[Smilieboy]

So with the decision to build the heck out of the GT and not get the boss, i need to decide what to do with the motor. What follows is the options and my thoughts on each. Cars focus is autox and open track. I don't care about class, i am building the car for my entertainment. A tub K-member will be purchased so that is not a concern.

Option one: 5.0 big bore teksid with TFS 2V heads and aggressive cam.

Thoughts; i haven't seen too much on numbers for this combo. Cost wise it is the cheapest, but not by much. I wouldn't need new exhaust, ecm, or intake. It also would likely end up producing the least amount of power, which means for autox i wouldn't end up being over powered.

Option two: 5.0 big bore teksid with 4V heads

Likely the most expensive, would require new exhaust, ecm, etc. Would have more power up top. Everything with this just screams expensive as hell. Power would easily be over 400.

Option three: New 5.0 swap. Just based on my initial cost comparison, this may actually be cheaper than the 5.0 4V. Limited fab work but everything for this is also expensive. Issues are is this is still a new swap so i am not sure how well it will hold up. I am getting a production motor, the boss motor would be nice but i haven't seen one at a decent price. The production motor is okay, but to improve it like i would like to would cost alot more. However, this would be the most bad ass build of the three.

Thoughts, opinions, complaints, etc accepted.

[94racing]

pm sent man

[RockRacing]

IMO, the lighter, the better. I know a guy who used to race a '96 cobra in my class and he was actually planning to switch to a 2v for just that reason.

One idea I actually toyed with was installing the Jaguar AJ-V8 in my mustang. It's the 4.0l 4V V8 found in the Lincoln LS and Thunderbird as well as Jaguars, but it would take a lot of work (though nothing unreasonable) to get it to work.

[GreenMustang00]

If money is an issue go with the 2v and cams The new Coyote 5.0 wont be a cheap swap.

[Smilieboy]

Does this sound like a good deal or go with the aluminator shortblock from ford?

MUSTANG COBRA | Sean Hyland Motorsports

[94racing]

Little on the high side i think. Modular depot has the aluminator stuff i think might look at them

[GreenMustang00]

Originally Posted by 94racing Little on the high side i think. Modular depot has the aluminator stuff i think might look at them

This. I wouldnt pay that much for it.

[Smilieboy]

So in your opinions, which one of these setups would be better for autox/open track fun. Competition comes second behind fun so i am not worried if i am in a class or not.

[THE RY4N]

I think you should go with option one, it will be the cheapest and if you want a lightweight track car with around 400rwhp that's a good setup.

This guy put down 341rwhp with the trick flows and comp cams and similar bolt on you have now and 315's on the back. with that same setup and a 5.0l teksid, you could keep your bullitt intake and LT's, put some of the money you save from going 4v buy an aluminum driveshaft and more bolt ons and put down 400rwhp with less weight and problems .

TrickFlow Twisted Wedge Heads Dyno - YouTube

TrickFlow Twisted Wedge Heads Dyno - YouTube

[94racing]

Or the prebuilt motor i offered

[Smilieboy]

Originally Posted by THE RY4N I think you should go with option one, it will be the cheapest and if you want a lightweight track car with around 400rwhp that's a good setup. This guy put down 341rwhp with the trick flows and comp cams and similar bolt on you have now and 315's on the back. with that same setup and a 5.0l teksid, you could keep your bullitt intake and LT's, put some of the money you save from going 4v buy an aluminum driveshaft and more bolt ons and put down 400rwhp with less weight and problems . TrickFlow Twisted Wedge Heads Dyno - YouTube

trust me, weight is coming out of this car like titties in a drift car.

Originally Posted by 94racing Or the prebuilt motor i offered

I've thought about it, but i just feel this challenge to build a damn good 2v. Plus, from a video of someone doing a similar set up, it would sound just as sick as yours did. I am still waiting on results, but 400 sounds easily obtainable.

[GreenMustang00]

Originally Posted by Smilieboy So in your opinions, which one of these setups would be better for autox/open track fun. Competition comes second behind fun so i am not worried if i am in a class or not.

It all depends on budget.

A 2v with cams, intake headers, tb, and etc can be a vicous car for auto x.. Also spend some more on suspension with the money you saved.

But on my world I would do a 4v stroker.

The 3rd choice the coyote will be alot more work and money. Badass but not good for the wallets

[Smilieboy]

Originally Posted by GreenMustang00 It all depends on budget. A 2v with cams, intake headers, tb, and etc can be a vicous car for auto x.. Also spend some more on suspension with the money you saved. But on my world I would do a 4v stroker. The 3rd choice the coyote will be alot more work and money. Badass but not good for the wallets

Quite alot has been and a little bit more will be spent on suspension. just haven't decided how far i want to go. Tubular k has been long since decided it shall be. But i can't decide if i want to so coil over on the rear with the road race control arms and adjustable sway bar. Especially since the TA springs have less than 1K miles on them.

The motor is just something i really want to get out of there. TFS heads were going to be the choice but i just didn't and still don't know how far i want to go. This is going to be a huge investment with the actual HP return being something most on this board wouldn't even consider. I want something i can spin to 7+K and not worry about it blowing up.

[94racing]

Personnaly i would want to be able to wind it around 8k for roadcourae spec. On the 3v we have the limiter set at 8,500. With a higher rpm range i would say less shifting in autox too!
Is the mmr block aluminum? Im sure they would sell you one if not

[Smilieboy]

I haven't even talked to mmr yet. Mostly been looking around to see how much it cost to get the block bored and other people's opinions. I won't go with anything unless it is aluminum.

[94racing]

Originally Posted by Smilieboy I haven't even talked to mmr yet. Mostly been looking around to see how much it cost to get the block bored and other people's opinions. I won't go with anything unless it is aluminum.

just also remember you may need to change some stuff out for the car in the front with different spring rate/shocks since you will be alooot lighter in the front with the kmember/lighter motor ect. i dont like the idea of boring aluminum motors out but if its done right its ok. there is somebody that makes a 347 aluminum block. the hawk tire rep has one in his car but he dropped a valve this summer and trashed half the motor.

[Smilieboy]

Originally Posted by 94racing just also remember you may need to change some stuff out for the car in the front with different spring rate/shocks since you will be alooot lighter in the front with the kmember/lighter motor ect. i dont like the idea of boring aluminum motors out but if its done right its ok. there is somebody that makes a 347 aluminum block. the hawk tire rep has one in his car but he dropped a valve this summer and trashed half the motor.

I may have to change the springs up front anyway depending of if i do the rear suspension as well.

[Fast92Coupe]

If you have the coin I'd go with the Coyote engine. Keep it near stock and it should be the most reliable of the bunch, letting you have more fun on track instead of in the garage.

[94racing]

Boss 302r laguna edt!

[Smilieboy]

So i just wanted to throw another side bar into this thread mostly just in case i change my mind again or if conditions change for what i want to do. If you had 10K for parts, what would you do with the car? Current mods in sig and purpose will not change. Will not be a DD.