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#201 | |
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MM's king of Neon's
404 - car not found
17.81@87
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Diesel Engine Capital of the World, Columbus, IN
Posts: 7,376
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If you do go back and touch areas up with body filler, you'll have to sand back down to bare metal before application. That was one of the cardinal body work rules I was taught, bondo should be applied to nothing but bare sanded metal. Then you get to sand it flat, prime it, and feather the edges back into the first coat of primer. Not always so bad, then you get to learn how to feather, which is valuable when doing spot painting. Just for future reference, here's the sequence of events I usually use: metalwork, coarse body filler, lightweight body filler, high build/filler primer, primer, color, clear. With copious amounts of block sanding in there of course. I don't know if you already knew this, but I just want to make sure you don't end up laying bondo on top of primer, and see a chunk of your paint fly off when you're driving down the road some day.
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Official Secondhand Snake Build Thread Here Looks Like a Cobra, Sounds Like a Cobra, Tastes Like a Cobra, Not a Cobra. For Sale: P71 Interceptor motor ![]() |
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#202 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 718
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Noted, though epoxy is an entirely different animal than regular primer, technically I still need to weld shut the body trim holes so I will be stripping the epoxy to bare metal to weld those, then grinding the welds down flush, then bondo on to bare metal as you pointed out, then epoxy, then build primer, yaha, yada yada
though as with most things in the automotive industry there are two schools of thought on the subject of body filler on bare metal vs body filler on epoxy primer, enough so to warrant guys doing comparisons such as this one, a bit extreme testing methodology if you ask me but worth sharing Epoxy or No Epoxy Under Filler - Autobodystore |
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#203 |
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Enthusiast
'95 GT
Was probably faster before I got it.
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 861
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That is some good looking metal.
I was sent a dvd from hot rod all about body work and sheet metal prep. Makes me actually do some stuff like this, not to the scale you are. But like a just do an individual panel for someone or something.
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Its red, long, and comes with an 8 foot bed attached. Wanna come play with it? ![]()
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#204 |
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Regular
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you make it look so easy wish my 65,70 and 88 where going that easy lol
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#205 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 36
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Dude where you at? I have been following this for about 5 weeks now and you disappeared for 2 weeks? Good stuff!
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#206 | |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 718
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1968 289 H20 |
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#207 |
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Look Ma! My First Post!
1968 Mustang Coupe
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 1
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I have a 68 also. i did the motor work, now it's time for prime and paint. Since you have experience now, wanna do mine?? j/k i will be referring to your posts. thank you. and oh yeah, bump bump for optimus!!
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#208 | |
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Regular
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 103
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#209 | |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 718
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#210 |
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Regular
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 103
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Now we can all follow along, you've become quite the popular poster man, I'm glad to be able to say that I knew you when you were just a nobody with the rusted roof issue,...now you're a somebody with a pretty good following.
You'll probably be needing your very own forum,...Gregski.com,...can I be a Mod,...please?
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#211 |
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Newbie
1966 mustang I-6
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Sac, CA
Posts: 2
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Great write-ups! I can't wait now to start on mine. Reading that you live in Sac gave me even more inspiration. Thanx. Hope I can see your car in person some day.
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