1995 Eagle Talon ESI
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Old April 4th, 2011, 03:31 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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1995 Eagle Talon ESI


I've got a '95 Talon with a spun rod bearing. I've never changed a rod bearing before, any tips would be helpful.
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Old April 16th, 2011, 04:39 AM   #2
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umm, you are gonna need all new gaskets, they sell a gasket kit on ebay pretty cheap, and since you are down there already I would get all new rods and maybe piston rings?. is it the 420a or 4g63 engine?
Good luck!
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Old April 16th, 2011, 12:10 PM   #3
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You may have bigger issues with a spun rod bearing. This typically causes a rod knock which can damage the crank, rod, and other internal parts. Also, if the bearing had sheered and sent metal fragments into the oil pan, pray none it got sucked up into the oil pump. The 4g63s are notorious for crank walk which can be fatal to a motor. Spun rod bearing typically means complete bottom end rebuild with new rod and main cap bearings, new caps, new rods and pistons, new rings, new pins, possibly new sleeves if the rod knock caused scarring to the cylinder walls, and the crank would need to be machined and balanced.
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Old April 16th, 2011, 05:59 PM   #4
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you are also gonna need to resurface the heads
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Old April 16th, 2011, 09:51 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by maxgst View Post
you are also gonna need to resurface the heads
There's only one head, it's a I4.

Also, why? If it's a spun rod bearing that's all bottom end. It would have no effect on the head.
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Old April 17th, 2011, 01:10 PM   #6
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lol yeah head. You said he should replace the pistons, and you need to remove the head to remove the pistons
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Old April 17th, 2011, 01:18 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by maxgst View Post
lol yeah head. You said he should replace the pistons, and you need to remove the head to remove the pistons
I never have. I've put new rods and pistons in a 4g63 before with the motor still in the car and the head still on it. Just disconnect the rods from the crank, take out the spark plugs to relieve vacuum/compression in the cylinders, and pull the pistons and rods out as one. Then you just compress the rings on the new pistons and put them in from the bottom. Several guys I know have done this when putting forged internals in their Honda motors as well. It's pretty common. There's a perk to having FWD with no subframe in the way of the bottom of the motor.
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Old April 17th, 2011, 02:52 PM   #8
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huh thats cool, I had a 4g63 before (when I was like 17) and I thought I had to replace the piston rings and I researched and I read I was gonna have to remove the head to take off the pistons.

I thought that what this guy says made sense
Can i change piston rings on a 2.0 1g dsm motor from the oil pan as an entry point? - Yahoo! Answers
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Old April 17th, 2011, 03:24 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by maxgst View Post
huh thats cool, I had a 4g63 before (when I was like 17) and I thought I had to replace the piston rings and I researched and I read I was gonna have to remove the head to take off the pistons.

I thought that what this guy says made sense
Can i change piston rings on a 2.0 1g dsm motor from the oil pan as an entry point? - Yahoo! Answers
The webs he is speaking of does not exist on a 4g63. This is part of the reason they crank walk though. I've put new internals into two different 4g63s and neither time did I take the head off. How do you get it by the crank? You turn the fucking thing dumbass. lol You put a torque bar on the center bolt of the crank and rotate it so that the piston is at the bottom, then move the rod off the crank (with spark plug out to relieve compression) and push the piston about halfway up the cylinder, then you rotate the crank 90* and pull it all out as one unit. Move on the next rod/piston and repeat.

Now what he is saying about honing is the proper way to do it and if you are planning on beating on the car heavy, then it is highly recommended. This does involve taking the head off. However, both cars I put the internals in over 2 years ago are still running fine on the road today with no internal issues. If the cylinder walls show no signs of scaring and the block has relatively low miles (less than 100k) then just swapping in new internals from the bottom is perfectly fine if done right.
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Old April 17th, 2011, 03:42 PM   #10
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haha nice, you should put this reply in the yahoo answers thing
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Old April 17th, 2011, 03:47 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by maxgst View Post
haha nice, you should put this reply in the yahoo answers thing
The reply was from 3 years ago. I don't think there's a point to doing so. lol
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Old April 17th, 2011, 10:06 PM   #12
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His is a 420a since it's an esi. Only the turbocharged ones came with 4g63s in his years.
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Old April 17th, 2011, 10:22 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by V8ornothing View Post
His is a 420a since it's an esi. Only the turbocharged ones came with 4g63s in his years.
Ah... that's correct. Then yes, the head will have to come off. lol I don't think I'd bother with rebuilding it actually. I'd just do a 4g63t swap.
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Old April 17th, 2011, 10:42 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by RDY4WAR View Post
Ah... that's correct. Then yes, the head will have to come off. lol I don't think I'd bother with rebuilding it actually. I'd just do a 4g63t swap.
+1 4g63 is a much stronger engine. Remember they put 420as in neons lol
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Old April 18th, 2011, 01:43 AM   #15
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lol, swapping for a 4g63 is pretty hard since the transmission and the engine mounts are all facing the opposite directions, plus you would need to change the whole wiring harness including the computer.
Just forge the 420a and slap a turbo
here are some pictures of the dsm's I owned lol
1997 rs (420a engine)

1995 gst (4g63t engine)

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