[707Stang]

I just got one and need to learn a lot more about it. so if you can "school" me on my 86 n/a 5spd i'd really appreciate it.

[Flynnster]

pics?

[707Stang]

[drazga97]

cool little cars i like the 3rd gens alot.
rotarys ftl though.

[707Stang]

Originally Posted by drazga97 cool little cars i like the 3rd gens alot. rotarys ftl though.

ftl? why?

[Enzo_Guy]

Originally Posted by 707Stang ftl? why?

Unreliable design. The N/A ones are fine, but once you throw on a turbo or two they become unstable. The spinning rotors have a weak link called apex seals, which under high boost like to break off and destroy lots of stuff.

The single best mod you can do to an N/A RX-7 is installing an "American 8-cylinder performance system". Small block Chevys and LSx blocks usually fit best (Fords can be tricky with the front distributor).

[HMUSN]

^ agreed.

LS swap's are cool in those cars.
http://pix.motivatedphotos.com/2008/...ary-engine.jpg

[USMC8511]

but those rotary motors sure can turn up the RPM's...

HowStuffWorks "How Rotary Engines Work"


MAZDATRIX for Mazda RX7, RX8, Rotary Engine Parts and Accessories


Wankel engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Just some links that might give some insight

[AzSonicSnake]

they are a blast to drive! but get use to no torque. and premixing your fuel, as a rotary burns oil along with gas. they need to have oil mixed in the gas to lubricate the apex seals. and thats normally your limiting factor to power is apex seals. rotarys require thier own special care, and i really would not suggest them unless its something you really wanna do, and you really want to spend alot of time with your car.

[Enzo_Guy]

Originally Posted by USMC8511 but those rotary motors sure can turn up the RPM's...

Yeah, until an apex seal takes out your turbo and housing.

These guys can tell you everything you want to know and then some with V8s in RX-7s:
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/forum.php

[ReverendDexter]

This probably isn't the board to ask about rotaries, hahaha. They're plenty reliable, so long as you treat them right.

Don't drive it like a piston engine - going easy on it doesn't mean low rpm, it means letting it spin.

Keep up on your oil changes. Rotaries do burn some oil, but you shouldn't have to add any in between 3k swaps. I'd find it really hard to justify running synthetic, as you're not going to get the advantage of longer time between oil changes like you would on a boinger.

Premium is totally unncessary. Pre-Renesis rotaries will run fantastic on whatever cheap swill you can feed them.

The no-torque thing is a lie - they make torque, just none down low. It's a 1.3L for pete's sake. You have to spin them.

Don't go cheap on a clutch. You'll spend a lot of time above 6k on a stock motor, above 8k on a ported one. A cheap clutch will scatter if it's spun too fast, and that's much easier with a rotary. I'd recommend a scatter shield if you really port the motor.

Remove the stock exhaust with the cats and seal it away somewhere and use it only for your smog tests. RX-7 cats are EXPENSIVE (there's three, and the big one is over $1k).

Here's a couple links that may or may not be helpful:
Racing Beat - Mazda Performance Specialists
Mazda RX7 | Owners, Parts, Repair, Performance, Mods, Wheels - RX7Club.com
CorkSport Mazda Performance - 360-260-CORK
http://www.mazdarotary.net/porting.htm - images of the different port types. Now you'll know what the hell people are talking about when they say "Bridgport", "Streetport", etc.

[707Stang]

damn! rev with the win!!! wow!

[drazga97]

Originally Posted by Enzo_Guy Unreliable design. The N/A ones are fine, but once you throw on a turbo or two they become unstable. The spinning rotors have a weak link called apex seals, which under high boost like to break off and destroy lots of stuff. The single best mod you can do to an N/A RX-7 is installing an "American 8-cylinder performance system". Small block Chevys and LSx blocks usually fit best (Fords can be tricky with the front distributor).

usually when i go to the track twice a week in the summer i see atleast one blow up a week. stock form theyre great. id be afraid to mod one though.

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by AzSonicSnake they need to have oil mixed in the gas

That's only true if a prior owner has removed the oil injection pump (which *is* a halfway common mod).

[AzSonicSnake]

i hang around alot of rotary guys in the mazda club i am in, and from what i have heard, they premix even with the pump active. something about the pump not adding enough due to emissions regulations.

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by AzSonicSnake i hang around alot of rotary guys in the mazda club i am in, and from what i have heard, they premix even with the pump active. something about the pump not adding enough due to emissions regulations.

Even on a stock N/A motor? That seems excessive.

[AzSonicSnake]

yuppers. and agree! a couple even have turned thier washer tanks into oil tanks and add another pump to inject more. all seems excessive to me, but i am not too up on rotarys. of course this is all on renisis powered rx8's.

[707Stang]

lucky for me i'm not planning on modding this car, just keeping her stock. planning on swapping the oil for a heavier weight. how much oil would i have to add to the gas?

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by 707Stang planning on swapping the oil for a heavier weight.

Why would you do that? Remember, this isn't a piston engine, and it has very different care and feeding than a piston engine. I would NOT go to anything other than what's suggested from the factory.

Originally Posted by 707Stang how much oil would i have to add to the gas?

If you're running premix, buy some 2-stroke pre-mix oil, and add per it's instructions.

Honestly, though, unless the prior owner has removed the oil injection pump, I wouldn't do premix.

AZ's friends are in RX-8s, which use the Renesis motor. While at its core the Renesis is still a 13B, it's a VERY different motor. The Renesis is somehow able to squeeze the same power N/A that the old motor had to have a turbo to make, and requires high octane fuel to do it. The 13Bs also didn't have to pass the same emissions standards that the Renesis does, which is the exact reason specified by AZ as to why his friends add premix.

I'd double check with the guys on rx7club before doing it.

For the record, I don't think it'll hurt anything, I just don't think it'll help.

[707Stang]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter Why would you do that? Remember, this isn't a piston engine, and it has very different care and feeding than a piston engine. I would NOT go to anything other than what's suggested from the factory. If you're running premix, buy some 2-stroke pre-mix oil, and add per it's instructions. Honestly, though, unless the prior owner has removed the oil injection pump, I wouldn't do premix. AZ's friends are in RX-8s, which use the Renesis motor. While at its core the Renesis is still a 13B, it's a VERY different motor. The Renesis is somehow able to squeeze the same power N/A that the old motor had to have a turbo to make, and requires high octane fuel to do it. The 13Bs also didn't have to pass the same emissions standards that the Renesis does, which is the exact reason specified by AZ as to why his friends add premix. I'd double check with the guys on rx7club before doing it. For the record, I don't think it'll hurt anything, I just don't think it'll help.

well the reason for the oil, is cuz the previous owner was running a 10-30, but that's for severe cold. so i'm gonna go with a 20-50 which is what the sticker says on the hood for our temps up here, i picked up some valvoline vr-1 high zinc racing oil, it's a conventional oil.