plate in front of differential) about 5 inches, making sure that the car does not come off the jack stands that are secured under the rear subframes, and support each axle with jack stands. [b]NOTE: you're jacking up the rear end but the car's body cannot rise, just the differential. This secures the axles and makes sure that they don't twist and bind when you remove the lower control arm bolt.[b]

What exactly does it mean by what's in bold? When I did mine today, I only jacked it up on the subframes, and that's all. How would I know if anything twisted and binded?

Also:

Originally Posted by AmericanMuscle.com Now pick a side, and only perform one side at a time! Locate the 13/16 inch bolt that secures the lower control arm to the axle housing. Important: place your jack under the control arm and raise the jack just enough to put solid tension on the LCA (jack in the middle of the LCA). Now remove the bolt securing the housing and LCA. This bolt will be hard to break (hopefully you already sprayed it with PB Blaster), but get a breaker bar out and put some "American Muscle" into it, you'll get it. Once the bolt is removed, SLOWLY lower the jack down, letting all the tension off the spring, and remove the spring.

Since I was with my friend, and he was in a hurry, we each did a side.

Lastly, people always say to get lower and upper control arms. Doesn't the Mustang GT already have them? I'm GUESSING they mean to replace the stock ones? Thanks!

[SWEET2KSTANG]

dont worry about the twisting and binding, if everything bolted up just fine then your are set. the twisting they are talking about is the axle moving and it can be a pain to get it back to the way its suppose to be. and yes they mean replacing stock arms.

[DiZzyBonne]

Awesome, reps headed your way!

Now, why does it say to do one side at a time? It even has an exclamation mark, so it must be serious! Lol, for real though, it has so much enthusiasm on that part, what gives?

Originally Posted by AmericanMuscle.com Now pick a side, and only perform one side at a time! Locate the 13/16 inch bolt that secures the lower control arm to the axle housing. Important: place your jack under the control arm and raise the jack just enough to put solid tension on the LCA (jack in the middle of the LCA). Now remove the bolt securing the housing and LCA. This bolt will be hard to break (hopefully you already sprayed it with PB Blaster), but get a breaker bar out and put some "American Muscle" into it, you'll get it. Once the bolt is removed, SLOWLY lower the jack down, letting all the tension off the spring, and remove the spring.

[SWEET2KSTANG]

it keeps the axle from moving, dropping, limits the twist, etc.

[DiZzyBonne]

So since I'm done, and the rear is in, nothing is messed up? How could I check if I did something wrong?

Also, I'm hearing a scratching noise in the front driver side. It sounds like grabbing a piece of metal and dragging it across concrete. I can hear it driving like 10-20 MPH and more, but as long as I let off the gas - because my exhaust would drown it out otherwise. So lets say I'm rolling neutral, I can hear it, and it's not one long scratch that keeps on going, but it's more as if it's doing it in intervals like within a second or two of each other. It's kind of hard to explain, I wish I had a camera.

On the front I reused the stock bottom isolator because I couldn't get the new ones to fit, nor the old top one to fit. I DON'T hear that scratch on the passenger side.

[DiZzyBonne]

Dammit, I can't edit my post after 15 minutes. The reason I mentioned the fact that I didn't install the top isolator was just to let you know, because possibly that could be the culprit, but since I don't hear it on the passenger side, I just wanna hear your opinion.

[rwboring]

thats why they are there... but yeah springs arnt that bad to put on... LCA's arnt either but my bolts on the axle side was pretty seized up... had to beat on them some

[the real shocker]

did you take your brake calipers off of the fronts? It may be the pads rubbing on the rotor

[DiZzyBonne]

We took off the brake pads on both the driver AND passenger side, but on the driver side we took off the rotor as well. Well, next week I'm gonna install the isolators, lift the front up a little. It looks weird because the front is so low and the rear isn't. Hell, I didn't just spend $25 on some front isolators to not reuse them! I don't wanna sell them either lol. Anyway, while I'm under there, is there anything else I should check? You say to check the brake pad rubbing against the rotor, where exactly would it be rubbing? My other friend also to me to check the dust shield, make sure it's not bent, and if it is, just straighten it out. Thanks!

[the real shocker]

it could be the dust shield... if I heard the sound it would be much easier to diagnose...

If it is the pads rubbing, how did you compress the pistons to get the pads back in?

[DiZzyBonne]

They just slid right in lol.

[the real shocker]

i would just about put my lunch money on it being a dragging pad

[DiZzyBonne]

Just wanna make sure, by dragging pad you're talking about the brake pad, right? What exactly would it be dragging against, the rotor correct? Isn't the pad supposed to be around the rotor? So how exactly would it drag? And is it bad if I don't fix it? I will fix it next week on Wednesday, but I'm just curious, thanks!

[the real shocker]

the brake pads should have just enough space between themselves and the rotors not to constantly drag, until you hit the brake pedal. If they continuously drag, you run the risk of ruining the pads and/or making them wear down pretty fast. If they drag pretty hard, you run the risk of getting the rotors and brakes getting so hot that they catch fire

[Exodus]

I'll bet my lunch money its the dust cover. They're really flimsy and you could bend one without knowing it.

[the real shocker]

Originally Posted by Exodus I'll bet my lunch money its the dust cover. They're really flimsy and you could bend one without knowing it.

highly possible... i bent mine a few times

[the real shocker]

what ended up being the problem?

[DiZzyBonne]

Oh sorry I forgot to post up, it was the dust shield lol. When I was originally working on the driver-side spring, my hand slipped when I was wrenching one of the bolts and scraped my arm on the dust shield, that might of done the trick . Anyway, that annoying sound is gone, and my isolators are installed, my car isn't as low, and I don't scrape on every speed bump, hurray for me!

[the real shocker]

good news... easy fix!

[DiZzyBonne]

If I already had the isolators installed, and I knew for sure the dust shield was the problem, I could of just stuck my hand through the wheels and fixed it without taking them off lol.