[Whiskey11]

Beautiful day out, a good steady breeze kept the heat from becoming overbearing. I did manage to escape SERIOUS sunburn like I got last time out by using Sunscreen, although applying four times during my time there wasn't enough to save my neck and face from still getting toasty... BLEH.

The course design was done to honor the now underwater Mid America Motorplex but in a very scaled down fashion and with some AutoX twists. Of course this means the course is a very open course which is NICE for Mustangs. Infact, there was at least 7 of us in Mustangs across various classes (3 of us in F-Stock alone :O).

Unfortunately due to an extremely lazy end of course worker, I only know one of my times and I know I DNFed the first run. Needless to say, this course was FAST. Probably about averaged about 55-58 seconds in total. The only time I know is my last run's time, a whopping 65.203. Which is a full 10 seconds behind the leader of F-Stock, the famous Don Knop who ran somewhere in the 55-56s range at his fastest. Considering he is on lighter wheels with A6's on them AND is in a Shelby GT, I will take my 10 seconds behind him as a compliment I feel like I drove the PISS out of my car and the tires sure look like they've had the piss beaten out of them Tire pressures where at 38 PSI front, 35 PSI rear.

So what did it look like:


#1 is a 3 cone slalom
#2 is a reducing distance slalom
#3 is a constant distance slalom (and where I and about 6 others DNFed due to a very POORLY marked pointer)
#4 is the highly uncommon STRAIGHTAWAY. I topped out at about 60 MPH in this before needing to hit the breaks
#5 is a constant distance slalom

Very fast course, but distance wise huge.

Thankfully I went with some data recording tools (well tool). One of my buddies was selling his GoPro Hero non-HD camera. He wanted a staggeringly low price of 40$ and I bought it from him even though it's not the HD version. Video quality and audio quality are not the greatest. Audio is downright terrible, so enjoy the music

Run #1 (DNF):

‪2009 Mustang GT - 24 July 2011 Autocross - Run 1‬‏ - YouTube

‪2009 Mustang GT - 24 July 2011 Autocross - Run 1‬‏ - YouTube

Run #2 (???):

‪2009 Mustang GT - 24 July 2011 Autocross - Run 2‬‏ - YouTube

‪2009 Mustang GT - 24 July 2011 Autocross - Run 2‬‏ - YouTube

Run #3 (???):

‪2009 Mustang GT - 24 July 2011 Autocross - Run 3‬‏ - YouTube

‪2009 Mustang GT - 24 July 2011 Autocross - Run 3‬‏ - YouTube

Run #4 (65.203):

‪2009 Mustang GT - 24 July 2011 Autocross - Run 4‬‏ - YouTube

‪2009 Mustang GT - 24 July 2011 Autocross - Run 4‬‏ - YouTube

How do I feel? Other than adrenaline, I felt I really started picking up better lines in the last runs (3 and 4). The third run felt faster than run four because in run four just before the first slalom I had to slam the breaks to avoid hitting a cone. Run three was just overall much smoother and faster. I feel like I've mastered (for the most part) slaloms in this car. The video shows it decently well. The Straightaway was fun as hell and completely unexpected.

I hope they post results and pictures soon

What I did learn is UNDERSTEER UNDERSTEER UNDERSTEER....................................... holy cow.

[spaseghost]

nice stuff man.

[Whiskey11]

Originally Posted by spaseghost nice stuff man.

Thanks. I enjoy it a little too much. As much as I'd like to say I'm disappointed that Nationals will be taking up Next Month's AutoX event in Lincoln, I can't complain Ohh bugger, yes I can, the next isn't until mid September! I'm going to go insane by then!

[Whiskey11]

They posted results, early this time =D.

Run #1: DNF
Run #2: 64.894 (best)
Run #3: 70.713 (hit 3 cones, actual times without cones 64.713)
Run #4: 69.203 (hit 2 cones, actual times without cones 65.203)

I was at least consistent. I believe the DNF run was 68 something.

Don Knop was the only other person in F-Stock, so I got second place by default, BUT that is also last, so take that how you will His best was 57.148.

