[8t6gt]

Originally Posted by 86ttops I have cross drilled and slotted rotors no cracks why would they use them on race cars if they cracked?

Everyone elses point exactly

[NoRegrets]

Originally Posted by 8t6gt Originally Posted by 86ttops I have cross drilled and slotted rotors no cracks why would they use them on race cars if they cracked? Everyone elses point exactly

They crack over time from the constant heat and then cooling.. Race cars replace their rotors every couple of races..

[NoRegrets]

"We do not recommend cross-drilled rotors in racing applications because cross-drilled cast iron rotors may crack due to the heat from braking."
Source: Online-racer.com

Cross Drilled Rotors also have a higher operating temperature because of less mass. They also increase stopping distances because they have less surface area.


Also, Indy and Trans Am teams are moving away from cross Drilled because of the cracks they develop.
Look at other modern race cars, they don't use cross drilled anymore, as well.

[Rustbelt]

benz, porsche, mcclaren etc????????

[NoRegrets]

Originally Posted by Rustbelt benz, porsche, mcclaren etc????????

Alot of it is cosmetic.

If you do some research, you'll find out the same stuff I did

[8t6gt]

But for the aplication he is using i dont think they would be a problem because you will have to replace them eventually anyway.

[NoRegrets]

Originally Posted by 8t6gt But for the aplication he is using i dont think they would be a problem because you will have to replace them eventually anyway.

He'll have to replace them sooner if he goes with Drilled Rotors..
If he has the money to replace the rotors whenever cracks to start to appear and worsen, then by all means, go ahead.

If doesn't, he has a chance of those rotors literally falling apart while he's driving..

[NoRegrets]

This is what the rotors will do:

[baine21225]

maybe he got a set of cheap ones?

[86ttops]

Sweet we don;t need no stinking brakes lol i have about 14,000 on mine no cracks yet they do eat pads and make your wheels dirt but hey they look cool and that is the important thing right

[IcantDo55]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets I wouldn't go with Cross Drilled rotors, your going to start seeing your rotors crack around the drilled holes.. I'd just get a set of good new regular rotors. Go to AutoZone and get the calipers for a 1987 Lincoln Mark VII.. they are the 73MM piston calipers and are a direct bolt on. I got mine for 14 dollars a piece, brand new (It's 25 if you don't bring in your old calipers). The only part that will not work on the calipers are the brake pads (duh). I got the Semi-Metallics since I was short on time and NEEDED a pair.. Other wise I'd go Ceramic since it cuts down on brake dust, dramatically. If you have the money, get the metal bushings for the caliper pins, it'll stiffen the calipers and give you a square push on your rotors. I noticed a BIG difference in braking power.. I'd also upgrade to the 10 inch drums in the back.. You can get those off of a Lincoln as well.. If you upgrade your rear drums, get a better Master Cylinder.. I'd go with a SN95 master cylinder since it'll give you a better feel. Remember to bleed your brakes after you've done your brake job.. Start from the furthest wheel from your master cylinder.. (Rear passenger tire.. then driver side tire, then passenger tire, then the driver side.. If not, you'l have air in your lines and your brakes will become "mushy" or even worse, your brake will fall to the floor when you least expect it.) You can get one man brake bleeders for 15-20 bucks.

This is unsafe! You need to replace the MC also with this. The stock MC does not move enough volume of fluid for the larger calipers.

Read up here:

http://svo73mm.cjb.net/

[NoRegrets]

Originally Posted by IcantDo55 Originally Posted by NoRegrets I wouldn't go with Cross Drilled rotors, your going to start seeing your rotors crack around the drilled holes.. I'd just get a set of good new regular rotors. Go to AutoZone and get the calipers for a 1987 Lincoln Mark VII.. they are the 73MM piston calipers and are a direct bolt on. I got mine for 14 dollars a piece, brand new (It's 25 if you don't bring in your old calipers). The only part that will not work on the calipers are the brake pads (duh). I got the Semi-Metallics since I was short on time and NEEDED a pair.. Other wise I'd go Ceramic since it cuts down on brake dust, dramatically. If you have the money, get the metal bushings for the caliper pins, it'll stiffen the calipers and give you a square push on your rotors. I noticed a BIG difference in braking power.. I'd also upgrade to the 10 inch drums in the back.. You can get those off of a Lincoln as well.. If you upgrade your rear drums, get a better Master Cylinder.. I'd go with a SN95 master cylinder since it'll give you a better feel. Remember to bleed your brakes after you've done your brake job.. Start from the furthest wheel from your master cylinder.. (Rear passenger tire.. then driver side tire, then passenger tire, then the driver side.. If not, you'l have air in your lines and your brakes will become "mushy" or even worse, your brake will fall to the floor when you least expect it.) You can get one man brake bleeders for 15-20 bucks. This is unsafe! You need to replace the MC also with this. The stock MC does not move enough volume of fluid for the larger calipers. Read up here: http://svo73mm.cjb.net/

It's marginal to upgrade the MC for a front caliper upgrade..

