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#21 |
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Regular
2000 Kona Blue GT Vert
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Gainesville, Fl
Posts: 197
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This is some info that someone fromthe corral told me...
the problem is that the factory uses a 6v turn on, and the aftermarket deck you installed uses a 12v turn on. You can simply insert a 1.5k ohm resistor or use a voltage regulator. I tried this last night with no success... (But I might just be retarded and had the resister in the wrong location... or just the wrong type of 1.5K resister...)
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#22 | |
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Moderator
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#23 |
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Regular
2000 Kona Blue GT Vert
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Gainesville, Fl
Posts: 197
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I put it inline and it did nothing to the voltage... I went from the + to the - on my test bench and it dropped down to 6 volts... did that on the car and mothing... I'm going to try and find something to regulate it to 6 volts and try that... I'll keep posted....
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#24 |
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how did you connect it inline? Did you solder it in place and use some shrink tubing or some other way. The best way to do it is the one I just mentioned as those resistors are prone to breaking the leads off if not installed properly.
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#25 |
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Regular
2000 Kona Blue GT Vert
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Gainesville, Fl
Posts: 197
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I did... I solderd it inline and put heat shrink on it... didn't change voltage at all... I'm gonna work on it more this weekend..
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#26 |
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Regular
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The popping noise is because there is too much power hitting the amp/unit at once. I put in my HU the day before Xmas Eve and had the same problem. I didn't install it myself, but I took it back to the guy who installed it.
He used to work for Ford and said this is a common problem when putting in aftermarket HU's. He put in a resistor to limit/delay the amount of power hitting at once. That's all I know about it, I don't know any details or anything, just that it worked, and it took the guy 5 minutes to put in. But not to worry, the guy told me it wouldn't hurt the amp or anything, just a harmless popping noise (but who knows if he knows what he was talking about). But my popping was an EXREMELY loud one, it scared me every time I turned on my car. So I say bring it to a local Car Electronics Store, or contact Ford and ask them where to put in the resistor and what size. I don't know much about this stuff, but mine wasn't a voltage problem or anythying, just a simple, quick fix. Let us know how it goes.
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![]() Check Out My Stang! OnlineDDClass.com - New York's Online Defensive Driving Course Last edited by RJVetter831; February 12th, 2010 at 01:17 PM. |
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#27 | |
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#28 |
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this really isnt as common as you may think. it only happens on amplified systems that are being integrated and all my years of installing i can only count on one hand how many times this has happened and the majority of them being on here. Ive used diodes as well as resistors and all have worked but not for these guys up here. there are other guys on here that I walked them through the install and never experienced any problems. I dont know. I do know that I will be addressing this problem for you guys this weekend though.
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#29 |
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MM Fanatic
2000 GT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lynnwood, Washington
Posts: 4,258
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Thanks wraith! Yeah i have the diode in there, even though it didn't work. Figured what did it hurt!
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2000 Black convertible GT: KB 15psi, and other goodies... ![]() 1971 Datsun 240 z: Header and rebuilt motor. (The DD) |
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#30 |
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no problem, ill definetly keep you guys updated
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#31 |
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Regular
99 v6
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 358
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r u sure u dont have a ground loop on the amps...i think RJ is right to an extent because the after market HU have higher output v then stock they vary anywhere from 2v-8v ... just something i have seen over the years while doing car audio instalations ..who knows i never use stocks amps so yeah
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#32 |
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Regular
2000 Kona Blue GT Vert
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Gainesville, Fl
Posts: 197
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I powered on the amps without any radio hooked up and got the sound.... I think the 6 volt thing is gonna work as soon as I can get 6 volts there though.... Gonna go and get a bunch of resisters and try it out...
