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#1 |
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Regular
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how do i bleed the brakes?
how is the processes of bleeding the brakes for my 01 gt. i think i got air in my lines cuz the car wont brake now. i really need help!
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#2 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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First check youre master cyliinder to make sure you have fluid and make sure all the pads are ok. Typically if the pads are low the fluid will be too. But if you really wanna bleed them just make sure you have plenty of fluid handy and a partner.
remove the wheels and put it on jackstands or a lift if you can acces one. Then with the key off push the pedal slowly until it builds up and is hard. Now keep pushing on the pedal to the floor and have someone crack the right rear, then if air comes out repeat. If no air comes out, close the bleeder and pump the brakes back up. and then hold again and do the same left rear, right front and left front. If you still have air in then its in the ABS module, or you have a broken line ( no fluid would indicate ) or a bad mastercylinder. Good luck
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91 LX, 5spd. Ex:Toyota/Ford tech Marine Machinery Technician, Department of Defense.
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#3 |
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Regular
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i was changing the springs and had to unplug the brake lines to get to the springs
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![]() HP 401 TQ 380 | Vortech V-2 SQ Intercooled | 410 Gears |Accufab 75mm TB | UPR O/R X Pipe | Flowmaster 40s Eibach Sportline Springs | Steeda U&L Rear Arms | Subframe Connectors | Steeda Sport Shifter |
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#4 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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are you kidding ?
Sorry. Im not sure what you mean.... youre remove the brake line from the caliper.... then drove it like that!!!!!!! you deff have some serious air in youre brakes then. If you just got in it and noticed low brake pedal then just bleed the lines youre disconnected.
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91 LX, 5spd. Ex:Toyota/Ford tech Marine Machinery Technician, Department of Defense.
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#5 |
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Regular
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nooooo ahahhaha i pluged them back in and put the tires back on and all that stuff.
__________________
![]() HP 401 TQ 380 | Vortech V-2 SQ Intercooled | 410 Gears |Accufab 75mm TB | UPR O/R X Pipe | Flowmaster 40s Eibach Sportline Springs | Steeda U&L Rear Arms | Subframe Connectors | Steeda Sport Shifter |
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#6 |
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Regular
2004 Mustang GT
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 73
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Follow Casper's instructions, start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder (Right Rear), then do the other side then move to the front right side. You can also gravity bleed them if you don't have a helper, not as efficient but it'll work in a pinch. To gravity bleed just fill the master cylinder with fluid, leave the cover off the master and crack the bleeder screws and let the car sit for about an hour, make sure the master doesn't run out of fluid. When you are done tighten the bleeders down and check the brake pedal firmness. Do not touch the brake pedal with the bleeders open!
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2004 Mustang GT, 5SPD, Black/Black, Steeda Tri-Ax, Steeda CAI, 3.73 Motive gears |
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#7 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2001 YUGO GT
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: GOAT LOCKER PENSACOLA FL
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Sears makes a fine tool that allows just one person to bleed the brakes, cost is aboutt 30 bucks well worth it , and don't for get to start with the master cilinder, there are two bleeder valves on it than the farest wheel. W.P.
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How I met my wife! Our first date...
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#8 |
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Regular
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went out today and tried it out. its all good now. thanx for the help guys.
__________________
![]() HP 401 TQ 380 | Vortech V-2 SQ Intercooled | 410 Gears |Accufab 75mm TB | UPR O/R X Pipe | Flowmaster 40s Eibach Sportline Springs | Steeda U&L Rear Arms | Subframe Connectors | Steeda Sport Shifter |
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