A/C delete not needed!!!

Novanutcase · November 28th, 2008, 11:19 PM

The A/C delete dumb pulley has always bothered me. The plastic pulley just didn't look right to me under there. I'm sure it would stand the test of time but it still just bothered me everytime I opened my hood. Someone on another site had posted how they had bypassed their A/C delete so I decided to try it:

Before

After

The Offending Pulleys

What I used to do the mod

Basically, you use a 6 rib V6 pulley and a 70.5 inch long belt. I bought the 6 rib V6 pulley at my local Autozone and the belt I had bought a while back from Summit but never had gotten around to doing the mod. I'm sure any Autozone/O'Reilly's will have it.

It was fairly easy. Take your rachet and connect it to the square in the idler arm. Pull it to your right and pull off the stock belt. Unscrew the idler from the cover. Flip the idler around and you'll see the bolt that holds down the pulley. Unscrew it and take off the pulley. Take a 5/8" or 3/4" thin washer and slip it over the post where the pulley came off. Install the V6 pulley and screw it back on. Make sure that the washer you use doesn't touch the outer steel ring in the bearing. When you tighten it up it'll clamp down on the washer and the V6 pulley won't spin. Tighten down the pulley and check to make sure the pulley spins freely. Take another thin washer(I used another 5/8" one since that was all I had laying around. You may want to take the bolt that bolts the idler to the cover to get the correct sized washer. Just make sure it is a thin one) and use it to space the idler arm out from the cover or else the V6 pulley will rub on the cover. Run the belt the way it is in the after picture(Or look below for a front view). The easiest way is to start with the belt around the idler and start threading it from there. You'll probably get to the crank pulley and not have enough slack to get it around. Take your rachet and put it back in the square hole in the idler and pull the idler to your right while simultaneously wrapping the belt on the crank pulley. Once you have it on just make sure everything lines up and that the idler bolt is tight. Start her up and make sure the belt doesn't come off by revving it to red line a few times. After that you can remove all the other pulleys if you want or you can leave them on. I took mine off and it really uncluttered that part of the engine.

I didn't really notice any power boost, per se, but the engine seemed a little more peppy and throttle response was a little more crisp. I'm sure there was some sort of HP gain through less parasitic loss but not really noticeable SOP.

Front view of belt routing

John

moosenuk17 · November 28th, 2008, 11:44 PM

wow, that looks great, nice write up

RyanGT · November 29th, 2008, 07:50 AM

I like the write up and pics! very nice. I might try this out some time. What was the size belt you had before and after? Cause i have a little different supercharger setup, so would need the belt difference of my size. And an 8 ribbed pulley for tensioner. Mine is a little out of place (was actually not lined up) and still is but i was able to grind it down to make it so it wouldnt chew up belts (lined up but barely).

I see the after belt was 70.5 inch, what was the before?

Novanutcase · November 29th, 2008, 11:59 AM

Originally Posted by RyanGT

I like the write up and pics! very nice. I might try this out some time. What was the size belt you had before and after? Cause i have a little different supercharger setup, so would need the belt difference of my size. And an 8 ribbed pulley for tensioner. Mine is a little out of place (was actually not lined up) and still is but i was able to grind it down to make it so it wouldnt chew up belts (lined up but barely).

I see the after belt was 70.5 inch, what was the before?

I had the stock belt before so what I would do is take the difference between the stock size and the 70.5 and reduce the same amount from the belt you have now.

How do you have your pulley setup now? Is it all 8 rib or just the one on the blower? If so what rib# belt are you running?

John

RyanGT · November 29th, 2008, 07:35 PM

8 rib on all pulleys. And i run a 108.5 belt. I havent had a stock belt in a long ass time so no idea what the size is.

What is with the ribs on the tensioner? Just to keep it from jumping too much since there are less pulleys to keep it on track?

Novanutcase · November 29th, 2008, 08:04 PM

Originally Posted by RyanGT

8 rib on all pulleys. And i run a 108.5 belt. I havent had a stock belt in a long ass time so no idea what the size is.

What is with the ribs on the tensioner? Just to keep it from jumping too much since there are less pulleys to keep it on track?

Yeah! I was worried that it might come off so better safe than sorry but I'm pretty sure if you're just DD it and not open tracking, like I do, or dragging the car it would be OK to go with a smooth idler. Besides, the way the belt wraps around the idler in this configuration the ribs are on the inside and not on the outside like stock.
Do they make an 8 rib idler wheel that is the same width as the stock one?