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#33 | |
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Alright guys try these out individually and let me know your results. 1) You will need a 9v battery for this. pull the radio so that you have access to the wires. Cut the amp turn on wire so that there are exposed wires on the ford harness. turn the radio on and when it comes on take the amp turn on wire from the ford harness and touch the positive side of 9v battery. let me know your results. 2) take a piece of wire and wrap it around the external metal contact of the rca and then place the other end of the wire to a ground source. Let me know your results. 3) take the remote turn on wire from the ford harness and tap it into the red ignition wire. let me konw your results.
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![]() ![]() BUILD 2 IN PROGRESS Last edited by wraitherx; February 12th, 2010 at 08:50 PM. |
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#34 |
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once and for all, im not going to mention any names at this point, there is nothing wrong with using the factory amps when installing aftermarket units. My time as an installer I have worked on many cars from high end vehicles where if you broke a panel half of your salary is gone, to beat up old cars. I have done many installations and intergrated the factory amplifiers flawlessly without any problems what so ever. There are a number of members on here that I have walked through their installation and never had a problem being from early fox body amplifiers, new edge mach systems, and the shaker systems. If I ever worked on a vehicle and there was feedback such as that I would rectify the problem before the customer even got their car back. If a customer came in to get a radio done and you have the correct harness to integrate the factory amps are you just going to tell them that the only way to do it is to bypass the amps because you dont like using factory amps and have them spend more money then they really have to? I really hope not. Why do you think that these companies create these harness's for if they didnt work? Any installer knows that all cars are different and react differently no matter if they are the same or not. I fully welcome your thoughts and advice as I do fully understand that you do not like using the stock amps, and that is your choice, but please leave your comments out. /rant
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![]() ![]() BUILD 2 IN PROGRESS Last edited by wraitherx; February 12th, 2010 at 08:55 PM. |
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#35 | |
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Regular
99 v6
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 358
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i agree with u i never said stock amps were bad i just have had very bad experiance thats all sorry for any missunderstanding im not trying to take over ur job as a electrical guru of MM im jsut coming from living my life loud 150+dbs |
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#36 |
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Moderator
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No problems bro, I guess its just how you worded it sometimes that its bad or something to use the factory amps. I know what you mean about competitions but you have to keep in mind that alot of the guys on here aren't looking for things like that. most of them are just trying to upgrade the stock parts that they have and nothing more. You always have to keep in mind that the ears that is going to be listening to their system is theirs and not yours. If this were a true audiophile forum then it would be different. I dont claim to know everything by any means and I dont consider my title a job, I just like helping out and passing information down the line. I am one of those guys that started not knowing anything years ago to knowing a good amount and understand that sometimes not knowing something can be frustrating so I try to help out and teach where I can. Im always hoping that some of you guys would catch on and learn stuff and help others out so that Im not always on here. You will notice that on some threads I dont answer because what has been stated is sound. There are a couple of other guys on here that help me out like 03sonic and MXnate. So please, feel free to share what experience you have but like I said keep into consideration what these guys/gals are trying to do, how much they have, and work with them on that.
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![]() ![]() BUILD 2 IN PROGRESS Last edited by wraitherx; February 12th, 2010 at 10:30 PM. |
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#37 |
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Regular
99 v6
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 358
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no problem bro
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#38 |
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MM Fanatic
2000 GT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lynnwood, Washington
Posts: 4,258
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Haven't tried what you said yet. But if it helps when the car is on, and you power off and on the hu it will pop every damn time.
What color is the amp turn on wire? And when you mean to ground the rca's do you mean all or just one? I think the 3rd step is the blue/white wire correct? Not at home so don't have the write up on what wires are what.
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2000 Black convertible GT: KB 15psi, and other goodies... ![]() 1971 Datsun 240 z: Header and rebuilt motor. (The DD) |
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#39 |
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Regular
2000 Kona Blue GT Vert
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Gainesville, Fl
Posts: 197
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to power the amps without a radio hooked up I took an extra wiring harness that I have and touched the yellow constant wire to the remote (blue/white) wire...
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#40 | |
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Regular
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