[20gtvert03]

Well i have springs and a bumpsteer kit, and new isolators. i am about to order tokico hp shocks ans struts, and cc plates. Since you have to take the front brakes off anyway i want to do them too. i can get some front bullitt calipers and rotors for the front, but could i just order some good rotors and pads, to perform just as good, or should i just get the bullitt brakes. And what is a good set of control arms that are not to expensive?
Even once i get all these parts(maybe 2-3 weeks) I want to get a QA-1 k-member and control arms. What do you guys think, could i install it all myself , and am i on the right track.

[97S281]

Are we talking about rear or front control arms? Are you going with a straight replacement or are you going coil-over? Are you going for tubular control arms?

As for the brakes it depends on your plans for the motor. If your eventualy going to add boost, hell yeah you need to upgrade. If your going to stay n/a for a while just get some high performance pads and rotors and delay the brakes till you are in need of them.

Hell yeah, you can do it all yourself. Just go slow and methodically and you can do anything.

[20gtvert03]

Originally Posted by 97S281 Are we talking about rear or front control arms? Are you going with a straight replacement or are you going coil-over? Are you going for tubular control arms? As for the brakes it depends on your plans for the motor. If your eventualy going to add boost, hell yeah you need to upgrade. If your going to stay n/a for a while just get some high performance pads and rotors and delay the brakes till you are in need of them. Hell yeah, you can do it all yourself. Just go slow and methodically and you can do anything.

Im asking about what kind of rear control arms to get. I dont want to do coil-overs, but the front control arms well be tubular in the front along with k-member. IDK about the rear, i dont know whats best for the rear.
I well upgrade the brakes then, i am going KB in not too far future (once all supporting mods are done) Thanks, reps

[97S281]

If you are going to lower it you may want to use adjustable uppers. You can reset your pinion angle with them as it will get off when you drop it. I went with adjustable upper and lowers in the rear as I have a big drop and it was necessary to straighten out the rear suspension. I was popping u-joints about every three months due to my pinion angle being so far off.

[97S281]

also, if you go tubular in the front I think you have to use a coil-over setup.

[20gtvert03]

Originally Posted by 97S281 If you are going to lower it you may want to use adjustable uppers. You can reset your pinion angle with them as it will get off when you drop it. I went with adjustable upper and lowers in the rear as I have a big drop and it was necessary to straighten out the rear suspension. I was popping u-joints about every three months due to my pinion angle being so far off.

I well get adjustables then, you know any good ones, I want some for street use. not track

Originally Posted by 97S281 also, if you go tubular in the front I think you have to use a coil-over setup.

ill have to research this more maybe i well skip the damn k-member then

[97S281]

I used CHE and have had no problems. they have been on the car for about 18 months now. I think S197performance.com has them on special right now. They are an authorized vendor. I am not sure if they offer a discount for members. Tell them I sent ya!!!

[97S281]

talk to (mustang fanatic). I think he runs the s197 site.
Don't forget to let him know i sent ya to him.

[20gtvert03]

Originally Posted by 97S281 talk to (mustang fanatic). I think he runs the s197 site. Don't forget to let him know i sent ya to him.

well do thanks

[gray8188]

Originally Posted by 20gtvert03 I well get adjustables then, you know any good ones, I want some for street use. not track ill have to research this more maybe i well skip the damn k-member then

y would you want to skip the k member because of coil overs.. and i second on the che control arms i have friends with them and they love them its what i am about to order..

[20gtvert03]

Originally Posted by gray8188 y would you want to skip the k member because of coil overs.. and i second on the che control arms i have friends with them and they love them its what i am about to order..

What do you mean che control arms, And i just simply dont want coil-overs

[the real shocker]

I had the UPR adjustable uppers & lower, and they were great quality pieces and were one of the cheapest I found...

MUSTANG-UPR Products.com
MUSTANG-UPR Products.com

and you will need stiff springs for the front going with the QA1 tubular K... my buddy had the FR B springs on his cobra and put the k member on and it put the nose on the ground!

[gray8188]

Originally Posted by 20gtvert03 What do you mean che control arms, And i just simply dont want coil-overs

rear upper and lower control arms and che is the company name

[Trick Tuners]

If you are doing the k member you might as well do the entire front end with coilovers too. I a few weeks i'll be doing a right up of the full maximum grip package.

[20gtvert03]

Do i need adjustable control arms, what is the benefit from non-adjustable, im starting to lean toward upr and steeda

[the real shocker]

Originally Posted by 20gtvert03 Do i need adjustable control arms, what is the benefit from non-adjustable, im starting to lean toward upr and steeda

adjustable uppers allow you to twist the rear-end up or down, changing the degree of the pinion angle... allowing it to plant more power to the ground

adjustable lowers move the position of the wheel forward to back in the wheel well... you could get away with doing solid lowers & adjustable uppers

btw, wolfe racecraft has a great write up on setting the pinion angle too... we had mine somewhere around -2.5 to -3 degrees

[20gtvert03]

Originally Posted by the real shocker adjustable uppers allow you to twist the rear-end up or down, changing the degree of the pinion angle... allowing it to plant more power to the ground adjustable lowers move the position of the wheel forward to back in the wheel well... you could get away with doing solid lowers & adjustable uppers btw, wolfe racecraft has a great write up on setting the pinion angle too... we had mine somewhere around -2.5 to -3 degrees

thats what ive been trying to find out, alright then i guess ill look around for what works for me, one more question though, im doing all the suspension install at home, except for the cc plates, so is their anything special im gonna need to do to get the pinion angle right? reps for sure

[the real shocker]

the uppers can be a pain in the ass to get out, but nothing more than basic tools to do the swap (impact wrench will make your life much easier!)... and patience

[ModMustang97GT]

If you are going to get new control arms in the front' You should get the coilovers and a new K-member. Most tubular K members or A arms don't let you keep your modified macpherson strut anyway. Coilovers are better. Lighter and work better. What more could you want?