Great day except getting too aggressive with cones kind of killed it. As I thought, my best would have been Run #3 but since it wasn't a clean run I suffered time wise. Ohh well!

Pic from the day:


Image courtesy of J.Doctor again.

[94racing]

looks fun and when i run with slicks after the tires get warm and i push it the car pushes a little bit eventually when the tires get over heated the whole car gets choppy and jumpy. of course im open track you run auto x. it looks like you had a blast tho keep driving the driver mod is always improvable.

[Whiskey11]

Originally Posted by 94racing looks fun and when i run with slicks after the tires get warm and i push it the car pushes a little bit eventually when the tires get over heated the whole car gets choppy and jumpy. of course im open track you run auto x. it looks like you had a blast tho keep driving the driver mod is always improvable.

I'm not sure I could ever get the tires to that point with a better set of them. Right now I'm looking at hoosier a6s in the 18" range which will be mounted to a cheapo set of motegi lighter weight wheels. I'm looking at 9" wide wheels all the way around as I hear this is the widest we can run up front without rubbing? I also read that 255 is the widest tire, which really kills the selection for those a6s. Of course it would be almost 2000$ for wheels and tires which is a ways off, so I will continue abusing the bfg kdws' on the car. It is just a little frustrating to have to touch the brakes on a corner because the front runs out of traction. Most of these issues are showing up on decreasing radius turns which means I need to let off in the turn although those tires should help at least maintain some of that speed.

It could also be related to the near absence of camber on the stock alignment... live and learn. I need to find some other autox events nearby which would help tighten the nut behind the wheel a bit.

[JakeM]

As long as you have the offset and backspacing right there is no reason you can't run 10" wide wheels all the way around. Also, there are a tone of people running 285's at all four corners.

That said, get a rulebook if you don't already have one and see what the class limits are for whatever class you want to run in. IIRC, 9.5" is as wide as you can go since it came on a factory Mustang (GT500) with a 265 width tire for F-Stock.

[Whiskey11]

Originally Posted by JakeM As long as you have the offset and backspacing right there is no reason you can't run 10" wide wheels all the way around. Also, there are a tone of people running 285's at all four corners. That said, get a rulebook if you don't already have one and see what the class limits are for whatever class you want to run in. IIRC, 9.5" is as wide as you can go since it came on a factory Mustang (GT500) with a 265 width tire for F-Stock.

I will have to check the rule book again, but I believe it mentions something about same trim level, at which I'd be stuck with 18x8.5. I have very little (acutally no) desire to stay at F-Stock. Either ESP, or SM, whichever I can fit myself into. I'm thinking with the Fays2 Watts Link I'll be in SM due to ESP's "No chassis stiffening lateral locating linkages for solid axle cars" but SM says "Any suspension is a go if it mounts in factory locations" which the Fays2 does. Besides, I enjoy the challenge of running against "proper sports cars with IRS". Could be fun

So curiosity has me peaked then, what setups are you seeing folks run these 285s and 10 wide wheels and how heavy of a wheel are we talking?? Finding lightweight wheels for an S197 that are also wide is not easy without dropping a TON of cash.

[JakeM]

285 on 9.5" GT500's all day long. You can see them by if you google it. All Roush's forged 18's are 18x10 all the way around. Most of the people with these wheels either run 275 or 285's all the way around. There are also more than a few guys running 18x10 FR500 replica's all the way around and 285's at all four corner's.

A few examples:
275/40's up front and 285's in the rear guy says he will go with 285's next times. These are 18x10 Replica FR500's all around. No funky mod's to the rim's. No spacers or anything.


Thread:WWW.S197FORUM.COM

18x10 Enkie RPF1's 285 Toyo's all around:



18x10 Roush Wheel's all around with 285/35/18 R compounds:

[JakeM]

My next track wheel and tire setup with be some type of 18x10 with a +38 to +40MM (maybe even +42MM) Offset with 285's at all four corner's. Cheapest route that will clear brembo's for certain is the FR500 reps. But they are fairly heavy. After that, the next best IMHO is the 2010 GT500 wheels. 18x9.5 all the way around. Not quite as heavy, but not quite as cheap either.

