[Gregski]

In this post I would like to share with you the process I will go through to prime (or primer) I don't even know which one is proper, my 1968 Mustang coupe.

Why primer the car?

Well it looks like crap, and in order to get motivated to turn a wrench on it I can't have it look so depressing. Also I want to protect it from rust and prep it for a paint job.

I am doing this post for two reasons.

1. To ensure I stay motivate and committed to get this done.

2. To solicit your help and advice along the way.

A little background about myself. I am a computer nerd by trade. I have never primed and or painted a car before. I did however wet sand, primer, and paint a motorcycle before, and boy that was a lot of work. I swore never to do it again.

I don't have the money to have this professionally done and even if I did I would still attempt it myself to learn and enjoy the process and the results. My budget is to spend $100 per month on the car to bring her back to a daily driver condition.

Now to set our expectations. I am not going for A results, B is good enough for me. Now that is not saying I will put in half @ss effort into this, I will work my butt off, but A being the work of a professional with years of experience and all the proper tools, my B is going to be the best an amateur can expect. Also I allow myself to make mistakes and roll with the punches.

So sit back pop open a cold one or pour yourself a hot cup of coffee and don't hold back those "otta boys!" LOL

[Gregski]

Ok, so first thing's first. What are we up against here? Let's see the canvas if you will. Well here it is, the way she looked the day I bought her. Some of you may have seen it already when I bragged about landing this beauty for a mere $800 bucks and a firm hand shake, others may have been spared till now.

[Gregski]

so I have to be honest with you, the original plan was simple, buy the car, run by the local AutoZone and pick up 10 cans of gray primer for $1.99 each, put on some Lynyrd Skynyrd and hopefully by the time the last track of Nuthin' Fancy plays I would have a rattle canned gray car... BUT [and for those of you who have ever taken on a project car, you'll agree there's always a but] then I decided to learn how to properly remove surface rust from the roof and more importantly keep it from coming back. I also learned that not all primer was created equal. So Plan A quickly turned to Plan B.

PLAN B

Phase 1 - The Rusted Roof

Phase 2 - The Trunk and Rear End

Phase 3 - The Doors and Door Jams

Phase 4 - The Front End

I decided to break up the project into 4 phases for the following reasons. First I knew I could only work on the car on Fridays, and there's no way I could strip, prep, and prime the entire car in 1 day, [not even if Chip Foose and the crew of Overhaulin' did return my phone calls, but they didn't] I also did not want to strip a section to bare metal, like the roof for example and have it sit naked for weeks if not months until I was ready to prime it. Also working on a section of a car would keep me focused and give me a sense of accomplishment, [we do live in the age of instant gratification after all]. So just like my daddy would say if he was into cars, we start at the top and move our way from front to back, well sorta. We start at the top and move our way from back to front, since we don't have a hood, in hopes that we acquire one by the time it's time to do the front, LOL.

However priming a car in phases does have it's downsides. I would have to clean up after each phase, not only the car, but my work area ie the garage, but also the spray gun, etc. rather than just once at the end. I would need to run to the store for primer 4 times, (I like a fresh small can of primer, that they wiggle for me that day, rather than a large can I open and try and reseal and then sits on a shelf in my garage for weeks and settles).

More on the types of primer and my choice later...

[steelcityfan29]

Well I think you got a hell of a deal, I spent way more on my 69 thats not in much better shape LOL. The body looks great on that one other than the paint or primer you're doing.

I'm also a computer nerd by trade had never fixed anything... on my first muscle car but have built two jeep Cherokees over the last 3 years with nothing more than a couple buddies and google and youtube LOL. Just remember JACKSTANDS AND RAMPS! those will make your life easy.. a torch and some PB Buster will help a lot too. Though thats not for body work but I assume you know that.

Good luck to you and I will keep an eye on it. IF I knew ANYTHING about body work I would offer advice but all I have ever done is fiberglass work and it was small patches so nothing with paint really at all.

Good luck

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by steelcityfan29 I'm also a computer nerd by trade had never fixed anything...

