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#1 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 6
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Building an auto-x/roadcourse car
Well my local drag strip is closing next week so I'm selling my drag cars and building a auto x car. I'm picking up a '95 DFG v6 roller with a clean body and interior Sunday morning. Throwing my 351w and t5 in it. This engine makes about 400hp to the wheels so it should be fast enough to start with. Hopefully the t5 lasts a while. Now to figure out what I want for suspension. This will be my first car to set up for competition level handling(I've done the street handling stuff before). I'm going to skip the normal street stuff that everyone does and go straight to track suspension. I'm thinking I'll start in this order.
Weld in Sub frame connectors Adjustable shocks and struts Coil overs, front and rear CC plates bigger sway bars (tq arm and other major upgrades like that and panhard bars will come later) and kinda go from there once I feel what it needs. Brakes are on my list too but I don't consider that a suspension item. Anything you guys want to add? BTW, its not my first post, I just changed my user name slightly. Last edited by atrainsgt; October 18th, 2011 at 02:29 PM. |
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#2 |
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Regular
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 243
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I'd start with brakes and good tires first.. then drive the car out of the car to get a feel for it. Auto X and road course will have slightly different needs... but adjustable suspension will be able to help you out.
Build the car to the weak points you feel as a driver. All the top shelf parts in the world don't mean crap if it's not build to your style. Also, read up on the rules for the classes you want to run with. Some simple mods bump you up into a class that you can't hold your own in. (I've made that mistake.) I'd go in this order: Brakes/tires Sub frames Springs/dampers K member/A arms Rear (control arms etc...) You'll need to swap an 8.8 into the V6 body if you want to make use of the panhard/tq arm set up easier. Also will address the open diff the V6 comes with.
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~Matt 2000 Roush V6 SC'd 1998 Roush V8 SC'd 2001 Ex Sport V6 SC'd 1970 Mach 1 351W N/A |
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#3 |
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Priest of the Car Gods
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Too much power to start off. AX and road racing isn't about power. A stock 5.0 is plenty enough to be too much for AX, especially when you're starting out.
This really depends on your goals, though. Are you looking to become a better driver? If so, start off as close to stock as possible, and AX with that for at least a season. You need to learn the car so well you KNOW when it's going to over/understeer, how to initiate it yourself, how to avoid it, etc, etc, etc. You need to be able to put that car on the very edge of it's ability, and know what happens (and how to correct for it) when you exceed it. When you do that, you'll also learn where the car's weaknesses are for the way YOU drive and YOUR driving skill, and you're much better equipped to choose parts that will be most effective to correct those issues that you have. If you're not going to listen to that, then my recommendation is to go to Maximum Motorsports' website, go to the grip boxes, and buy the most expensive one you can afford. That will give you a good set of matched parts and address the most important things first.
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#4 | |
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At the Apex pulling 1.2g
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Welcome to Modded Mustangs btw
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#5 |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Portland, TN
Posts: 17,515
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downside you're not going to be in f stock for your first real go around with autox...although it'll still be a blast op in a higher class
i'm currently working on the same type of build OP...so far i've got 50% of my suspension and handling mods finished, and have the rest waiting to install. Brakes are a must...look into upgrading to 5.1 brake fluid, SS lines, and a better pad (i did and i love the finished stopping power for what simple mods they are)... Gaaa im just excited because my home made rear shock tower brace will be finished and ready for paint this week. I can't wait to weld it in edit: btw OP i don't know where you live, but if you ever come near TN/NC hit me up...we can hit up the Dragon and you can really see how well your suspension is doing...
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#6 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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![]() as for suspension i would run atleast twice on the stock setup i know its a v6 suspension setup but you need to get the feel of the edge of the car. you will never learn the car correctly or learn adjustments perfect without gradual upgrading. i would go ahead and get the sub frames and brakes then leave it. run on street tires then move up to slicks/ sticky streets. then to the 8.8 rear and goes on from there with youre stuff. you dont need much power to go fast. driver mod is fast ![]() where you located op?
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#7 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
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I haven't had time to read through the replies since I'm at work but I will mention that I've spent time on auto x courses with aggressive "street" suspension in my other mustangs. This will just be my first "track" suspension car. I'm not a new driver, and I am very use to handling high power cars.
Also this is just a fun thing for me. I'm not in it to win. Last edited by atrainsgt; October 18th, 2011 at 04:47 PM. |
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#8 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Portland, TN
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#9 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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![]() If youre not in it to be competing so much as fun the 351 oversteering pig it is
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#10 | |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
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I agree 50lbs(in stock form) does make a big difference, but considering I have no accessories, and the battery is in the trunk it wont be any worse than everyone else with fully dressed 302's and 4.6's. Plus It has twice the tq curve and having driven on a large road course before with a 300hp car, it was not nearly enough power! The average person thinks 351w's are a lot heavier than they are. Aluminum heads and intake I have on mine makes it even lighter. I read through all the replies and it makes good sense. My exception is that I do have time under my belt with stock suspension and somewhat modified suspension(H&R super race springs, Bilsteins, UCA's, LCA's, CC plats etc) so I am going to step the bar up a little past that, but I'm not going all out. I do want to master each step. As for the brakes I don't see anything better than 13" cobra brakes and SS lines in the budget. If I didn't have my 351w sitting here an aluminum block 302 would be a good option. If I see a cheap explorer 302 I might snatch it up because my 351w will bring probably $3000. |
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#11 |
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Priest of the Car Gods
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Where would you find an aluminum block 302? I thought only one place made 'em, and they wanted something like $5k for a bare block.
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#12 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
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#13 |
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BWAL Is My Hero
2003 F150 S-Crew 5.4 FX4
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Iowa
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You could try and find a motor from a wrecked 3 valve. Plenty of power and they are really starting to come down in price because of the new 5.0's. Should be able to find a motor + ECU for fairly cheap at the local salvage yard. Plenty of power too, you'd be starting with 300HP/320ish torque at the flywheel and they are all aluminum.
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#14 | |
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Banned
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#15 |
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BWAL Is My Hero
2003 F150 S-Crew 5.4 FX4
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Iowa
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I don't remember for sure 6er. But I don't think it was all that hard/expensive.
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#16 | |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
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I'm not totally against this idea. I just hate buying another engine when I already have a good one sitting hear. Though like I said I could sell it. How much do the 4.6 3v's weight? |
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#17 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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Dunno.. I have one ill sell you. Completely built 390 rwhp roadcourse engine. 3v aluminum block id guess 448 hp at the crank out of an 07 gt. We will be taking it down to atlanta georgia for its final run in our car december 2-4
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#18 | |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
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I'm sure you will want way too much for that! Whats the torque? |
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#19 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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i think its around 380 at the wheels. its an american iron race car that its in. just freshened. were putting a boss 302 in it.
![]() and the new motor
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#20 |
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BWAL Is My Hero
2003 F150 S-Crew 5.4 FX4
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Iowa
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390RWHP? What is done to it? That is a lot of power from a N/A 3 valve.
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