This is Exhausting

Gregski · May 15th, 2010, 01:03 AM

So I picked up a Fel Pro exhaust manifold gasket set from Auto Zone again going for the cheap stuff. I used a razor type tool to scrape the old gasket off (man so much easier to work on with the engine out of the car, LOL), and a metal ruler to check my heads and see if my exhaust manifolds were worped, and they look good. Then I spent some time cleaning the old bolts with a wire prush and WD-40. And I chased the threads in the heads, [hey that rhymes] and cleaned them out really good, yes should have done it when the heads were off, but oh well. I also took the wire brush to the exhaust manifold and got some of the rust off of it. So before I put them on I have a few questions.

QUSTIONS:

The gaskets have a shiny metalic side and a dull side, which side goes towards the engine, which side towards the exhaust manifold or header? Two AutoZone "experts" had two different opinions!

Do I put any type of goop on the gaskets or do they go on dry? My guess would be dry.

What goop if anything do I put on the exhaust manifold bolts before screwing them in. I know I can rule out LockTight, jk.

As I can no longer buy replacement bolts, can I replace a broken exhaust manifold bolt with a grade 5 (3 notches on the head) bolt, or should I use grade 8 (6 notches on the head). Please see picture below of the old bolts and a new grade 5 bolt..

I wonder if the rust will come back on the manifolds unless I coat them with something?

thank you and you can see more of the project here:

Small Block Ford 302 V8

MustangOne · May 16th, 2010, 06:19 PM

Sinny side out , Get the good grade 5 bolt "gold ones" and take the manifolds to a machine shop to have the decked "maded Flat".

Never use gasket sealer on exhuast.

No lock tight.

I blast my manifolds and paint them with silver 1200 deg. paint looks good for 3 months.

Gregski · May 17th, 2010, 12:14 AM

someone on another forum recommends

"ARP stainless steel exhaust bolts never seize or rust !!! coat the threads with 30w motor oil and torque to 35 ft.lbs."

Oil on the bolt threads, seriously ?

MustangOne · May 17th, 2010, 06:57 AM

ARP bolts are great. But cost more and take longer to get.

Instead of oil, use anti seize would be better.

69fastback · May 17th, 2010, 06:27 PM

If you do get the ARPs, get the 3/8 bolt head instead of the 7/16, and you'll have more room to get a wrench on.

Gregski · May 18th, 2010, 10:05 AM

Is this the stuff?

Permatex, Anti-Seize Lubricant
Item # 81343 (133A)

Use in spark plug installation on aluminum cylinder head-equipped engines... [ahem] but if you read on it says and cast iron heads.

- Prevents corrosion
- Permits easy disassembly
- Will not wash away (no kidding don't get it on your hands)
- Eliminates galling, seizing
- Lubricates
- Withstands up to 1600 F

Use On:

- Manifold Studs
- Oxygen Sensors
- Hinges
- EGR Fittings
- Brake Anchor Pins
- Head Bolts
- Assemblies exposed to heat or corrosion
- Spark Plug Threads when installing in aluminum or cast iron heads.

mrtleavitt · May 18th, 2010, 06:12 PM

Yup, that's the stuff.

Gregski · May 18th, 2010, 08:46 PM

What do you make of this comment by someone on another forum?

"... wait we're talking about iron manifolds on an iron head right?
i never use gaskets between them if that was the case. less chance of warping when two exact same metals are right next to each other..."

MustangOne · May 19th, 2010, 07:06 AM

Ford did not use a gasket. but remember everything was new and flat.

We do not have the same. So we use a gasket now.

Gregski · May 19th, 2010, 10:16 PM

OK, thank you all for your advice, I got the drive side exhaust manifold mounted using the anti seize compound and torquing the bolts to 24 ft lbs as recommended by the Haynes manual, then I saw this post on another forum:

"... Also a big warning!!!!!!!! The use of any lube other than light oil will alter the torque needed to tighten the bolt/nut. The rule of thumb is to lower the torque setting by up to 30%. The anti seize reduces the friction between the threads so if you think you want 100# torque and go that tight you will be grossly over tightening the fastener and may even break it. "

Gregski · May 22nd, 2010, 01:56 AM

Well I got the second exhaust manifold back on today. I tapped the holes, scraped the old gasket off, applied some anti seize and torqued the bolts.

Thank you all for following this long post and providing me your feedback, others will benefit from it, I know I did.

As always here's some pictures of the progress, and you can see more on my web page here:

Small Block Ford 302 V8 Exhaust Manifolds

May 15th, 2010, 01:03 AM	#1
Gregski Enthusiast Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 718 iTrader: 0 reviews	This is Exhausting So I picked up a Fel Pro exhaust manifold gasket set from Auto Zone again going for the cheap stuff. I used a razor type tool to scrape the old gasket off (man so much easier to work on with the engine out of the car, LOL), and a metal ruler to check my heads and see if my exhaust manifolds were worped, and they look good. Then I spent some time cleaning the old bolts with a wire prush and WD-40. And I chased the threads in the heads, [hey that rhymes] and cleaned them out really good, yes should have done it when the heads were off, but oh well. I also took the wire brush to the exhaust manifold and got some of the rust off of it. So before I put them on I have a few questions. QUSTIONS: The gaskets have a shiny metalic side and a dull side, which side goes towards the engine, which side towards the exhaust manifold or header? Two AutoZone "experts" had two different opinions! Do I put any type of goop on the gaskets or do they go on dry? My guess would be dry. What goop if anything do I put on the exhaust manifold bolts before screwing them in. I know I can rule out LockTight, jk. As I can no longer buy replacement bolts, can I replace a broken exhaust manifold bolt with a grade 5 (3 notches on the head) bolt, or should I use grade 8 (6 notches on the head). Please see picture below of the old bolts and a new grade 5 bolt.. I wonder if the rust will come back on the manifolds unless I coat them with something? thank you and you can see more of the project here: Small Block Ford 302 V8