Well a shout out to the Nerd Herd than, LOL!!! and I'm still trying to grow out some balls to use a torch, maybe before the end of the year, do they come with a complimentary fire extinguisher? jk

[BOLDT]

fun stuff, the body looks real nice.

my suggestions:
1) buy a jug of the strongest paint stripper that you can buy. Use this first, use long gloves and goggles.
2) buy a 3m paint stripper disc, one of those round black spongy scotchbright attachments for your drill.
3) buy a can or two of self etching primer
4) buy a high quality respirator

Work as small a section as you feel comfortable in the time frame that you are working in. if it is only enough to do a few square feet at a time that's fine. use the chemical stripper to remove as much as possible, to avoid turning the old toxic paint into breathable dust. then use the 3m paint stripper, careful not to generate too much heat and warm the sheet metal. then spray some self etching primer. and so on and so fourth till the car is all one color. be thorough and meticulous about removing the paint and rust, take your time and don't rush it, this is important foundation work.

theres my 2 cents, have fun...

[Aceswild 02]

Me and my grandpa built a 66 coupe when I was a kid. He bought the car when I was 13 and we worked on it every weekend during school and almost every day during the summers until I was 16 (he made me do the bulk of the work, to learn how to do everything). It wasn't in quite as bad shape as this one, but I definitely got burned out a few times and had to get re-motivated. Just enjoy the process of the project and when you get burnt out work on something that allows you to see the progress. A lot of time is spent on doing tedious work that is not very rewarding...but you have to enjoy it all! Good luck man!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by BOLDT fun stuff, the body looks real nice. my suggestions: 3) buy a can or two of self etching primer ... then spray some self etching primer.

good advice, as far as #3 above word on the street is Epoxy Primer trumps Etching Primer, stay tunned...

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Aceswild 02 ... but I definitely got burned out a few times and had to get re-motivated. Just enjoy the process of the project and when you get burnt out work on something that allows you to see the progress. A lot of time is spent on doing tedious work that is not very rewarding...but you have to enjoy it all!

Thank you Aces, sounds like you have a wonderful grandfather, make sure you thank him for that experience and all that he has taught you. And thank you for the words of encouragment, we all could use them at times, especially when I'm still in the take stuff off phase and haven't bolted anything back on, LOL.

[Aceswild 02]

Originally Posted by Gregski Thank you Aces, sounds like you have a wonderful grandfather, make sure you thank him for that experience and all that he has taught you. And thank you for the words of encouragment, we all could use them at times, especially when I'm still in the take stuff off phase and haven't bolted anything back on, LOL.

No problem man! I sure do have a wonderful grandfather...he taught me a lot. He spent most of his life re-building cars. He recently gave me his 1940 Buick Special that he has owned for 50 years or so. Its all original, but he hasnt been able to work on it in years, so he turned it over to me. To show my appreciation I am in the process of restoring it to original condition. I would like for him to be able to see it in the shape it was once in before its too late! Also going to feature the car in my wedding and leave for my honeymoon in it! I think he will be pretty excited to see it. Im gonna have to put the stang build on hold until Im done, but Im super pumped about the Buick restoration!

Good luck again man! and thanks!

[Gregski]

Introducing the starting line up.

1. 5 Inch Random Orbital Sander - Harbor Freight $20 bucks

2. 4 Inch Angle Grinder - Harbor Freight $15 bucks

3. Eye Protection - too old to remember where I got them

4. Air Mask - Home Depot $40 bucks

If our 5 inch work horse orbital sander is the Running Back, then that makes the 4 inch angle grinder our Full Back. So just as you rely on the RB to get you the easy 6 yards on a first and 10 ie strip off a coat of paint, you need the FB to get you that tough yard on third and 1, ie grind the rust off of those stubborn places.

Under the Safety First Column, we have the eye goggles, a must when using the wire wheel on the angle grinder, loose wires fly all over the place, and for those fans of oxygen, the air mask.

These four tools are a must, I will add the optional nice to have tools in the next post.

[Gregski]

Standing 24 inches tall and making a career out of sucking is our clean up hitter, the mighty Shop Vac aka R2D2. Not necessarily a must have, but definately a nice to have. $30 bucks from Harbor Freight and I love it, works great.

One of these triangular tool jobies, but only if you can borrow it from a your friend. It does get into those hard to reach places if you don't want to rely on handrolics and elbow grease.

Full face shield (Home Depot), it has it's place but in the winter it fogs up from your breath and it makes it difficult to see, gloves (preferably one for each hand, and not 3 sets for the right hand only, remember to kick the dog for that one) also from Home Depot.

now time for a Disclaimer and I hate disclaimers, but...

This is not a How To Prime Your Car post, this is How I Primed My Car post. Your help and advice is greatly appreciated, however I am not an expert body man / painter, nor do I play one on TV!

[Gregski]

I know what you're thinking, are we gonna sit here and list all the cheap tools, or are we actually gonna get something done? LOL

So we join the action late in the first quarter, where Greg has jumped out to an early lead having completed Phase 1 - The Rusted Roof of the project.

