[GDK 1969]

Hi all,

I recently purchased a 66 coupe, with a 6 cyl. I plan on doing a ground up restoration on the car and switching over to either a 302 or possible a 331 (not sure yet, but it will be in the 302 block family). One of my concerns now is with getting a new wiring kit, (will it be compatable with a V8, I would like to add power windows and door locks, and other goodies) also with the front and rear suspension. I am not sure if I need or want to go with a rack and pinion system or just update the old stuff? My budget on the car is about 8000-9000 plus the paint job. I want to make the car into a daily driver and I am not looking to win any races, just have some muscle if needed. I don't mind spending the extra money on a rack and pinion, I just don't want to if it is not needed for my application.

Thanks for the help,

Gary

[nickstewartroc]

If you do the swap, could i get that 6 cyl from you? Would love to have one to redo and look nice and be able to swap it in for mine! And best of luck with the car, can't wait to see some pics!-
Nick

[fordrule]

i am also doing a v8 swap also in my 65. so i will have my drivetrain available also

[GDK 1969]

Engine and transmission is available to anyone that wants them. Just let me know and we will work something out.

Thanks,

Gary

[MustangOne]

Welcome to MM Forums Greg...

On the wiring, It is by far better to stay with the stock 1966 wiring.

It is the easiest and best wiring your car.

It has places for power windows and power door locks. It is some thing most people dont even know about.

The worst thing to get is the Pain-In-The-A ss wiring.

You have to add your own conectors to it and will take you days to install and has problems after a year.

The factory one just plugs together, and anyone can come behind you and work on it.

The Suspension, Your buget is kinda low to do everything. I would go with stock for now.

The power rack set ups are $999 to $2695 for the good ones.

Motors I always go with the one that has the most power, 351W will just fit with headers. Cost the same to build a 331 & 420.

Your transmission, If is a C4 you can use it on the V8 motor. Just change the bell housing and torque converter. A I6 & V8 C4 are the same.

[fordrule]

interesting. I wasn't aware that the C4 can be inter-changed between the v8 and I6. thanks for the info

[TStephenson]

MustangOne
Newbie here. So you are recommending get a factory wiring harness or leaving it alone all together?

[GDK 1969]

Mustangone

Where is the best place to get the stock wiring harness? Does it come complete from bumper to bumper, so to speak?

I really didn't think my budget was that low, it's not high either. I wasn't going to go crazy with the motor. I was thinking just going with 620 coil springs, dropped one inch, roller perches. Anything else you might recomend?

I want to go with disc brakes all the way around, any suggestion on ones that are better than others?

Motor wise, I wanted to stay with something in the 302 family. I already have a block and some parts so that will keep the cost down.

I have the 3 speed transmission so I will more than likely be updating that.

Thanks for all the help!

Gary

[MustangOne]

Originally Posted by TStephenson MustangOne Newbie here. So you are recommending get a factory wiring harness or leaving it alone all together?

If you can save your under dash wiring, I do. that is $400.

The rest I would buy new.

1. headlight side $109.00
2. Alt Feed $24
3. Engine Feed $19
4. Tail light side $99

So that is $251, you have it made.

Disc ofn the front is a must, Disc on the rear is for show. Id say the $700 on the rear disc and add it to stereo or some thing.

The 3 speed on the 6 is a small on and you will need to replace it.


We Sell it all also, TCI & Wiring. Ill be glad to help you out on the phone and here.

800.215.0678

[GDK 1969]

Mustangone,

So your recomending not to replace the underdash wiring? And if you do that is a $400 option? I know you do this more than me but it would seem to be wise to go ahead and replace it if your there and doing a total restoration?

So you are saying TCI is the way to go on the suspension, if I am not going rack and pinion?

I called your shop, I talked to an older guy, he really acted a little confused at first. He then gave me to a lady, I believe her name was laura, (at least it started with an "L").

Thanks for the help, just trying to get my ducks in a row so I don't order stuff I don't need or really want.

