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Discussing Contour Woes... in the All Other Vehicles Forum. On the 99 contour se v-6 auto. I was told yesterday the oil pan ...

       

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Old March 24th, 2006, 08:40 AM   #1
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Contour Woes...


On the 99 contour se v-6 auto. I was told yesterday the oil pan gasket is toast. We found out the warranty has recently expired. The car is not driveable as the smell of the syn. oil that is burning off is too intense. THis started tuesday and the dealer had it 'til yesterday. They are saying that the cost is going to start at a min. of eight fifty but likely reach well above the 1g mark. I haven't looked at it yet but am wondering how difficult this gasket is going to be to replace. The dealers' tech.startedout by mentioning the engine has to come out first. Crap! I am still concerned that this happened all of a sudden and without any warning or indication. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.


John
 
Old March 24th, 2006, 08:58 AM   #2
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I seriously doubt the engiine has to come out, maybe the mounts have to be taken off and the engine lifted some for clearance... but removing it alltogether? I just don't see that being feasable. But, you never know. I'd most certainly contact another repair shop and ask them for an estimate.
 
Old March 24th, 2006, 10:12 AM   #3
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Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the water pump pulley shield.

Install engine support device to the engine lifting eyes and support the engine.

Raise and safely support the vehicle.

Remove the exhaust crossover and the exhaust retaining bracket located on the right side of the oil pan.

Remove the exhaust heat shield retaining nuts and the exhaust heat shields from the left side of the oil pan.

Drain the engine oil.

Reinstall the oil pan drain plug using a new gasket and tighten to 16–22 ft. lbs. (22–30 Nm).

Remove the oil pan retaining bolts from the transaxle housing.
If equipped with automatic transaxle, remove the access plug from the engine rear plate.

Remove the through-bolt for the left and right front engine support insulators.

Partially lower the vehicle on the hoist.
NOTE: Mark the location of the upper front engine support bracket before it is removed.

Remove the upper front engine support bracket retaining nuts and remove the upper front engine support bracket.

Using the three bar engine support or equivalent, raise the engine to allow room for removal of the engine oil pan.

Raise and safely support the vehicle.

Remove the oil pan retaining bolts and studs from the lower cylinder block following the bolt removal sequence.

Remove the oil pan and the oil pan gasket from the vehicle.

To install:

Clean the oil pan to lower cylinder block gasket sealing surfaces.

Thoroughly clean the oil pan.

Install a new oil pan gasket into the groove of the oil pan.

Apply a bead of silicone sealer to the gasket area where the pan meets the parting lines of the lower cylinder block and the front engine cover.

Carefully install the oil pan with gasket to the lower cylinder block.

Reinstall the bolts and studs but do not tighten.

Push the oil pan against the transaxle case and tighten the oil pan bolts and studs.

Reinstall the oil pan to transaxle case bolts and tighten to 25–34 ft. lbs. (34–46 Nm).

Tighten the oil pan bolts and studs in the proper sequence to 15–22 ft. lbs. (20–30 Nm).

If equipped with automatic transaxle, install the access plug into the engine rear plate.

Lower the vehicle but keep it on the hoist.

Using the three bar engine support or equivalent, lower the engine into its proper position.

Reinstall the upper front engine support bracket and its retaining nuts onto the upper front engine support insulator.

Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Reinstall the through-bolts for the left and right front engine support insulators.

Reinstall the exhaust crossover, exhaust retaining bracket and heat shield.

Replace the engine oil filter.

Lower the vehicle.

Remove the three bar engine support or equivalent.

Fill the crankcase with the correct amount and grade of engine oil.

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Run the engine and check for leaks and proper operation.
 
Old March 24th, 2006, 04:03 PM   #4
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...


Thanks for the info. I am going totry to check it out this weekend but now found I gotta goto N.C. sat. That is a bunch of instructions. I only hope I can do it with the limited amount of tools and a greatly diminished brain cell count. I got to do something soon though, been out as a chauffer for the wife and it is getting very old very quick. I did pick up new wires for the gt though.

john
 
Old March 24th, 2006, 05:11 PM   #5
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which dealer????
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Old March 24th, 2006, 05:41 PM   #6
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dealer


Was at Kimnach.

john
 
Old March 25th, 2006, 12:26 PM   #7
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Re: dealer


Originally Posted by WVSNS&
Was at Kimnach.

john
doesn't surprise me. The pans can be done in the car but nothing on a Conturd is as easy as it should be. If you have any qustions or need any help let me know.
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Old April 10th, 2006, 03:35 PM   #8
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I can assure you the motor will not need to come out...BUt it has been known to happen that way. Some people prefer doing it this way. I just yank the exhuats ( pain in the ass ) and do it that way. MUCH easier on the 24V taurus than a 24v contour.
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