For now, I'm sticking with my 17x9 bullets and putting 265/40/17 Donlup StarSpec's on all four corner's. (Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec) Also, upgrading brake pads, fluid and lines. I haven't picked up a rule book yet, but I know I'm going to be outclassed (because of the supercharger). But this is the most affordable setup until I can afford 18x10's with good rubber and a BBK. Also doing: Koni SRT.T's, Steeda Sport springs, J&M Caster/camber plates and a UMI single adjustable PHB. All in hopes of putting in a "full" auto-x season in. "Full" meaning; I want to try and hit all the local events and a few of the not so local. But I'm not going to try and get in the points or anything unless that happens by chance.

P.S. I believe someone on S197forums just got Enkei PF01r's (18x9.5) from Sam Strano for around $1300 new. That is about the lightest per dollar you are going to get. (http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65589 jsnyg is the user.)

[Whiskey11]

Originally Posted by JakeM My next track wheel and tire setup with be some type of 18x10 with a +38 to +40MM (maybe even +42MM) Offset with 285's at all four corner's. Cheapest route that will clear brembo's for certain is the FR500 reps. But they are fairly heavy. After that, the next best IMHO is the 2010 GT500 wheels. 18x9.5 all the way around. Not quite as heavy, but not quite as cheap either. For now, I'm sticking with my 17x9 bullets and putting 265/40/17 Donlup StarSpec's on all four corner's. (Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec) Also, upgrading brake pads, fluid and lines. I haven't picked up a rule book yet, but I know I'm going to be outclassed (because of the supercharger). But this is the most affordable setup until I can afford 18x10's with good rubber and a BBK. Also doing: Koni SRT.T's, Steeda Sport springs, J&M Caster/camber plates and a UMI single adjustable PHB. All in hopes of putting in a "full" auto-x season in. "Full" meaning; I want to try and hit all the local events and a few of the not so local. But I'm not going to try and get in the points or anything unless that happens by chance. P.S. I believe someone on S197forums just got Enkei PF01r's (18x9.5) from Sam Strano for around $1300 new. That is about the lightest per dollar you are going to get. (WWW.S197FORUM.COM jsnyg is the user.)

Good call. Reps incoming

I do have some plans for my car. Most are fairly obvious. Wheels and Tires, now finally hammered out for track use, those Enkei's (or the NT03 M is also in the same width and weight) and Hoosier A6's in a to be determined size.

Fays2 Watts Link

Either BC Coilovers (EVERYONE QUICK, CRINGE! I like challenge?) or a set of shocks/struts and lowering springs. The BC Coilovers would be cheaper (methinks) and easier to install. I KNOW they are not 100% ideal, perfect, or whatever but they fit the bill for what I would like in performance and cost.

Lower Control arms (Steeda?) and Relocation brackets.

Adjustable upper control arm (?????)

Strano Adjustable Sway Bars front and rear

Stainless Steel brake lines


I'm also thinking about weight, Steeda's radiator support, and a BMR K-Member.

Aluminum Drive Shaft is obvious.


Hopefully all of that before next Spring. Maybe

[JakeM]

Strano sways will be the next on my list after the struts, shock, PHB and camber plates. A Watt's link would be awesome, but I don't think I need one. At least, yet. If you do LCA's make sure at least one end has a spherical bearing. Poly makes for a bind condition in transition. I spoke with Sam Strano at length about that. Relocation brackets really aren't a big deal and neither is a upper control arm. Those can wait, but are nice to have. As far as the coilovers, I've often thought about skipping struts and shocks then going to a coilover setup. But the set I want is way to much money at the moment. If I could afford it I would run KW Varient 3's. Maybe down the road when my struts, shocks and springs are warn out. Then I'll do Watts link and C.O.'s at the same time.

What Camera are you using for the Vid's?