Gary

[MustangOne]

The factory underdash wiring is a nice piece. If it is in good shape and the fuse box is good, conectors are good. It would use it. If not, I would buy the new underdash also. It is $399.
Yes, The old guy is my father. He is the one that got into Mustang when I was a little kid. Me and him restored our frist Mustang back in 1979 when I was 13. It is a 1965 GT convertible that we still own. Me and him have been in the Mustang Mountly 3 times now. Since that first Mustang I am just now finishing my 138 Mustang Restoration, It is on a 1969 Mach1 428. Dad is 75 now and it is hard to let him know that he doesn't know it all anymore. He is still old school and thinks every car should be restored stock. If you need to talk to me this is my direct line, 918.260.2649 . I work in the restoration shop all day with my crew. We have a few cars that we are trying to get ready for the Daytona Turkey rod run show over Thanksgiving. At times it seems like we are just like the show overhualin. Trying to meet crazy dead lines to get these cars done.

[GDK 1969]

Mustangone,

Thanks for all your help. Starting this project is making me pull my hair out. It seems like everytime I make a decision on a part, something else dicatates that I might want to do something different.

If I go back stock with the front suspension, what would you recommend doing that with. I want to go back a little beefer, so to speak, and I would like to drop it an inch with the springs and so forth like I said before.

That must have been your Dad that I talked to, I could tell he was old school, but there is nothing wrong with that.

Again thanks for your help.

Gary

[GDK 1969]

Well my son and I yanked out the ole inline six this weekend. We pretty much pulled all of the body parts off of the front clip. Everything looked decent except the panel where the battery is, we will have to get a new panel for that. I will post some pictures when I get some time.

Thanks for the help,

Gary

[Countryboy_99]

You might consider relocating the battery to the trunk, and just remove what's left of the panel. Really helps to clean up the engine bay and also redistribute some weight from the nose to the rear.

[nickstewartroc]

Hey GDK 1969 whens the best time to call you?

[BOLDT]

Originally Posted by Countryboy_99 You might consider relocating the battery to the trunk, and just remove what's left of the panel. Really helps to clean up the engine bay and also redistribute some weight from the nose to the rear.

battery in the trunk is not recommended unless it is a sealed race battery (for safety reasons), fyi, thats what I have been told...

[BOLDT]

the stock mustang front suspension is actually pretty good once you do a shelby upper control arm swap. however being that you need a whole new front end and brakes to upgrade from the inline 6 you might want to consider dropping the bucks on a complete front end kit. It might seem like an expensive hit right now but you would wind up spending most of that anyways to put together a new stock front end, and will all of the money that you will be spending on this car go for good steering/suspension. if you do , you might want to go with a rear sump engine, 351w gets the most bang for the buck.
$.02

[Countryboy_99]

Originally Posted by BOLDT battery in the trunk is not recommended unless it is a sealed race battery (for safety reasons), fyi, thats what I have been told...

He may be right here, as I have heard nothing on the safety of relocating the battery (good or bad). I do know there are several aftermarket manufacturers who sell battery relocation kits which include a sealed box you bolt into the trunk and usually the extra length of battery cable. A kit like that was what I was suggesting when I posted before. Popular Hot Rodding's Street Fighter Mustang has one (where I got the idea). Here's the link: http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...kit/index.html

[GDK 1969]

Countryboy 99 - Thanks for the tip on the battery location, I won't be racing this thing so I really don't think I will be moving it to the back. I am not really worried to much about the extra weight, but thanks anyway.

BoldT-That is what has been going thru my head, (trying to figure out which route to go. I know I want to do the shelby drop, add lower 620 springs and roller perches. As for the engine, I already have a rebuildable 302 block so I think I will stick with it, just for cost reasons.

Nick - Anytime is good, I do have a guy that has looked at it and is on the fence about getting it. (Just to let you know)

All - I have had classes the first part of the week, hopefully I will get my pics up tonight or tomorrow, Thanks again for all the help.

Gary

[BOLDT]

Originally Posted by GDK 1969 BoldT-That is what has been going thru my head, (trying to figure out which route to go. I know I want to do the shelby drop, add lower 620 springs and roller perches. As for the engine, I already have a rebuildable 302 block so I think I will stick with it, just for cost reasons. Gary

I think I'd stick with the 302 as well, and you will have no problems fitting headers etc if you stick with a stock engine. you may not want the lowered stiff springs if you do the shelby drop, you might wind up sitting a bit too low and riding a bit too rough for a driver. I've heard of guys going with the -8 (351c/bb) springs and cutting them to get the right lowered ride height, pita, but you can estimate the built front end weight and use sand bags to weigh it down, make the ride height adjustment before it is all together.

sorry, I am a newbie to the forum, you guys have probably discussed all this stuff to death...