John

RyanGT · November 29th, 2008, 08:24 PM

I have no idea, thats the downside for an 8 rib setup i guess!

97Cobra · November 29th, 2008, 08:29 PM

NICE write up!

Novanutcase · November 29th, 2008, 08:30 PM

Might want to check out March?

John

Novanutcase · November 29th, 2008, 08:36 PM

Originally Posted by 97Cobra

NICE write up!

Thanks! I was cruising around today and the car felt.....goosier(Is that a word!

). Just really peppy. I could of sworn that it added a few HP's but don't quote me on it!

I noticed that UPR has a "Short Belt Kit" that does the same thing for $149.00!

This cost me $40 tops! They are supposed to be coming out with a billet idler for just this type of conversion but only have it for 87-93. I can't wait to see what it looks like. If it's cool I just may swap out the V6 one.

John

bullitt5576 · November 29th, 2008, 08:37 PM

how long did it take you to do?

how much was the idler?

i might do this since i never use the A/C

97Cobra · November 29th, 2008, 08:47 PM

Originally Posted by Novanutcase

Thanks! I was cruising around today and the car felt.....goosier(Is that a word!). Just really peppy. I could of sworn that it added a few HP's but don't quote me on it!

I noticed that UPR has a "Short Belt Kit" that does the same thing for $149.00! This cost me $40 tops! They are supposed to be coming out with a billet idler for just this type of conversion but only have it for 87-93. I can't wait to see what it looks like. If it's cool I just may swap out the V6 one.

John

eh even when the A/C is on it only takes bout 8hp to run it. but if you dont use or need it it frees up the extra hp neways.

Novanutcase · November 29th, 2008, 08:55 PM

You use your same idler but you just take off the smooth pulley and use the V6 6 groove pulley. It may work with a smooth pulley but the way the belt wraps the ribbed side will be pulling around a smooth face pulley. I used the ribbed one just to make sure it doesn't slip off since the ribbed one has little side skirts to keep the belt from wandering.
Just make sure you use a 5/8"(or 3/4" depending on how thick the pulley post is) THIN washer. If you use a normal washer it may push the pulley out to far and it will rub against the timing cover. You'll need to get the same thin washer but with a smaller hole circumference the same as the bolt that you use to bolt in the idler to the cover. I used a 5/8" because that's all I had laying around since I was a bonehead and didn't think about spacing the idler.

John

superbeef1000 · November 30th, 2008, 01:13 PM

thats some good info yo!! this should be a sticky in the how to section

BlckBullitt01 · November 30th, 2008, 02:07 PM

It didn't look like you mentioned it anywhere in your post. Did you rip out the entire ac system or are you just bypassing it for now? I'm considering doing an a/c delete as people claim close to an 80 lb weight loss (removing everything, behind the dash, etc.)

moosenuk17 · November 30th, 2008, 02:50 PM

since this is a pullie thread i got a pullie question...
can you put underdrive pullies on with a supercharger?

RyanGT · November 30th, 2008, 04:44 PM

no. It reduces the boost (cause of the crank pulley size).

moosenuk17 · November 30th, 2008, 05:11 PM

thanks

Novanutcase · November 30th, 2008, 05:41 PM

Originally Posted by BlckBullitt01

It didn't look like you mentioned it anywhere in your post. Did you rip out the entire ac system or are you just bypassing it for now? I'm considering doing an a/c delete as people claim close to an 80 lb weight loss (removing everything, behind the dash, etc.)

No, I decided to leave the inside unit and keep the heater for now although I'll probably rip that out to and replace it with an aftermarket heater. I just removed the A/C compressor since it locked up on me. When I bought the car the A/C wasn't working anyways so, like I said, I'll probably rip it all out eventually.

