[Fast92Coupe]

If this is a dedicated track car and you push it hard, you'll probably want something more track oriented than the Hawk HP+ pad. They're great at low-medium temperatures, but pushing hard on track will take them past their effective temp range.

Suspension wise, the upper control arm bushings are probably shot in that thing after 16+ years. Unfortunately replacing the bushings above the diff is a royal pain. You'll end up with some excess rear axle movement, but likely nothing that you can't get used to. If you keep at it, you'll likely eventually want a panhard bar and torque arm or 5-link or 3-link. Something like that really transforms the handling- making the car more consistent/predictable when pushed to the limit.

Also for a dedicated track car, a roll cage might save your life one day. Plenty of people track cars without them, but there's a reason why they are required for racing. And while HPDE isn't racing, the risks are not much different. The wreck you're in might not be initiated by you.

BTW, nice color on that car.

Justin

[mcglsr2]

Originally Posted by Fast92Coupe If this is a dedicated track car and you push it hard, you'll probably want something more track oriented than the Hawk HP+ pad. They're great at low-medium temperatures, but pushing hard on track will take them past their effective temp range. Suspension wise, the upper control arm bushings are probably shot in that thing after 16+ years. Unfortunately replacing the bushings above the diff is a royal pain. You'll end up with some excess rear axle movement, but likely nothing that you can't get used to. If you keep at it, you'll likely eventually want a panhard bar and torque arm or 5-link or 3-link. Something like that really transforms the handling- making the car more consistent/predictable when pushed to the limit. Also for a dedicated track car, a roll cage might save your life one day. Plenty of people track cars without them, but there's a reason why they are required for racing. And while HPDE isn't racing, the risks are not much different. The wreck you're in might not be initiated by you. BTW, nice color on that car. Justin

Thanks for the advice! We'll see about the Hawk HP+ pads, I got them in the car and they are great! When I went from stock GT brakes to Cobra breaks, I was like holy crap this is night and day difference! When I went from the PBR pads to the Hawk HP+ pads, I was like holy crap this is night and day difference! For now, I feel really good about the brakes. I still drive the car on the street, so I was looking for the best compromise between track/street pads. As I get better, I'll consider have two sets of pads, but I'm not there yet I don't think.

I've already replaced the bushings in the upper control arm, I used the tool that MM sells. And yes, it was a huge pain. But I did that back when I was doing the suspension upgrades. I left the stock UCA and I just used new rubber bushings from NAPA. I figure I'll be something more to the live axle at some point, but I'm still in the learning phase so I was trying to get the requirements done first.

A roll cage is in the plans. Just haven't gotten around to it yet. I've been looking at the 6-point (IIRC) autopower one, and have it welded in.

Thanks!

[mcglsr2]

Okay, I don't think I am going to make the HPDE this weekend. I was driving the car around tonight, sort of a shake-down for the weekend, and dammit if a problem didn't pop up.

Here's the issue: if I drive the car enough to get the diff and brakes heated up, whenever I turn to the right hard (and thus load the left side), I hear this horrible moan sound from the left rear wheel. It does NOT happen when the car is still "cold", and it does NOT happen with I turn left (and thus load the right side). ONLY on a hard right.

It also happens if I pull into my driveway, which is on a slope, and then slowly let the car roll back down the driveway, it will moan again, but this time is sounds like it's coming from both wheels, the diff, and the driveshaft. Probably one or more of those items are just transmitting the vibrations. If I let the car sit and idle for 10 min or so, and cool down some, then try to roll back down the driveway, it does NOT make the moan sound. If I then corner to the right hard, it does NOT make the moan sound. If I continue to drive for a couple min, get the revs up and some speed, get some heat into the rear end, then turn right, it DOES moan, and then if I pull into the driveway, and roll back down, the whole rear end moans again. I have no idea what the issue is.

Here is the set up for the car: the suspension is all new, new al. driveshaft, new u-joints, new 3.55 gears in back, new Torsen T2, new brake pads (that I bedded in correctly), no quad-shocks, cobra brakes. I checked the anti-moan bracket, and the u-clamp there is really tight, so I don't know if it's that. I'm worried that it's either the gears or the torsen. I had the shop that installed the rear end double check the back-lash when they first installed it, they told me it's good, so I have to believe them.

I'm taking the car to the shop tomorrow morning and hoping to God they can find the issue and fix it, I'm supposed to be driving to Homestead tomorrow for the event. I'm going to be really depressed if I can't make it, so fingers crossed. Do any of you guys have any idea what might be causing that moaning sound? It's not a grinding or a chewing sound, it's literally like some metal back there is moaning...

[Fast92Coupe]

Check the left rear caliper bracket clearance to the brake rotor, those Cobra rear brakes sometimes need just a little grinding.

[94racing]

That or did you add the ford rear end additive for the clutches? Mine made that noise. It made a horrbible noise either way you turned it eneded up being those rear end clutches. I ha to put 2 bottles of it in and give it a hard hpde day and it went away. Its called ford rear end friction modifyer fluid

[Serlin]

A little late here, but its probably the rotor hitting the caliper bracket.

Does it sound like this?
Listen closely at 9 and 23 seconds in.

Strange noise - YouTube

Strange noise - YouTube

Its fairly common. The only way to fix it is to take the caliper bracket off and hit the top corners with a dremel. I did it, and the noise stopped.

Take a close look at the top outside edge of the rotors and check for any wear.
If thats the noise, then i'm 100% sure thats what it is.

[mcglsr2]

Originally Posted by Fast92Coupe Check the left rear caliper bracket clearance to the brake rotor, those Cobra rear brakes sometimes need just a little grinding.