I've tested the brakes and they cut my stopping distance a good amount.. I'll upgrade the MC when I go bigger rear drums, or even discs..

[IcantDo55]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets Originally Posted by IcantDo55 Originally Posted by NoRegrets I wouldn't go with Cross Drilled rotors, your going to start seeing your rotors crack around the drilled holes.. I'd just get a set of good new regular rotors. Go to AutoZone and get the calipers for a 1987 Lincoln Mark VII.. they are the 73MM piston calipers and are a direct bolt on. I got mine for 14 dollars a piece, brand new (It's 25 if you don't bring in your old calipers). The only part that will not work on the calipers are the brake pads (duh). I got the Semi-Metallics since I was short on time and NEEDED a pair.. Other wise I'd go Ceramic since it cuts down on brake dust, dramatically. If you have the money, get the metal bushings for the caliper pins, it'll stiffen the calipers and give you a square push on your rotors. I noticed a BIG difference in braking power.. I'd also upgrade to the 10 inch drums in the back.. You can get those off of a Lincoln as well.. If you upgrade your rear drums, get a better Master Cylinder.. I'd go with a SN95 master cylinder since it'll give you a better feel. Remember to bleed your brakes after you've done your brake job.. Start from the furthest wheel from your master cylinder.. (Rear passenger tire.. then driver side tire, then passenger tire, then the driver side.. If not, you'l have air in your lines and your brakes will become "mushy" or even worse, your brake will fall to the floor when you least expect it.) You can get one man brake bleeders for 15-20 bucks. This is unsafe! You need to replace the MC also with this. The stock MC does not move enough volume of fluid for the larger calipers. Read up here: http://svo73mm.cjb.net/ It's marginal to upgrade the MC for a front caliper upgrade.. I've tested the brakes and they cut my stopping distance a good amount.. I'll upgrade the MC when I go bigger rear drums, or even discs..

I've never done it with out replacing the MC, is the pedal travel alot more than normal. From what I have red if your pads are low it might not have enough fluid to stop the car.

[NoRegrets]

Originally Posted by IcantDo55 Originally Posted by NoRegrets Originally Posted by IcantDo55 Originally Posted by NoRegrets I wouldn't go with Cross Drilled rotors, your going to start seeing your rotors crack around the drilled holes.. I'd just get a set of good new regular rotors. Go to AutoZone and get the calipers for a 1987 Lincoln Mark VII.. they are the 73MM piston calipers and are a direct bolt on. I got mine for 14 dollars a piece, brand new (It's 25 if you don't bring in your old calipers). The only part that will not work on the calipers are the brake pads (duh). I got the Semi-Metallics since I was short on time and NEEDED a pair.. Other wise I'd go Ceramic since it cuts down on brake dust, dramatically. If you have the money, get the metal bushings for the caliper pins, it'll stiffen the calipers and give you a square push on your rotors. I noticed a BIG difference in braking power.. I'd also upgrade to the 10 inch drums in the back.. You can get those off of a Lincoln as well.. If you upgrade your rear drums, get a better Master Cylinder.. I'd go with a SN95 master cylinder since it'll give you a better feel. Remember to bleed your brakes after you've done your brake job.. Start from the furthest wheel from your master cylinder.. (Rear passenger tire.. then driver side tire, then passenger tire, then the driver side.. If not, you'l have air in your lines and your brakes will become "mushy" or even worse, your brake will fall to the floor when you least expect it.) You can get one man brake bleeders for 15-20 bucks. This is unsafe! You need to replace the MC also with this. The stock MC does not move enough volume of fluid for the larger calipers. Read up here: http://svo73mm.cjb.net/ It's marginal to upgrade the MC for a front caliper upgrade.. I've tested the brakes and they cut my stopping distance a good amount.. I'll upgrade the MC when I go bigger rear drums, or even discs.. I've never done it with out replacing the MC, is the pedal travel alot more than normal. From what I have red if your pads are low it might not have enough fluid to stop the car.

My pedal travel is a little more, but my MC has less then 500 miles on it since rebuild.

[terribleonexx88]

ok finally i got my brakes on the discs and pads probly took an hour to put both sides on but the efffin ford anti theft lugs took like 4 hours a piece to get off. thanks god the was only one on each wheel.

[8t6gt]

Did you not have the special socket for the anti tefts

[terribleonexx88]

nope i dont =( and when i need tires on the back im gonna be effed unless i can change the studs with out pulling the axles