Have a question about a 351 block?

Sapper Daddy · August 2nd, 2009, 08:23 PM

OK. I may have found a suitable block for my 67'. It's a bone stock 351w. but it has been sitting for about 5 or 6 years with all of the fluids, oil, coolant, ect still in it. The oil is a little milky. It supposedly ran when it was taken out of the truck. It was taken out because the owner put a 460 in his truck. How much should I be concerned about the left over fluids? Should I be overly worried about the block being rusted out internally? It has obviously had a considerable amount of condensation over the years. And the owner admits it was left out side unprotected for most of the time. Any thoughts?

93hatch · August 3rd, 2009, 01:08 AM

hopefully its on an engine stand, pull of the heads and oil pan and have a looksey

Sapper Daddy · August 3rd, 2009, 03:04 AM

Nope. lucky me, its just sitting there on the ground. I could pull the heads. Have to feel the guy out first. I'd be a little pissed if some dude just came over to buy an engine and ripped it apart on me in my garage. And if I bring it home and it turns out to be no good my Girlfriend is going to shoot my ass. I've already go the ultimatum; Fix 1 or sell 1! This is my first Ford build, and all my other builds have been with all new engines. So I'm a little ignorant as to what exactly I'm supposed to be looking for.

I know there are some differences in some 351's. I've herd some years are more preferred than others for certain reasons. So what do you guys think I should be looking for. Any specific years, or out of any specific models I should be looking for???

MustangOne · August 3rd, 2009, 08:22 AM

When you are looking for a motor to install that needs no work, fine one that is still in a car or truck that is still running so you can hear it and drive it.

The best way is to learn how to work on motors. It is the only way to get a truly good deal and make it do what you want to. It is a lot easier that you think. The secret is a good machine shop.

To bad you are not closer I would be more than happy to show you how to do your own motor builds.

tnknepp · August 3rd, 2009, 09:08 AM

Perhaps someone can confirm this, I've never tried it...yet. A good place to start would be to see if you can even turn the engine by hand. If not, then you know you have problems. Perhaps leaving oil in the engine is good, if it is going to sit for a while, but it still needs to be turned to keep all internal parts covered in oil. My neighbor told me he got an engine that was seized up and just sprayed penetrating oil in the spark plug holes, and anywhere else he could, for a week or two and it finally broke loose and he was able to drive it after that. HOWEVER, this seems a little "iffy", so I don't know if anyone can confirm this to be a good thing to do or not.

69fastback · August 3rd, 2009, 11:42 AM

If you're wanting to put it in and drive it, as is, I would be very leary.
If you're planning on going through the engine, it would probably be ok.

Sapper Daddy · August 3rd, 2009, 12:51 PM

Yep Planning on doing a massive rebuild. Mustangone gave me some info on making it a stroker 427. I'm pretty used to higher end HP, just check my garage. I was originally going to rebuild my 289 into a 347 if it was salvageable. I'm just used to buying crate engines, and blocks that I have recently seen running. This is as I've mentioned my 1st block build. But back to my previous question. Is there a year, or number code I should be looking for? I'm going to be building this thing pretty hot. Hopefully even bottle feeding it in a year or 2.

69fastback · August 3rd, 2009, 02:37 PM

69 and 70 blocks are the most desirable because of the high nickel content, and thicker mains, both of which make them stronger. C9 at the beginning of the casting number shows it's a 69, and D0 will be a 70. Past that, theyre pretty much the same until the change to roller blocks in '94.

Sapper Daddy · August 3rd, 2009, 09:48 PM

thats the info I was looking for. Awesome! thanks guys.

August 2nd, 2009, 08:23 PM	#1
Sapper Daddy Newbie 1967 Mustang coupe 13.30@104 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 38 iTrader: 0 reviews	Have a question about a 351 block? OK. I may have found a suitable block for my 67'. It's a bone stock 351w. but it has been sitting for about 5 or 6 years with all of the fluids, oil, coolant, ect still in it. The oil is a little milky. It supposedly ran when it was taken out of the truck. It was taken out because the owner put a 460 in his truck. How much should I be concerned about the left over fluids? Should I be overly worried about the block being rusted out internally? It has obviously had a considerable amount of condensation over the years. And the owner admits it was left out side unprotected for most of the time. Any thoughts? __________________ Take my wife but please leave the car. And they did.

