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#1 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 11
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Detroit E-Z Locker trouble...Help!!
Hey guys... I hope you can help me. I have a 1968 Amc Javelin with a 1995 Ford Explorer 8.8 rear. It was an open diff with 4:10 gears. I installed a Detroit E-Z Locker and it seemed to unlock real easy even pushing the car around the shop. Oh well no big deal right? I have been through this whole car. The only thing I havent changed was the distributor hold down. Get what I mean?? Last week I was taking the car for exhaust work and a front end alignment. This car has not been on the road for 20 years...Woo Hoo I was pumped!! It acted a little funny, locking in/out in/out. thought a had a tranny issue slipping out of gear, nope. Got the car back home, pop/bang, in/out. My buddy has an E-Z also...says that is the way his is and it is o.k. untill HE drove the car. It seem like any time you accelerate one side of the locker will unlock, or BOTH sides will unlock. It will just sit there and grind until BANG, it locks back in. Has anybody else had this problem? Thanks in advance for your help. Kevin
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#2 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 11
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I called Eaton/Detroit today and they said I may have forgot to put the side gear trust washers back in. He said these would close the gap in the middle of the locker, and allow the teeth to grip each other. Do any of you guys have a pic of these? There was a real thin, almost paper thin, washer/bearing/race thingy I put back in, on both left and right sides, but I dont think this was what he was talking about. These were definately too thin to close any gap. Thanks again for the help. Kevin
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#3 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 11
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Hey Guys... Got the trust washers from Ford today and guess what, I already had them in. Called Detroit again, this time they told me to replace the washers, and use a completely round cross pin. He also told me to step up to something else as this unit wont hold up to what I have planned for it. We'll see...
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#4 |
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Moderator
2010 mustang gt auto
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: creighton pa
Posts: 7,478
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there right the shock loads from a performance car will break that in short order. better off replacing the carrier now before you end up having to replace the whole rear end because parts end up out the side of it.
__________________
MM BRACKET RACING CREW CO-FOUNDER BAMA Performance Drag Team Founder 2010 GT auto
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#5 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 11
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Gonna try a mini spool this weekend. Hope that works. Here are some pics of the car if you are interested. Let me know what you think so far. Thx...Kevin
www.myspace.com/Overtimeracing[/url] |
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#6 |
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Moderator
2010 mustang gt auto
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: creighton pa
Posts: 7,478
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wouldn't it just be easier to by a stock trac-loc from frpp & still be able to drive it on the street?
__________________
MM BRACKET RACING CREW CO-FOUNDER BAMA Performance Drag Team Founder 2010 GT auto
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#7 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 7
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could sware I answered the same question on another board. you will have problems down the road with that type of locker (the type where you replace the spider gears with the pucs). if you look at them brand new you will see that the teeth that grab together are very shallow. they will round off the edge to a point where they will fail to hold the lock and just slip past each other in a ratcheting way. they are low cost and easy to install but they will not last when you get on it. it is always better to get a full case locker, as the case is stronger. even with the locker holding it can stress the factory stock case and crack it. same goes for a mini spool. it stresses the stock case. if running a spool it is best to get a full spool. i ran a full spool on the street for around 50k miles and you better be ready to buy several replacement tires as the spool will kill them every year. also dont be surprised when you have bad steering response with the spool. it will push the front end straight ahead even when you are trying to turn if the road is slick.
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