John

bullitt5576 · November 30th, 2008, 06:04 PM

all in all this took me and one friend about twenty minutes to do

November 28th, 2008, 11:19 PM	#1
Novanutcase Hardcore Enthusiast 2003 GT Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Los Angeles, California Posts: 1,089 iTrader: 0 reviews	A/C delete not needed!!! The A/C delete dumb pulley has always bothered me. The plastic pulley just didn't look right to me under there. I'm sure it would stand the test of time but it still just bothered me everytime I opened my hood. Someone on another site had posted how they had bypassed their A/C delete so I decided to try it: Before After The Offending Pulleys What I used to do the mod Basically, you use a 6 rib V6 pulley and a 70.5 inch long belt. I bought the 6 rib V6 pulley at my local Autozone and the belt I had bought a while back from Summit but never had gotten around to doing the mod. I'm sure any Autozone/O'Reilly's will have it. It was fairly easy. Take your rachet and connect it to the square in the idler arm. Pull it to your right and pull off the stock belt. Unscrew the idler from the cover. Flip the idler around and you'll see the bolt that holds down the pulley. Unscrew it and take off the pulley. Take a 5/8" or 3/4" thin washer and slip it over the post where the pulley came off. Install the V6 pulley and screw it back on. Make sure that the washer you use doesn't touch the outer steel ring in the bearing. When you tighten it up it'll clamp down on the washer and the V6 pulley won't spin. Tighten down the pulley and check to make sure the pulley spins freely. Take another thin washer(I used another 5/8" one since that was all I had laying around. You may want to take the bolt that bolts the idler to the cover to get the correct sized washer. Just make sure it is a thin one) and use it to space the idler arm out from the cover or else the V6 pulley will rub on the cover. Run the belt the way it is in the after picture(Or look below for a front view). The easiest way is to start with the belt around the idler and start threading it from there. You'll probably get to the crank pulley and not have enough slack to get it around. Take your rachet and put it back in the square hole in the idler and pull the idler to your right while simultaneously wrapping the belt on the crank pulley. Once you have it on just make sure everything lines up and that the idler bolt is tight. Start her up and make sure the belt doesn't come off by revving it to red line a few times. After that you can remove all the other pulleys if you want or you can leave them on. I took mine off and it really uncluttered that part of the engine. I didn't really notice any power boost, per se, but the engine seemed a little more peppy and throttle response was a little more crisp. I'm sure there was some sort of HP gain through less parasitic loss but not really noticeable SOP. Front view of belt routing John __________________ SOLD - '03 GT, Max Moto Max Grip Box, Wilwood SL 6 front/DL4 rear Big Brake Kit, Corbeau Seats, MGW Short Shifter, MAC Long Tube Headers/Prochamber mid/ Flowmaster 40, FRPP 4.10, TrickFlow Diff Cover/75mm TB/Plenum, Eaton Posi, Moser 31 spl Axles Last edited by Novanutcase; November 29th, 2008 at 12:12 AM.

November 28th, 2008, 11:44 PM	#2
moosenuk17 MM Fanatic 2000 ford mustang GT Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: san diego CA Posts: 4,011 iTrader: 0 reviews	wow, that looks great, nice write up __________________ 2000 kenne bell GT (440HP-432TQ) Tuned by Joe at http://www.tricktuners.com dyno vid:http://youtu.be/lr3xpxw2_v8 2011 escape MUSTANG TAT CREW

November 29th, 2008, 07:50 AM	#3
RyanGT MM Fanatic 2000 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lynnwood, Washington Posts: 4,258 iTrader: 4 reviews	I like the write up and pics! very nice. I might try this out some time. What was the size belt you had before and after? Cause i have a little different supercharger setup, so would need the belt difference of my size. And an 8 ribbed pulley for tensioner. Mine is a little out of place (was actually not lined up) and still is but i was able to grind it down to make it so it wouldnt chew up belts (lined up but barely). I see the after belt was 70.5 inch, what was the before? __________________ 2000 Black convertible GT: KB 15psi, and other goodies... 1971 Datsun 240 z: Header and rebuilt motor. (The DD)

November 29th, 2008, 07:35 PM	#5
RyanGT MM Fanatic 2000 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lynnwood, Washington Posts: 4,258 iTrader: 4 reviews	8 rib on all pulleys. And i run a 108.5 belt. I havent had a stock belt in a long ass time so no idea what the size is. What is with the ribs on the tensioner? Just to keep it from jumping too much since there are less pulleys to keep it on track? __________________ 2000 Black convertible GT: KB 15psi, and other goodies... 1971 Datsun 240 z: Header and rebuilt motor. (The DD)

November 29th, 2008, 08:24 PM	#7
RyanGT MM Fanatic 2000 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lynnwood, Washington Posts: 4,258 iTrader: 4 reviews	I have no idea, thats the downside for an 8 rib setup i guess! __________________ 2000 Black convertible GT: KB 15psi, and other goodies... 1971 Datsun 240 z: Header and rebuilt motor. (The DD)

November 29th, 2008, 08:29 PM	#8
97Cobra I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1997 Mustang Cobra 1/8 - 8.89@86mph Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 6,521 iTrader: 1 reviews	NICE write up! __________________ Modifications and pics in my Garage... Reps Appreciated!