[Whiskey11]

Originally Posted by JakeM Strano sways will be the next on my list after the struts, shock, PHB and camber plates. A Watt's link would be awesome, but I don't think I need one. At least, yet. If you do LCA's make sure at least one end has a spherical bearing. Poly makes for a bind condition in transition. I spoke with Sam Strano at length about that. Relocation brackets really aren't a big deal and neither is a upper control arm. Those can wait, but are nice to have. As far as the coilovers, I've often thought about skipping struts and shocks then going to a coilover setup. But the set I want is way to much money at the moment. If I could afford it I would run KW Varient 3's. Maybe down the road when my struts, shocks and springs are warn out. Then I'll do Watts link and C.O.'s at the same time. What Camera are you using for the Vid's?

Personally, the Panhard rod set up is a cheap fix to the suspension geometry equation. It works very well for street set up, but the Watts truly kills all side to side movement of the rear axle. The Fays2 will also allow you to adjust the roll center of the rear axle a little bit. The Steeda also does this. I think Grigg's does as well. That said, it's 650$ + shipping for peace of mind that your rear axle is squarely center. That allows your other suspension components to do their job correctly without having to muck about with other jobs in the lateral direction. Less bushing flex laterally as well

As for the coilovers, yeah might be overkill. I haven't made up my mind. What is swaying me is that the BC coilovers (and yes, I still recognize they are not the best you can buy) come with camber plates, spring rates that are more in line with what I need. Adjustable ride height is moot, I'll set it and forget it. Probably the same for the adjustable damping. That said, I'm sure a set of custom valved shocks/struts for the same working spring rates would provide the same level of drive that I want and probably more reliably. Chances are though it's not any cheaper.

The camera is a GoPro Hero, the non HD version. A friend of mine upgraded to two new cameras (one is a GoPro Hero HD and the other is a proper video recorder) and sold this one to me for a staggering $40 with all the mounts and what not. It works, the sound sucks, the video isn't amazing, but it does work well enough for data analysis.

[JakeM]

Nice! Wish I could find one for that cheap. I've been looking for a while. $300 seems like a lot for a Hero HD, with the mounts I need, considering the quality of sound and video provided.

[Whiskey11]

Originally Posted by JakeM Nice! Wish I could find one for that cheap. I've been looking for a while. $300 seems like a lot for a Hero HD, with the mounts I need, considering the quality of sound and video provided.

To be honest, the suction cup mount is all you need. It is downright incredibly strong. So unless you plan on mounting on something other than an exterior body panel or glass, it should do just fine. Sadly, the sound quality is not that great, however the HD video is incredible in comparison to my non-HD.

[JakeM]

I need the roll bar mount for our (my uncles) E85 Dragster. Otherwise I would just get the suction cup and be done with it.

[Whiskey11]

Originally Posted by JakeM I need the roll bar mount for our (my uncles) E85 Dragster. Otherwise I would just get the suction cup and be done with it.

Ahh, that makes sense. I believe BestBuy carries the GoPro's now. I wonder how much just the camera is since I already have the mounts and what not. I doubt they sell them individually anyway. If I wasn't refocusing all of my money to paying for new rims/tires for autocross, I'd be all over one of the HDs.

I wonder why Jazzer and Reverend haven't been to give their opinion. Maybe I just smell that bad?

[JakeM]

Originally Posted by Whiskey11 Ahh, that makes sense. I believe BestBuy carries the GoPro's now. I wonder how much just the camera is since I already have the mounts and what not. I doubt they sell them individually anyway. If I wasn't refocusing all of my money to paying for new rims/tires for autocross, I'd be all over one of the HDs. I wonder why Jazzer and Reverend haven't been to give their opinion. Maybe I just smell that bad?

Dunno, I'd PM them. I noticed that when I"m looking at this forum, the dot next to the forum usually is blue if there is new posts. Lately, when new posts pop up this forum doesn't have the blue "bullet" its just the normal orange color.

[Whiskey11]

I'll shoot them a PM, chances are they've seen the thread, read the thread, watched the videos, just chose not to comment for whatever reason. I'm cool with that

Three more pictures courtesy of GotCone.com and rehosted on my photobucket (to save their bandwidth )







Look at that body roll