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Old November 18th, 2009, 12:15 AM   #1
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Roller Cam


So how do you install a hydraulic roller cam (like what's in the 5.0L 302HO's) in a 289 that runs the old flat tappet from the factory? What needs to be bought and done to make that swap possible?
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Old November 18th, 2009, 12:25 AM   #2
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you can buy a kit that comes with cam, button spring ,bridged lifters, push rods, and roller rockers.most cam builders can set you up.may talk to mustangone and he might have a number.
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Old November 18th, 2009, 12:34 AM   #3
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Cool. How much does a kit like that run. I'm trying to plan ahead and start saving some.
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Old November 18th, 2009, 10:30 AM   #4
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Here is the List of Roller Cams for your Motor. Roller Comp Cams

Here is a good kit for a Daily Driver Build $739.95
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Old November 18th, 2009, 09:59 PM   #5
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You can use the link bar lifters and not have to have any machining done on the block. If you use standard roller lifters, the valley has to be machined for the spider/dogbone setup. The linkbars are a better setup, but will cost you about twice as much. The only other thing you will probably have to do, is trim the cam retainer plate to fit under the timing gear, and you'll have to go to a brass distributor gear.
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Old November 18th, 2009, 11:28 PM   #6
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Damn, sound's like craigslist won't be there for me this time. Well, I'd better start saving. Looks like the EFI is gonna have to deal with being the wrong cam setup for awhile. I know that it works with the old flat tappet cams, but I was hoping I could convert it so it'd be more accurate for the whole swap.
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Old November 29th, 2009, 02:46 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by 69fastback View Post
You can use the link bar lifters and not have to have any machining done on the block. If you use standard roller lifters, the valley has to be machined for the spider/dogbone setup. The linkbars are a better setup, but will cost you about twice as much. The only other thing you will probably have to do, is trim the cam retainer plate to fit under the timing gear, and you'll have to go to a brass distributor gear.

I have a five bolt 289 in my 64 1/2 and I've done a bit of research. I've gone back and forth whether to build up my 289 (more $) or go modern (easier, much cheaper) I will more than likely go the more expensive route and build up the 289 as a roller/stroker as I will also get a new bellhousing for the five speed I plan to install as well.
The "machining" for the spider/dogbone isn't much more than match-drilling two holes and then hand-tapping. And its much cheaper ($35.00 for the spider) than the link-bar setup($400.00 for the lifters alone). For what you're investing into the link-bar lifters, the economical choice would be to get a roller motor from a junkyard and build it.
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Old November 29th, 2009, 04:09 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by super64 View Post
I will also get a new bellhousing for the five speed I plan to install as well.
Brian
If you have a 5 bolt motor, You cant change out the bell housing.
What we do is use the T-5 speed adapter plate to mount the 5 speed to your bell housing and use your clutch and z-bar set up.
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Old November 29th, 2009, 11:51 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by super64 View Post
I have a five bolt 289 in my 64 1/2 and I've done a bit of research. I've gone back and forth whether to build up my 289 (more $) or go modern (easier, much cheaper) I will more than likely go the more expensive route and build up the 289 as a roller/stroker as I will also get a new bellhousing for the five speed I plan to install as well.
The "machining" for the spider/dogbone isn't much more than match-drilling two holes and then hand-tapping. And its much cheaper ($35.00 for the spider) than the link-bar setup($400.00 for the lifters alone). For what you're investing into the link-bar lifters, the economical choice would be to get a roller motor from a junkyard and build it.
Cheers,
Brian
ummmm..yeah?????? I clearly said the spider/dogbone setup was cheaper than linkbars, but the linkbar setup is far better if you're going to be turning any RPMs. The later model roller blocks are fine as long as you're not making much over 500hp. The strongest, best setup for power and RPMs is an early block with linkbars.

And the machining also includes cutting a level area in the valley for the spider. I've done it more than once.

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Old November 30th, 2009, 09:24 AM   #10
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use the kit and the adapter mustangone suggested and you will be o,k.if interested i have a nice t-5.
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Old November 30th, 2009, 10:43 AM   #11
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No thanks, I'm looking for either a C-4 or a Top Loader. Transmission and I aren't really the best of friends so I want to try and keep that end of it as painless and simple as I can.
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Old November 30th, 2009, 02:12 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by MustangOne View Post
If you have a 5 bolt motor, You cant change out the bell housing.
What we do is use the T-5 speed adapter plate to mount the 5 speed to your bell housing and use your clutch and z-bar set up.
Modern Driveline has a 5 bolt bellhousing specifically for the 5 speed:

Bellhousing, QuickTime, 5 bolt SB Ford, T-5/TKO, cable release

Brian
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Old November 30th, 2009, 07:38 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by super64 View Post
Modern Driveline has a 5 bolt bellhousing specifically for the 5 speed:

Bellhousing, QuickTime, 5 bolt SB Ford, T-5/TKO, cable release

Brian
Hmm I looked and didnt see it, The plate to go onto the bell housing you already have is only $189. And you dont have to buy all that stuff.

Or is you car a auto?
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Old November 30th, 2009, 08:46 PM   #14
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It's a C4 Auto. This project is still in the planning stages. It's going to be a while before I have the coin, so I'm trying to get the research out of the way. If I had all the money to do everything I want to do, I'd end up doing it twice. Lucky for me, the car is still a blast to drive daily as is.

The daily driver kit is very attractive BTW. Where can I read the specs? Is that from your site or Comp's?
Thanks,
Brian
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Old November 30th, 2009, 11:01 PM   #15
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here is the spec's Comp Cams 270/270
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