Driver Window Stuck Down :(
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Old July 9th, 2007, 02:52 PM   #1
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Driver Window Stuck Down :(


My first post..but I've been reading this forum for quite sometime.

First off, let me say I am a newbie when it comes to cars. I love my mustang to death but I don't have much expierence at all working on cars.

The problem is about 3 days ago my driver side window all of a sudden won't go back up, it is stuck all the way down. The funny thing is it did this for a day back about half a year ago, then all of sudden worked fine again the next morning, however it hasn't fixed itself this time and probably wont. I noticed whenever I hit the button to go down it makes a click noise like it is working, but there is no click noise whenever I try to make it go up. Anyone have an ideas or solutions they can explain to me? I would really rather not take it to the dealership and pay for a bunch of stuff that I may not need.

Thanks for any help,
Matt
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Old July 9th, 2007, 03:21 PM   #2
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give your inside door panel a few good whacks with your hand and wala it will go up. your runners either have binded and the window has slipped off them or the window actuator assembly needs to be lubed.
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Old July 9th, 2007, 03:28 PM   #3
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the window problably fell off the track
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Old July 9th, 2007, 03:31 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by TurboLX
the window problably fell off the track
usually the issue.
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Old July 9th, 2007, 03:47 PM   #5
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Well thanks for replying.

I just got done whacking that door panel and no luck. How can I lube the actuator assembly? Any other ideas?

Thanks again
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Old July 9th, 2007, 03:50 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by matloc28
Well thanks for replying.

I just got done whacking that door panel and no luck. How can I lube the actuator assembly? Any other ideas?

Thanks again
can you hear the actuator engaging? or is it silent it could also be a wiring issue.
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Old July 9th, 2007, 04:06 PM   #7
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I do hear it engaging when I hit down....but I hear NOTHING when I try to get it to go up.
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Old July 9th, 2007, 04:24 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by matloc28
I do hear it engaging when I hit down....but I hear NOTHING when I try to get it to go up.
switch is most likely bad/loose wire or the wire has a break in its connection. its a switch issue im sure almost 100%
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Old July 9th, 2007, 05:23 PM   #9
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How can I got about checking this?
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Old July 9th, 2007, 05:52 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by matloc28
How can I got about checking this?
first pull the switch panel off the door and look on the reverse side for any aparent wire/switch issues.
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Old July 9th, 2007, 06:10 PM   #11
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Will do and give update soon....thanks.
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Old July 9th, 2007, 06:36 PM   #12
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Pulled off the panel and everything looked connected and in good shape? blahhhhh I want to get to the bottom of this.....anything else?
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Old July 9th, 2007, 06:39 PM   #13
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Do you know how to use a test light or a multimeter?
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Old July 9th, 2007, 07:16 PM   #14
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if your car is older than a 2001 then window probablly is off track. before 01 ford just glued the window to the the tracking device. I took mine in to auto glass repair shop they replaced it with a whole new window for 200. they said they could fix it temperally with glue for 40 bucks but that it would come loose again shortly.
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Old July 9th, 2007, 10:12 PM   #15
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Sorry for the late reply...had some things to get done. It's a 2001 so its probly not off track. I've never used a test light or a multimeter before but I could prob figure it out..
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Old July 9th, 2007, 10:19 PM   #16
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i think it still has just come off the track prolly gonna have to take it to a shop since ur a newb to the whole workin on cars thing
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Old July 9th, 2007, 10:23 PM   #17
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I'M HAVING A SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH MINE EXCEPT MINE IS STUCK ON TOP. IT WONT GO UP OR DOWN AND I CANT HEAR ANYTHING. IVE POSTED A TREAD ON THIS AND "fogged306" TOLD ME HOW TO TEST THE WIRES...

HERES WUT HE SAID...

I always use a test light because its just easier for me. I don't have the schematics for that car infront of me so this is going to be a little tough. First just test all the wires at the switch and see where you are getting 12v in... just make sure the key is on, of course.

ok I found the up and down wire colors but not the 12v. but this should help a little anyway.

drv.........yellow-up wht/blk-down
pass.......wht/yel-up tan/blu-down


"Ok well it still could be a lack of 12v in to the drivers side of the switch.. the way those switches are set up is called 5 wire reverse polarity. meaning when you push the switch up, it sends a positive out one side and a negative out the other, and vise versa for down. there are only 2 wires that are actual outputs on the switch and they go directly to the drv. motor.

The motor will go in one direction when 12v is applied to it and reverse its direction when you flip the polarity of the wires... the switches are designed to do this without any need for relays so its really easy to diagnose.

I also didn't mention in the last post that when you are testing for 12v out of the one wire, i.e. up.. test for ground on the down wire. do the samw when testing for 12v on the down wire, while pressing down on the switch."

HOPE IT HELPS FOR YOU CUZ I DON'T GET IT
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Old July 10th, 2007, 01:42 AM   #18
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Thanks for all the replys...ill try some of this and more tomorrow and if not just take it to the dealership

Matt
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Old July 10th, 2007, 11:10 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by oasr87
I'M HAVING A SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH MINE EXCEPT MINE IS STUCK ON TOP. IT WONT GO UP OR DOWN AND I CANT HEAR ANYTHING. IVE POSTED A TREAD ON THIS AND "fogged306" TOLD ME HOW TO TEST THE WIRES...

HERES WUT HE SAID...

I always use a test light because its just easier for me. I don't have the schematics for that car infront of me so this is going to be a little tough. First just test all the wires at the switch and see where you are getting 12v in... just make sure the key is on, of course.

ok I found the up and down wire colors but not the 12v. but this should help a little anyway.

drv.........yellow-up wht/blk-down
pass.......wht/yel-up tan/blu-down


"Ok well it still could be a lack of 12v in to the drivers side of the switch.. the way those switches are set up is called 5 wire reverse polarity. meaning when you push the switch up, it sends a positive out one side and a negative out the other, and vise versa for down. there are only 2 wires that are actual outputs on the switch and they go directly to the drv. motor.

The motor will go in one direction when 12v is applied to it and reverse its direction when you flip the polarity of the wires... the switches are designed to do this without any need for relays so its really easy to diagnose.

I also didn't mention in the last post that when you are testing for 12v out of the one wire, i.e. up.. test for ground on the down wire. do the samw when testing for 12v on the down wire, while pressing down on the switch."

HOPE IT HELPS FOR YOU CUZ I DON'T GET IT
Haha, sorry man. Told you I'm awful at explaining this stuff. when you get back into it let me know and I'll post a drawing of what the wires should look like.

matloc, If you want I can tell you what to look for when you get the switch out and I can help you figure out where the problem is... I'll try to simplify whats written above a little

also, those wire colors may not apply to your car depending on the year of your car. telll me the year and I'll verify the colors for you.
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Old July 10th, 2007, 04:30 PM   #20
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its a 2001 v6 rained all day today so didnt pull it out and try anything....ill have to get to it tomorrow
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