[BLK01SS]

Alright i tried doing a frekkin search but didn't really get the answers i wanted. So, what does the install consist of doing. Will I need anything else for the install. What are all of the advantages.

[SWEET2KSTANG]

you going to run a coil over kit or just the k-member?

[marcd]

ive been debaiting getting one in my head for a long time. i need somthing to convince me to spend the money

[AggieStang]

Originally Posted by marcd ive been debaiting getting one in my head for a long time. i need somthing to convince me to spend the money

+1

[uprpat]

improvements will include- stronger lighter component, more header clearance, more oil pan clearance. Depending on which style k-member kit you go with, some make you convert to a coil-over set-up, and when converting to a coil-over set-up, you have to use caster camber plates to re-enforce the strut tower as well as allowing full adjustment of caster/camber. When changing geometry of the suspension, a bumpsteer kit is a huge help. This will allow for the steering rack and a arms to follow the same angle throughout the whole range of motion of the car.


Pat
UPR

[SWEET2KSTANG]

i have a qa1 on mine, i am glad i did mine. especially with dealing with the headers, it helps a lot!

[AggieStang]

Sounds like a hell of a lot of work.

[PapaSmurf]

I cant wait to buy my racecraft k member and coilover suspension

[marcd]

whats one you can do without changing to a coil over?

[PapaSmurf]

Originally Posted by marcd whats one you can do without changing to a coil over?

qa1

[SWEET2KSTANG]

usually all the kits will be able to run the stock a-arms, just some done offer that option. you would have to get spring perches to run stock a-arms and springs. any of the perches should work, the k-member and perches only bolt up in one place.

[marcd]

is it true that the qa1 moves the engine up or you have to re drill some mounting holes

[BLK01SS]

Well I have a friend sellin one for $100. Its a full kit and it a granitelli type. I would like to use just the k-member for now. So will this be ok or look for another one. and do you still have to take it back off for the headers or can you wiggle it in there.

[Ugmul]

I looked long and hard at Tubular K-members, for the best set up you would get your new k, tubluar a frames, coil over kit(new sprins and shocks inculded), and caster camber plates, sure the bumpster kit would help too. All that will reduce weight, better cornering and turns. And you could remove your oil pan w/o droping your transmission.

Installation is really easy, hardest part would be getting old K-member down by yourself, having a buddy its really easy. I really wanted to do this for a long time. But . . All I can say for me as a DD and fun here and there at the track. It wasnt worth my money to put into it. If your out there doing races and street races where you need to take that 90degree turn at 50mph and dont want to break your car Go for it.

Or you got 1200bucks to drop on front suspension for fun id do it. I love the look and flexability you get with the tublar's. Would love it for my car, but Im not rich.

[BLK01SS]

Ok well I don't plan on taking 90 degree turn at 50mph and its only $100 and itsthe k-member and all hardware, now little by little I would get tubular a-arms and coil overs but they won't be put on at the same time as the k-member. So is it ok to do that or just wait to buy the right stuff?? And Im not rich either Im on a budget thats why everything I buy is used lol.

[Ugmul]

Id make sure to do a lot of reasearch on the kit. Been awhile but most of the tubular K that I remember looking at required certain things that wasnt stock. Thought its been 6months since ive looked at them. If it as full kit though and uses the stock arms I say go for it then

[BLK01SS]

Thats what I'm doing, I'm trying to see if its worth it or not.

[Jazzer The Cat]

A tubular "K" is an awesome thing, but something not mentioned above is the vulnerability of the oil pan once installed.

The new "K" now passes "inbetween" the front of the oil pan and behind the harmonic balancer. This leaves the pan 100% open to damage from road debris and such. My original pan had some pretty good scratches and a nice scar. I had a Canton 8 quarter installed with a steel reinforcing pan underneath and that has some nice scratches and a good little scar.

If your car is low and mine is VERY low, you need to strongly consider the same pan, IMO.

Jazzer

[Randy Stinchcomb]

my$.02;
watch which ones you buy, gms is about the worst one out there, steer clear of any of gms suspension components

now some "K" members are made from mild steel while some are made from Chrome-Moly, mild steel is best for street n' strip.....new mounting hardware is almost a Must if you change one out, esp the nut bracket at the rear of the "K" member and they aint cheap either....

I have the AJE c/m "K" member and tubular "A" arms on mine wth Coil Overs and it fit just fine and works great

[SWEET2KSTANG]

Originally Posted by Randy Stinchcomb my$.02; watch which ones you buy, gms is about the worst one out there, steer clear of any of gms suspension components

there is nothing wrong with their stuff, i run a few things they have to offer for the new edge cars. i have used their stuff on f-body cars for a while as well. their k-member is reinforced with gussets, mild steel, tig welded, and is more set up for street/strip apps. i will eventually get rid of my qa1 and install their kit, its a lot better set up (imo) for the street than my qa1. it is a little heavier than my qa1, but not too big of a deal to me.