[Gregski]

I hope to have the engine bay covered in POR15 by the end of June, so here we go, the disassembly continues with the AC / Heater Core cluster/unit call it what you will, I don't plan on putting any of it back, so I will fab a plate to cover this entire opening

[Gregski]

This corner is a bear to wire wheel and clean, very crowded in there with the wiring, master cylinder, and steering box all living in there. Well at least the cylinder comes out, note the cotter pin that holds it to the brake pedal on the inside of the cab.

I cleaned it up a bit just for the hell of it to show you all the crud that was inside of it, although I will trade it in for a new one.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by ajzride So where's the picture of the engine bay? Come on man, I showed you mine, show me yours!

Trust me man I'm tryin' I'm trying... I went and looked at your thread again, and I can't believe how quickly you knocked it out, and yes I took your advice and brought in the heavy hitter as well, aka the twisty wire brush wheel thingie, so here's a shot of it being almost ready, I put in a few hours after I took this pic

[Gregski]

Well it was more like a controlled drop! All I had to do is undo the speedo cable, and apparently some throttle linkage, and two long bolts that held the cross member to the chassy and with a jack I gently lowered her down, I was too lazy to drag her out into the open to take pictures so you will just have to trust me that she is resting on the floor of the garage

anywho, could someone please explain to me why in the world the throttle linkage is hooked up to the transmission? that must be an automatic car type of thing cause I have not seen it on sticks, it may explain why some carbs say they are for automatics as well, and not all carbs are created equal

[ajzride]

Originally Posted by Gregski anywho, could someone please explain to me why in the world the throttle linkage is hooked up to the transmission? that must be an automatic car type of thing cause I have not seen it on sticks, it may explain why some carbs say they are for automatics as well, and not all carbs are created equal

It is so that when you stomp on the gas, the transmission will automatically downshift. Called the "kickdown" cable.

[ajzride]

I found a new friend tonight that might help you with that firewall. The wire wheel still works best for the big stuff, but this actually does a better job of getting the fine rust and stubborn paint spots off:

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by ajzride I found a new friend tonight ...

ooh I'm telling the wire wheel you're cheatin' on her... and I'll give the sponge a shot... are you saying it's sponge worthy (quick what show, and don't Google it, lol)

[Gregski]

I decide to remove the Cowl Brace, plural I guess as there are two of them one per shock tower. Anyway as someone pointed out these are not to be mistaken for an Export Brace as that is an [ahem] performance doodad and a single piece that ads stiffness to your ride.

So here they are off the car and as they meet their date with destiny, aka the wire wheel. I may be getting too comfortable with my big 4 inch as I am beginning to hold the piece with one hand and work the grinder with the other. Just a matter of time till it kicks back and slams me in the face, you read it here first folks. (Full face shields on!)

[Gregski]

I think I mentioned the "handlebars" aka the front cross member in the syster post 1968 289 H2O regardless here it is all cleaned up. I am thinkin' black for the sheets and gray for the sticks that way we will have some contrast. Some guys differentiate based on stationary and moving pieces, but we don't wanna split hairs. So this part will end up gray.

[Gregski]

well although the engine bay is the primary concern, I am also going to clean up and paint the area hidden behind the front fenders, this is where some of you will say take off the control arms / suspension and do it right, and I'll say well I don't wanna do that cause I won't know how it goes back together, like I said with the engine and the transmission and you all see how that ended up, LOL

anywho for now I keep poking at the nooks and cranies with a long flat screw driver and a hammer, like an ancient Pyramid builder or something, uncovering tons of chunks of dirt, when you poke in there you may think you got it all, then you bust out a piece that is and inch and a half thick, THICK people, the area below the upper control arm was designed to collect dirt and dust, it's like a little 8 by 3 inch tray, a tinny cookie sheet if you will for grime, yes it does have two drain holes on either side but those probably clogged up as the car made it's way on to the loading dock from the factory, jk

so here's what I dug out of there

[Israel]

I cleaned it up a bit just for the hell of it to show you all the crud that was inside of it, although I will trade it in for a new one.



Imposter,....the real Greg would never have given in so easy on a replacement.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Israel Imposter,....the real Greg would never have given in so easy on a replacement.

Brace yourself for a Scooby Doo ending...

[Gregski]

Rule Number 1 of Father's Day for the uninitiated, the Father does what the Family wants to do... ie Family Time, pronounced No Work On The Mustang. We had a nice father's day weekend, went to the lake and got a sunburn, and my wallet, and blackberry stolen... minor set back point being I lost another weekend.

[Gregski]

Heck I removed everything else, why not drop this thing out of the way right? This would allow me to clean out all the crud behind the steering box, and learn me about steering linkages, a win win in my book. Plus I won't end up with everything covered in POR15 black, I hate it when it looks like someone just took a rattle can to the engine bay and bombed it all.

So two bolts on the passenger side, and three bolts on the driver side, and whalla...

[Gregski]

Ok, undo two bolts on the left, drop the idler arm, remove three bolts on the right drop the .32 caliber bullet... What The F... ???

Ok, had this been a 9mm or a .40 Smith & Wesson sure no problem, but a .32 behind a manual steering box that's just bizzare, LOL

by the way I have no clue what I am talking about when it comes to guns and amo, I just googled it

[ajzride]

.32 was very popular in the 60's and early 70's before the .38 special come onto the scene. I find it more interesting that it is just a casing. Where is the lead?

[Gregski]

there the engine bay is done, how long did that take?, one, two, three weekends, what? THREE FRIGGEN MONTHS - well technically I did fart around with the engine once I pulled it out for a while

can you do this job in a weekend?, all the props in the world to you [youngsters] if you can, maybe a solid three day Holiday weekend, with no interruptions, and a helping hand or two, but not for a married guy with children and other obligations, just being realistic, and setting your expectations, remember this is not a race or a contest, you will feel way better if you take your time and do it right

did I get any on my skin, well heck yes I did, that stuff is expensive, and I didn't want any to go to waste, yes I did wear jeans and a long sleeve when I painted, this stuff went through my jeans

now about those control arms, LOL, yes they will be coming off later on when they get new bushings, yes they will be painted with POR15 as well, the sticks will be gray and the arms black

what's up next for Greg? well I am going to tackle the rusted floor boards, but don't hold your breath waiting on a thread, there's been plenty of floor board threads in the wild already

pic 1 - all prepped and ready for paint

pic 2 - after the first coat

pic 3 - after the second coat

pic 4 - well you get the idea...

A huge THANK YOU to all of you who have followed along, read, posted, tried to help, much appreciated.

[MustangOne]

That is looking really good

[ajzride]

Is it staying black, or getting colored with the car?