November 29th, 2008, 08:30 PM	#9
Novanutcase Hardcore Enthusiast 2003 GT Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Los Angeles, California Posts: 1,089 iTrader: 0 reviews	Might want to check out March? John __________________ SOLD - '03 GT, Max Moto Max Grip Box, Wilwood SL 6 front/DL4 rear Big Brake Kit, Corbeau Seats, MGW Short Shifter, MAC Long Tube Headers/Prochamber mid/ Flowmaster 40, FRPP 4.10, TrickFlow Diff Cover/75mm TB/Plenum, Eaton Posi, Moser 31 spl Axles

November 29th, 2008, 08:37 PM	#11
bullitt5576 Regular 2001 Bullitt Join Date: May 2008 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 414 iTrader: 0 reviews	how long did it take you to do? how much was the idler? i might do this since i never use the A/C __________________ MM NEW EDGE COBRA CREW #2

November 29th, 2008, 08:55 PM	#13
Novanutcase Hardcore Enthusiast 2003 GT Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Los Angeles, California Posts: 1,089 iTrader: 0 reviews	You use your same idler but you just take off the smooth pulley and use the V6 6 groove pulley. It may work with a smooth pulley but the way the belt wraps the ribbed side will be pulling around a smooth face pulley. I used the ribbed one just to make sure it doesn't slip off since the ribbed one has little side skirts to keep the belt from wandering. Just make sure you use a 5/8"(or 3/4" depending on how thick the pulley post is) THIN washer. If you use a normal washer it may push the pulley out to far and it will rub against the timing cover. You'll need to get the same thin washer but with a smaller hole circumference the same as the bolt that you use to bolt in the idler to the cover. I used a 5/8" because that's all I had laying around since I was a bonehead and didn't think about spacing the idler. John __________________ SOLD - '03 GT, Max Moto Max Grip Box, Wilwood SL 6 front/DL4 rear Big Brake Kit, Corbeau Seats, MGW Short Shifter, MAC Long Tube Headers/Prochamber mid/ Flowmaster 40, FRPP 4.10, TrickFlow Diff Cover/75mm TB/Plenum, Eaton Posi, Moser 31 spl Axles

November 30th, 2008, 01:13 PM	#14
superbeef1000 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: mesa , arizona Posts: 1,474 iTrader: 2 reviews	thats some good info yo!! this should be a sticky in the how to section __________________ a bunch of stuff to make my car faster http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...e-member-1497/

November 30th, 2008, 02:07 PM	#15
BlckBullitt01 Regular TT Bullitt Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 263 iTrader: 2 reviews	It didn't look like you mentioned it anywhere in your post. Did you rip out the entire ac system or are you just bypassing it for now? I'm considering doing an a/c delete as people claim close to an 80 lb weight loss (removing everything, behind the dash, etc.)

November 30th, 2008, 02:50 PM	#16
moosenuk17 MM Fanatic 2000 ford mustang GT Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: san diego CA Posts: 4,011 iTrader: 0 reviews	since this is a pullie thread i got a pullie question... can you put underdrive pullies on with a supercharger? __________________ 2000 kenne bell GT (440HP-432TQ) Tuned by Joe at http://www.tricktuners.com dyno vid:http://youtu.be/lr3xpxw2_v8 2011 escape MUSTANG TAT CREW

November 30th, 2008, 04:44 PM	#17
RyanGT MM Fanatic 2000 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lynnwood, Washington Posts: 4,258 iTrader: 4 reviews	no. It reduces the boost (cause of the crank pulley size). __________________ 2000 Black convertible GT: KB 15psi, and other goodies... 1971 Datsun 240 z: Header and rebuilt motor. (The DD)

November 30th, 2008, 05:11 PM	#18
moosenuk17 MM Fanatic 2000 ford mustang GT Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: san diego CA Posts: 4,011 iTrader: 0 reviews	thanks __________________ 2000 kenne bell GT (440HP-432TQ) Tuned by Joe at http://www.tricktuners.com dyno vid:http://youtu.be/lr3xpxw2_v8 2011 escape MUSTANG TAT CREW

November 30th, 2008, 06:04 PM	#20
bullitt5576 Regular 2001 Bullitt Join Date: May 2008 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 414 iTrader: 0 reviews	all in all this took me and one friend about twenty minutes to do __________________ MM NEW EDGE COBRA CREW #2

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