[65 B/FX]

Hi guys. Im new to this site but it looks awesome. Heres my tech headache...

1965 289 stroked to 347. New assembly w/351W heads. Started her to break it in, but having problems idleing below 1400rpm, very rough idle. Cam is .520/290 or so duration, hyd. conventional. 750 holley w/ roughly correct jetting for now. electronic ign. I relocated solenoid to wheel well, and battery to trunk(new). Ran it at approx 2500 rpm but it seems to surge 2-300 rpm when sitting at any rpm. The volts TO the dist go between 8.30 to 8.80v and change rapidly. Volts to coil are at 11.0 to 11.15. Then when I shut it down, trying to start it again is tough. Its like the battery is low but the voltage is at 12.4 or so and showing very good on the load as well. It cranks, stops, cranks,stops...etc. Starter is new and a stock 289 starter. Compression is about 11-1 estimate. Doesnt do this on a cold start, just after it has warmed up. The clearances were all checked on assembly and were good. I remember this happened along time ago on a new motor in a fastback I had, but I never found out why because I sold it.
Any advise or fixes you guys may know of? so 2 ?s, starting after running and strange idleing/running at higher rpms. Good or bad news, Ill take it. Engine makes no strange sounds other than bad running.
Thanks again,

1965 B/FX Cyclone clone

[Racinjason81]

maybe you need a hi torque starter

[69fastback]

What kind of fuel pump is on it? Does it have a pressure regulator? Sounds like you may have too much fuel psi.

That doesn't explain the starting thing, but maybe the rough running/surging problem.

[65 B/FX]

it has a electric pump at 6 pounds of pressure. Do you think the starter may be giving out when it gets hot? It is a stock starter, but the stock motor had 10.5 comp so I would think that 11.0 wouldnt be that big of a deal. Were there diff starters for the 289 HIPO motors, vs the stock 289?

[65 B/FX]

Also, can I set the lifters like a normal factory style...tdc-180-270 timing marks or does anyone have a better way. That could be giving me this headache. I cant adjust them with motor running because the oil wont stay in the head!!!High Volume Oil pumps can be a real pain in the ass.

[Horseshoeing]

I think all the starters were the same. Did you buy a rebuild starter? Take it to a starter rebuild shop. I am also thinking you might have a vaccum leak.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by 65 B/FX Hi guys. Im new to this site but it looks awesome. Heres my tech headache... 1965 289 stroked to 347. New assembly w/351W heads. Started her to break it in, but having problems idleing below 1400rpm, very rough idle. Cam is .520/290 or so duration, hyd. conventional. 750 holley w/ roughly correct jetting for now. electronic ign. I relocated solenoid to wheel well, and battery to trunk(new). Ran it at approx 2500 rpm but it seems to surge 2-300 rpm when sitting at any rpm. The volts TO the dist go between 8.30 to 8.80v and change rapidly. Volts to coil are at 11.0 to 11.15. Then when I shut it down, trying to start it again is tough. Its like the battery is low but the voltage is at 12.4 or so and showing very good on the load as well. It cranks, stops, cranks,stops...etc. Starter is new and a stock 289 starter. Compression is about 11-1 estimate. Doesnt do this on a cold start, just after it has warmed up. The clearances were all checked on assembly and were good. I remember this happened along time ago on a new motor in a fastback I had, but I never found out why because I sold it. Any advise or fixes you guys may know of? so 2 ?s, starting after running and strange idleing/running at higher rpms. Good or bad news, Ill take it. Engine makes no strange sounds other than bad running. Thanks again, 1965 B/FX Cyclone clone

Check for vacuum leaks. Spray carb cleaner around the base gasket of the carb and around the carb body and where the intake meats the heads. If the idle smoothes out or speeds up at all when you spray carb cleaner in those areas you have a vacuum leak. I'm going to assume the carb needs to be adjusted as well. Sounds like the idle mixture is way off. With that cam it should idle real mild around 800-900 rpm. The starter issue can easily be solved by getting a high torque mini starter. The mini starter will do two things for you, it will offer more torque and a smaller shell which will move it further away from your headers. The reason the problem only occurs after warm up is because the starter gets heat soaked. Summit Racing sells Powermaster starters and reasonable prices. I think they are right around $150.

Originally Posted by 65 B/FX Also, can I set the lifters like a normal factory style...tdc-180-270 timing marks or does anyone have a better way. That could be giving me this headache. I cant adjust them with motor running because the oil wont stay in the head!!!High Volume Oil pumps can be a real pain in the ass.

Here is a simple procedure that works on all engines with adjustable valve trains.

Do one cylinder at a time. When the exhaust valve for that cylinder starts to open, adjust the intake valve. When the intake valve for that cylinder starts to close, adjust the exhaust valve. Solid cams, set clearance based on cam card specs. Hydraulic cams, tighten rocker arms to zero lash and then go an additional 1/2 turn.

[65 B/FX]

thanks guys, ill try it and keep you posted!!!!

[Horseshoeing]

I have seen heat shields. Could that work?

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by Horseshoeing I have seen heat shields. Could that work?

They work sometimes on Chevys because the soleniod is on the starter. Chevys had problems with the solenoid getting hot and not functioning. Most of the time the heat shield will be a band aid for a junk starter.

[Racinjason81]

also check your battery cables too

[65 B/FX]

Found out what it was. The cam and lifters had a catastophic failure. Each lifter was sheared off about 1/4 way. The cam lobes were totally rubbed almost round. I looked into what the hell happened. Well, I guess my springs on my Dart heads were to much for the HYD cam for break in. I last used the springs on a big SOLID cam, and didnt see the fine print warning for this HYD new cam. SH*T! Get to dig the metal out of my pan and hope the rest of the bottom is ok. It ran when the rockers were smacking the hell outta the valves, etc, etc. not good. Valves seem ok, and lifter bores are unscathed thank GOD! The cyl walls have lost all the honeing and are now pretty much smooth. I thought that the cross hatching stays around longer than 20 minutes of break in! Or am I wrong. The rings are standard Moly and the exhaust doesnt blow any smoke.

[69coupe415ci]

whats your timing at?? that will make it crank like that put the timing to around 10 deg advance that will at least get it in the area of starting, and more timing is not neccessarly better .. but also 8volts at the distributor is horrible you prbably are runnning the distributor off the factory resistor wire (its a fat wire with cloth around it i beleive) get rid of that if AND your points, if your still using points because both of those are usless.. do that and call me in the morning.. lol



good luck

JOSH

[69coupe415ci]

uhhh.


nm what i said then except the 8volt part cause thats still wrong..


sorry it had a failure


JOSH