Originally Posted by Serlin A little late here, but its probably the rotor hitting the caliper bracket. Does it sound like this? Listen closely at 9 and 23 seconds in. Strange noise - YouTube Its fairly common. The only way to fix it is to take the caliper bracket off and hit the top corners with a dremel. I did it, and the noise stopped. Take a close look at the top outside edge of the rotors and check for any wear. If thats the noise, then i'm 100% sure thats what it is.

YEEESSS, that is exactly what it sounds like in that video. Like a moaning sound. I only hear it from the left side turning right, or if I slowly roll backwards after some aggressive (and therefore heated) driving.

So, to understand, I'll have to do some grinding, but I'm not sure I understand where. I've created a picture here, do I grind a little on the caliper bracket where the red circles are? (This image is of the right side, which seems to be fine, I don't have an image of the left side, so I'll use this as reference):

[mcglsr2]

Originally Posted by 94racing That or did you add the ford rear end additive for the clutches? Mine made that noise. It made a horrbible noise either way you turned it eneded up being those rear end clutches. I ha to put 2 bottles of it in and give it a hard hpde day and it went away. Its called ford rear end friction modifyer fluid

I've got a Torsen T2 - no clutches. I was wondering if perhaps it might have been the diff, but the guys at the shop didn't seem to think so...not that it still couldn't be...

[mcglsr2]

Welp, I made it to the HPDE. It was a blast, had lots of fun! It was my first time driving a Mustang (and a RWD) at one of these, and my first time at this particular track. I had quite a bit of learning to do, on the car and track. Overall, great stuff. Here's a pic of me chasing a Porsche (lol, not really chasing, more like being left behind ):


Lots of really nice cars there. For the most part, the Mustang did really good. I had bought the car (very) used in July of last year, and had spent the time re-doing the brakes and suspension. I left the engine alone - stock, dynoed at 185 whp and 245 wtq.

At the end of the 1st day, I had an issue where the car lost all of its coolant - the alternator pulley (where the belt attaches) actually chewed a hole in the upper radiator hose. That particular hose ran really close, and I guess because the engine mounts are shot it allowed the engine to rock too much. Anyway, I got a replacement hose from a parts store. This hose is taller (contacts the hood when closed but I don't think it's an issue) and goes no where near the alternator pulley. So one of the hoses, either the one that was on it or the new one is probably for the wrong year. But it worked. I took some videos of me on track and some data logging, after I combine them I'll post up a vid or two.

I did have a really strange issue, and you experts might be able to help me out with this: I'd be in the middle of a session, and all of a sudden I would get a really strong gas smell in the car. So I pitted, thinking my car is about to catch fire, get to the garage, pop the hood...and it's bone dry. No gas anywhere near the fuel rails, injectors, or fuel lines. However, back in the trunk, by the tank, it smelled strongly of gas. When this happened, the gas was probably around a half of a tank or perhaps a little more. I have no idea what's causing it, but it ruined some sessions, so it needs fixing. I think I was throwing the car around a lot more (read: driving harder) and maybe some gas was sloshing out of the tank somehow? I even got a report the 2nd time it happened that a corner worker noticed some fluid coming out of the car (which I assume to be gas). The car would not always do this gas smell thing. After I parked it, filled the tank back up, went out for another session, it would be fine, no gas smell. I don't think there's a constant leak or anything. Any ideas? Is the interface between the filler tube and tank prone to leak or something? The first time I really smelled it was at the end of a straight... any ideas guys?

Edit: Oh, I forgot to mention: I drove the car to Homestead (4 hour trip each way) and back, I don't have a trailer and won't any time soon. I need a tire that works on the street and does well at the track. I ended up with some Nitto NT05's. All I can say is fantastic tire. I have no complaints at all about them, they stuck really well for my ability. When these wear out, I'll be buying more. If you are looking for a good double duty tire, there are a couple options, but for the price of these guys, I think they are hard to beat.

[94racing]

i would say prob stick with nittos for the far drive i have no idea how ra1s would hold up on that drive. my grampa drove his s2k with nt05s 3 hours to MidOhio ran 2 days then drove back. (still has like 3/4 thread)
and im glad you had fun. im waiting for the other pics and vids. put em up right now! jk but id love to see them,

[Serlin]

The Nitto's will be fine for your for a while.
I drive on the street to and and from the track on all of my track tires. NT01's, and RA1's. No problem.
They are tires and are meant to be driven on.

First, you are correct with the circles on the brack caliper bracket.
First, look closely and see where its rubbing. But, also, look at the opposite side on the same caliper. I, and MANY other guys, have had to put a washer between the caliper bracket and the mounting point, basically, "Centering" the caliper bracket. Either that, or, yes, get out the dremel, and just grind out the corner of the bracket. It wont take much.

Ok, since I was correct on the brake issue, I'm also 99% sure about the gas smell.

the gasket on the fuel filler neck seems to break down on our cars. Its fairly common. You were probably spilling out gas around the filler neck. Probably only happened around left hand turns, and, by the time you got back tot he pits, it was all evaporated.

There is a thread somewhere about how to fix it... lemme see if I can find it...

Glad you had fun. I'll be there March 3rd.

Ok, found it. I can almost guarantee that this is where the fuel smell is coming from. pretty common.

You can buy the part from 50 Resto, or a dealership for like 25 bucks.

Looks like another one has got the bug!!! Glad you had a good time.

Sebring in May with Track Guys is a "Do Not Miss" event! I will be there with about 130 of my closest Mustang Buddies!!!

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...t-pics.748604/