1000watt amp and 1000 watt sub..dont work
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Old August 29th, 2006, 08:09 PM   #1
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1000watt amp and 1000 watt sub..dont work


ive had a 1000 watt amp and a 1000 watt sub in my car for a little while and now it doesnt work. first it started at where it would work for 20-30 min then stop. for a while. now it doenst work at all.
does anyone know which it might be? the Sub or the Amp?
thnks
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Old August 29th, 2006, 08:31 PM   #2
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The amp is getting too hot and prolly tripping a sensor on the amp...Check all your wires...
What gauge wire are you running?

Is the amp bridged?

What brand amp?

What brand sub?
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Old August 29th, 2006, 08:32 PM   #3
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i have no clue...so ur sayin it the wires?
what about the sub? is that fine?
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Old August 29th, 2006, 08:33 PM   #4
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I need to know the details so I can properly diagnose the situation...
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Old August 29th, 2006, 08:35 PM   #5
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well i really dont have to much of an idea bbout the wiring.
its a phoniex digital sub, and the amp idk wat it is.
there both 1000watts. isnt one of them supose to be higher or lower?
=/ thats really all i know bout it. the wiring im guessin is good because it used to work just fine, i know the amp would get hot. but i turn the car on now and the power light on the amp turns on green.....
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Old August 29th, 2006, 08:39 PM   #6
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what if i get like a 500 watt amp...will it work maybe?
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Old August 29th, 2006, 08:39 PM   #7
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Its the heat of the amp...

It prolly gets to hot and shuts off...Can you snap me a pic of the amp?

It would be great if you could do that...Maybe I could tell you what kind of amp it is...

Also if your power wire is too small then you are starving the amp...For 1000 watts you need to run at least 4 gauge IMHO...

There are alot of things that can cause this and without the info its going to be hard to give you an exact answer to your problem...
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Old August 29th, 2006, 08:55 PM   #8
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kk thnks, i'll try to get a pic of it soon, but it'll probably be early tomoro
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Old August 29th, 2006, 08:56 PM   #9
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its not a well known amp i know that, i got it at likea flee market for a good price tho
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Old August 29th, 2006, 09:33 PM   #10
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I would have to imagine the amp is crap. its probably just overheating now quickly and getting progressively worse. I would say its likely that your sub is perfectly fine however. As far as the wiring even 8ga is more then enough up to 1000rms and 4ga would be a good idea once you get to the 1500rms or more mark. although the amp you said is 1000 watts i guarantee thats the peak rating, more then likely its only 300rms at best output so your wiring is more then sufficient. Check it over and make sure its not shortin out anywhere but i doubt it. if you cant find any faults id look into getting a new amp and sub(s).
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Old August 29th, 2006, 09:46 PM   #11
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get both new?!
well wat if i just get lik a 500 watt amp, cuz i can get a 500 or 600 or 700 watt amp for freee from a store (wink) but anything else lik a new sub an all i'd rather just throw out.
im more intrestest in speed now. unless i can fix this up cheep then ya
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Old August 29th, 2006, 10:17 PM   #12
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IMHO just go with a new amp...Since it is an el'cheapo amp it is prolly junk...IMHO when you buy stereo compnents you get what you pay for...

Me personally I prefer bigger wires...So Anything over about 600-700 watts I go with 4 gauge...But I am old school like that...

Your sub should be fine...
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Old August 30th, 2006, 12:12 AM   #13
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k wat size amp shuld iget for the sub?
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Old August 30th, 2006, 06:24 AM   #14
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really to know for sure you should figure out what rms continuous wattage the sub can handle. id be willing to bet its probably less then half the peak so i wouldnt go over an amplifier rated any higher then 400rms wattage. and since its just the one sub connect it up to an amp that makes that wattage bridged.
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Old August 30th, 2006, 12:46 PM   #15
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k, thnks you guys for the help, but i honestly have no idea about this whole sub and amp thing and the wiring, im better in the engine. and i dont wana take it to a place for them to look at then pay them for there advice. plus its all just added weight on my car anyway. so im ditching the sub and amp.

thank you though for your help
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Old August 30th, 2006, 03:23 PM   #16
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No prblem...And I agree with ditching the sub and amp...Sell it and buy performance parts...
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Old August 30th, 2006, 04:42 PM   #17
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yea thats wat im gunna do. thnks though
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Old September 11th, 2006, 11:55 PM   #18
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If it worked before (for a few montha at least),I would say it could be 1 of like 3 things.The amp turns on in protect mode right away right? Could be a bad ground connection(simplest thing it could be).No ground will pit the amp into protect.

You could have possible burnt out the amp from extended use(cheapies tend to do that)

OR you fried the voice coil in the sub.Yeah I hear it now,"you can't blow a 1000 watt sub with only like 300 watts!" Thats BS though!You can blow a sub with 100watts or even 15watts.Distortion will blow any speaker with ANY amount of power. Under driving a sub will blow it too(speaker say 200 watts RMS and you only give it 100watts).

Questionid the sub's sound get progressivly worse?Did you get a burnt smell(even a little)?Is it a "dual voice coil"(DVC) sub? Did you check the amp's fuse(the one on the amp not the one on the power wire)?

My bet is the sub is blown(one or both voice coils if it's a DVC).Since most ppl don't know distortion from the trunk rattling they don't know that it's happening(distortion).The fuse ON the amp is actually to protect the sub from distortion because it's on the pre-amp loop so when the input distorts or clips,it pops.It won't pop if the sub is distorting though from over/under driving.




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Old September 11th, 2006, 11:57 PM   #19
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By the way!!The gain knob IS NOT a VOLUME knob!!!!! Having this turned up too high will distroy a sub!!! I never turn it over 1/3 of the way up.You really need an oscilloscope to set it properly!
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Old December 3rd, 2006, 10:19 PM   #20
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This is a simple answer assuming that all of your wiring is ok. This might throw you off a little bit but matching impedance is what makes ALL subs work. Most people dont understand how impedance works, they just think a 1,000 watt amp works with a 1,000 watt speaker.
NOT TRUE! Check the impedance on the speaker 1st, make sure that the impedance on the speaker isnt lower than what the amp is rated for. Example...you have an amp that is 2 ohm stable and pushes 600 watts at 2 ohms, and you connect this to a sub wired at 1 ohm. This is going to cause your amp to push between 750-800 watts now, which is going to cause it to shut down after a few minutes (in your case 20-30 mins) because its getting too hot too fast. Youre causing the amp to push out more power than its supposed to. Thats why its shutting off. Check the impedance, make sure that its not wired lower than whats recommended.
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