August 3rd, 2009, 01:08 AM	#2
93hatch Banned 1992 Lx 11.39@119.24 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Az Posts: 11,644 iTrader: 0 reviews	hopefully its on an engine stand, pull of the heads and oil pan and have a looksey __________________ [QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]

August 3rd, 2009, 03:04 AM	#3
Sapper Daddy Newbie 1967 Mustang coupe 13.30@104 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 38 iTrader: 0 reviews	Nope. lucky me, its just sitting there on the ground. I could pull the heads. Have to feel the guy out first. I'd be a little pissed if some dude just came over to buy an engine and ripped it apart on me in my garage. And if I bring it home and it turns out to be no good my Girlfriend is going to shoot my ass. I've already go the ultimatum; Fix 1 or sell 1! This is my first Ford build, and all my other builds have been with all new engines. So I'm a little ignorant as to what exactly I'm supposed to be looking for. I know there are some differences in some 351's. I've herd some years are more preferred than others for certain reasons. So what do you guys think I should be looking for. Any specific years, or out of any specific models I should be looking for??? __________________ Take my wife but please leave the car. And they did.

August 3rd, 2009, 08:22 AM	#4
MustangOne Lost in the 60's 1968 GT 500 Super Snake 12.6 @ 114.3 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sapulpa Oklahoma Posts: 2,053 iTrader: 0 reviews	When you are looking for a motor to install that needs no work, fine one that is still in a car or truck that is still running so you can hear it and drive it. The best way is to learn how to work on motors. It is the only way to get a truly good deal and make it do what you want to. It is a lot easier that you think. The secret is a good machine shop. To bad you are not closer I would be more than happy to show you how to do your own motor builds. __________________ MustangOne's Car's How to post Photos in Your Thread. Vote for your Favorite Ride of the month, Every Month Modded Mustangs Facebook

August 3rd, 2009, 11:42 AM	#6
69fastback Premium Member 1969 Mustang Mach 1 6.824@101.61 Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Oklahoma jackass, get to driving Posts: 5,572 iTrader: 0 reviews	If you're wanting to put it in and drive it, as is, I would be very leary. If you're planning on going through the engine, it would probably be ok. __________________ ./___ _ ____ ___ \. ( ]]] _ _ O _ _ [[[ ) \_ o _ _____ _ o _/ \|___\| ......... \|___\| http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyYU3...e_gdata_player

August 3rd, 2009, 09:08 AM	#5
tnknepp Regular 1967 Mustange Coupe, 200i Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Indiana Posts: 72 iTrader: 0 reviews	Perhaps someone can confirm this, I've never tried it...yet. A good place to start would be to see if you can even turn the engine by hand. If not, then you know you have problems. Perhaps leaving oil in the engine is good, if it is going to sit for a while, but it still needs to be turned to keep all internal parts covered in oil. My neighbor told me he got an engine that was seized up and just sprayed penetrating oil in the spark plug holes, and anywhere else he could, for a week or two and it finally broke loose and he was able to drive it after that. HOWEVER, this seems a little "iffy", so I don't know if anyone can confirm this to be a good thing to do or not.

August 3rd, 2009, 12:51 PM	#7
Sapper Daddy Newbie 1967 Mustang coupe 13.30@104 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 38 iTrader: 0 reviews	Yep Planning on doing a massive rebuild. Mustangone gave me some info on making it a stroker 427. I'm pretty used to higher end HP, just check my garage. I was originally going to rebuild my 289 into a 347 if it was salvageable. I'm just used to buying crate engines, and blocks that I have recently seen running. This is as I've mentioned my 1st block build. But back to my previous question. Is there a year, or number code I should be looking for? I'm going to be building this thing pretty hot. Hopefully even bottle feeding it in a year or 2. __________________ Take my wife but please leave the car. And they did.

August 3rd, 2009, 02:37 PM	#8
69fastback Premium Member 1969 Mustang Mach 1 6.824@101.61 Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Oklahoma jackass, get to driving Posts: 5,572 iTrader: 0 reviews	69 and 70 blocks are the most desirable because of the high nickel content, and thicker mains, both of which make them stronger. C9 at the beginning of the casting number shows it's a 69, and D0 will be a 70. Past that, theyre pretty much the same until the change to roller blocks in '94. __________________ ./___ _ ____ ___ \. ( ]]] _ _ O _ _ [[[ ) \_ o _ _____ _ o _/ \|___\| ......... \|___\| http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyYU3...e_gdata_player

August 3rd, 2009, 09:48 PM	#9
Sapper Daddy Newbie 1967 Mustang coupe 13.30@104 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 38 iTrader: 0 reviews	thats the info I was looking for. Awesome! thanks guys. __________________ Take my wife but please leave the car. And they did.

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