And lets get serious here, it sounds like you want to take your suspension pretty far. I'm not sure what kind of driving you are looking to do, but you are going to have a lot of power and there are several issues with our car's that prevent you from utilizing much more than stock power. You have axle wind up, disproportionate ride quality to handling, poor body rigidity and bad wheel hop under heavy cornering. All of these things can be remedied fairly simply, and cheaply. And if you can weld, you can do every bit of it your self. I will write up a suspension bible here soon. Too many uniformed people.

To fix your chassis, you need a cage and/or atleast subframe connectors. And possibly sway bars, but if you do coilovers you want to keep your stock ones.

To fix the dissproportion ride quality to handling you need coilovers front and possibly rear, depending on how far you want to go. Coilover kits are available for around $200 if you know where to look.

The Wheel bind can be fixed with a panhard bar or watt's link. This doesn't really matter unless you are planning to be doing some road course or hard turning. You won't need this for drag, and probably don't want it if your plan is to be a 1/4 only car.

For the axle wind up you have a few options. You can get new control arms and that helps alot but real issue is the design is flawed. The 4 link design that came on our cars from the factory is designed for old women and stupid kids. It doesn't do anything well at the limits. The design lets the axle start to spin around it self when you floor it, obviously this makes it coil and release, resulting in wheel hop. The same hapens under hard turning. It flexes untill it binds and then releases making your wheels hop. You can help these with new control arms, but the control arms can hurt as much as they help. Poorly designed ones will cause damage to your torque boxes under heavy turning. They weren't designed, for taking that kind of load. The fix for the turning I have already explained above. The axle wind up can be truly fixed only with a 5 link from steeda. An OK set up, or getting a torque arm. A torque arm is like a 3rd lower control arm, but it bolts to the differential casing preventing it from winding up. The pivoting end gets welded to your subframe connectors in the middle of your car, a good 2 feet ahead of your control arms. This makes your energy more direct to the center of gravity and makes heavy braking safer. The torque arm and panhard bar is the premier suspension setup for any high end solid axle car. I advise doing more research if this interests you on Maximum Motorsports web site or at www.griggs-racing.com

[20gtvert03]

Originally Posted by ModMustang97GT If you are going to get new control arms in the front' You should get the coilovers and a new K-member. Most tubular K members or A arms don't let you keep your modified macpherson strut anyway. Coilovers are better. Lighter and work better. What more could you want? And lets get serious here, it sounds like you want to take your suspension pretty far. I'm not sure what kind of driving you are looking to do, but you are going to have a lot of power and there are several issues with our car's that prevent you from utilizing much more than stock power. You have axle wind up, disproportionate ride quality to handling, poor body rigidity and bad wheel hop under heavy cornering. All of these things can be remedied fairly simply, and cheaply. And if you can weld, you can do every bit of it your self. I will write up a suspension bible here soon. Too many uniformed people. To fix your chassis, you need a cage and/or atleast subframe connectors. And possibly sway bars, but if you do coilovers you want to keep your stock ones. To fix the dissproportion ride quality to handling you need coilovers front and possibly rear, depending on how far you want to go. Coilover kits are available for around $200 if you know where to look. The Wheel bind can be fixed with a panhard bar or watt's link. This doesn't really matter unless you are planning to be doing some road course or hard turning. You won't need this for drag, and probably don't want it if your plan is to be a 1/4 only car. For the axle wind up you have a few options. You can get new control arms and that helps alot but real issue is the design is flawed. The 4 link design that came on our cars from the factory is designed for old women and stupid kids. It doesn't do anything well at the limits. The design lets the axle start to spin around it self when you floor it, obviously this makes it coil and release, resulting in wheel hop. The same hapens under hard turning. It flexes untill it binds and then releases making your wheels hop. You can help these with new control arms, but the control arms can hurt as much as they help. Poorly designed ones will cause damage to your torque boxes under heavy turning. They weren't designed, for taking that kind of load. The fix for the turning I have already explained above. The axle wind up can be truly fixed only with a 5 link from steeda. An OK set up, or getting a torque arm. A torque arm is like a 3rd lower control arm, but it bolts to the differential casing preventing it from winding up. The pivoting end gets welded to your subframe connectors in the middle of your car, a good 2 feet ahead of your control arms. This makes your energy more direct to the center of gravity and makes heavy braking safer. The torque arm and panhard bar is the premier suspension setup for any high end solid axle car. I advise doing more research if this interests you on Maximum Motorsports web site or at www.griggs-racing.com

Damn now im really excited to order more suspension goodys, im deffinitly gonna put the install on hold until i get all these new parts panhard and such.

But yea i just want a fun handling car that i can take to the local autoX track sometime. No 1/4 mile for me. Do you think DRs help or hurt the handeling, cause i hate having DRs, no fun and fast wear