What? How the he11 did he do that, this post just got started?

For an instant replay and excruciating step by step detail please visit the original post entitled Restoring a Rusted Roof

Below are some photos summarizing the strip down process.

[BOLDT]

ok fine, this car is already restored isn't it? just show us the finished pics already!

just joking, looks good! careful not to generate too much heat with the sanding tools or it might get a bit wavy...

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by BOLDT ok fine, this car is already restored isn't it? just show us the finished pics already!

Nope, I wish it was, LOL!

[Gregski]

Oh man it's a re run! Hang on, we're just getting up to speed.

And here are the photos of the primer being applied and the finished product. Remember although I had no runs, at this phase of the game, runs are not a big deal as they can and will be sanded down. Same can be said for the orange peal, which again I am happy to report I managed to avoid. Pardon me while I try not to sprain my elbow padding myself on the back.

[Gregski]

One of the first lessons I learned was that no primer is created equal. There are what I like to refer to as two lines of primer, amateur (one part) and professional (two part) types of product.

The first one is the stuff in a spray can we are all familiar with. This is the stuff you can buy at you local Auto Zone parts store or at Walmart. This product is pre mixed and ready to go. Just shake the can, press the button and apply. This sounds wonderful, however I learned sacrifices had to be made to make this happen, (read the Two Part paragraph below to see how). I am not knocking this type of product I am just trying to point out the differences.

The second type of primer is what the pros use. This product is made up of two and sometimes three separate solutions that you mix. For example you take what's in the first container ie primer, and you add to it something called a "hardener" from the second container. (Different manufacturers may refer to their second product by different names, ie "activator".) The ratios differ as well, it could be a 2:1 ratio it could be something else, the instructions tell you how to mix it. The third solution may be optional, and it is called the "reducer" it basically thins out your concoction making it easier to come out of the spray gun. Once the primer hits the car, the "reducer's" job is done, it begins to evaporate. When you mix the two solutions you have to wait, allowing them time to react, this is called "induction time" it's like adding sugar to your coffee, you need to allow it time to dissolve. But unlike sugar in coffee which dissolves in seconds, this concoction may take minutes, 15 or more, etc. Ok so now you waited the 15 minutes, now you enter the "pot life" phase. This is the time you have to spray your car before your primer is no longer any good. Going back to our coffee example, this is how long you have to drink it before it gets cold. But unlike coffee which you can pop back into the microwave and warm it up again, your primer mixture is wasted.

Ok, so now you see why we can't buy the two part "good stuff" at Walmart. It's because it would be hard as a rock or coagulated like rubber, since it would have been days, weeks, even months since it was pre mixed for us at the factory. Now there are some manufacturers out there making two part primer in an aerosol can, but they have you pull some kind of a rip cord to get the solutions to mix before spraying, so technically although they are in the same can there is still some sort of barrier between them. Although I have never used their product, I think it is cost prohibitive to do an entire car with. You could also possibly ask your local professional car paint supplier to pre mix some two part primer for you and shove it in an aerosol can, hoping that by the time you drive home you can shoot it that day, I think.

Now this does sound a bit intimidating, but it is so easy even a cave man could do it, and believe me, no one hated chemistry in high school more than me.

I ended up using a Two Part Epoxy primer that you need to mix.

[Gregski]

With the roof primed and Phase 1 completed it is time to move on to The Trunk and Rear End

Phase 2 begins with the removal of parts. (I believe it is worth sharing how these come off as I personally was a bit surprised how they are held on). I may not call some of these do dads properly so please feel free to correct me.

1. Rear Fender Side Marker Lights ('68 and up models)

2. Quarter Panel Trim (older models referred to theirs as three fingers)

3. Rocker Panel Side Trim

4. Trunk Lid Letters "MUSTANG" (mine had no chrome trim piece)

5. Rear Fender Extensions Molding

6. Tail Lights

7. Rear Bumper Guards

My "aftermarket" third tail light mounted on top of the trunk lid (you probably won't have one of these)

Rear mud flaps, again I hope you don't have any of these either.

[zinc-vert02]

looking good dude

[Gregski]

removing these little guys, one from the driver side and one from the passenger side of the car, reveals a bit of the history, like in my case you can see the vehicle did not have a premium second paint job, since these guys were left on and only taped off prior to being painted.

They were held on with two nuts and screws each, which you get to from the inside of the trunk. I didn't realize they are only reflectors, and do not have a bulb and any electrical wiring going to them.