May 16th, 2010, 06:19 PM	#2
MustangOne Lost in the 60's 1968 GT 500 Super Snake 12.6 @ 114.3 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sapulpa Oklahoma Posts: 2,053 iTrader: 0 reviews	Sinny side out , Get the good grade 5 bolt "gold ones" and take the manifolds to a machine shop to have the decked "maded Flat". Never use gasket sealer on exhuast. No lock tight. I blast my manifolds and paint them with silver 1200 deg. paint looks good for 3 months. __________________ MustangOne's Car's How to post Photos in Your Thread. Vote for your Favorite Ride of the month, Every Month Modded Mustangs Facebook

May 17th, 2010, 06:57 AM	#4
MustangOne Lost in the 60's 1968 GT 500 Super Snake 12.6 @ 114.3 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sapulpa Oklahoma Posts: 2,053 iTrader: 0 reviews	ARP bolts are great. But cost more and take longer to get. Instead of oil, use anti seize would be better. __________________ MustangOne's Car's How to post Photos in Your Thread. Vote for your Favorite Ride of the month, Every Month Modded Mustangs Facebook

May 17th, 2010, 06:27 PM	#5
69fastback Premium Member 1969 Mustang Mach 1 6.824@101.61 Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Oklahoma jackass, get to driving Posts: 5,572 iTrader: 0 reviews	If you do get the ARPs, get the 3/8 bolt head instead of the 7/16, and you'll have more room to get a wrench on. __________________ ./___ _ ____ ___ \. ( ]]] _ _ O _ _ [[[ ) \_ o _ _____ _ o _/ \|___\| ......... \|___\| http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyYU3...e_gdata_player

May 19th, 2010, 07:06 AM	#9
MustangOne Lost in the 60's 1968 GT 500 Super Snake 12.6 @ 114.3 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sapulpa Oklahoma Posts: 2,053 iTrader: 0 reviews	Ford did not use a gasket. but remember everything was new and flat. We do not have the same. So we use a gasket now. __________________ MustangOne's Car's How to post Photos in Your Thread. Vote for your Favorite Ride of the month, Every Month Modded Mustangs Facebook

May 17th, 2010, 12:14 AM	#3
Gregski Enthusiast Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 718 iTrader: 0 reviews	someone on another forum recommends "ARP stainless steel exhaust bolts never seize or rust !!! coat the threads with 30w motor oil and torque to 35 ft.lbs." Oil on the bolt threads, seriously ?

May 18th, 2010, 10:05 AM	#6
Gregski Enthusiast Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 718 iTrader: 0 reviews	Is this the stuff? Permatex, Anti-Seize Lubricant Item # 81343 (133A) Use in spark plug installation on aluminum cylinder head-equipped engines... [ahem] but if you read on it says and cast iron heads. - Prevents corrosion - Permits easy disassembly - Will not wash away (no kidding don't get it on your hands) - Eliminates galling, seizing - Lubricates - Withstands up to 1600 F Use On: - Manifold Studs - Oxygen Sensors - Hinges - EGR Fittings - Brake Anchor Pins - Head Bolts - Assemblies exposed to heat or corrosion - Spark Plug Threads when installing in aluminum or cast iron heads.

May 18th, 2010, 06:12 PM	#7
mrtleavitt Regular 1967 Coupe 20 @ 80mph? Join Date: May 2010 Location: Overton, NV Posts: 81 iTrader: 0 reviews	Yup, that's the stuff.

May 18th, 2010, 08:46 PM	#8
Gregski Enthusiast Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 718 iTrader: 0 reviews	What do you make of this comment by someone on another forum? "... wait we're talking about iron manifolds on an iron head right? i never use gaskets between them if that was the case. less chance of warping when two exact same metals are right next to each other..."

May 19th, 2010, 10:16 PM	#10
Gregski Enthusiast Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 718 iTrader: 0 reviews	OK, thank you all for your advice, I got the drive side exhaust manifold mounted using the anti seize compound and torquing the bolts to 24 ft lbs as recommended by the Haynes manual, then I saw this post on another forum: "... Also a big warning!!!!!!!! The use of any lube other than light oil will alter the torque needed to tighten the bolt/nut. The rule of thumb is to lower the torque setting by up to 30%. The anti seize reduces the friction between the threads so if you think you want 100# torque and go that tight you will be grossly over tightening the fastener and may even break it. "

May 22nd, 2010, 01:56 AM	#11
Gregski Enthusiast Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 718 iTrader: 0 reviews	Well I got the second exhaust manifold back on today. I tapped the holes, scraped the old gasket off, applied some anti seize and torqued the bolts. Thank you all for following this long post and providing me your feedback, others will benefit from it, I know I did. As always here's some pictures of the progress, and you can see more on my web page here: Small Block Ford 302 V8 Exhaust Manifolds

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