[69fastback]

And before it's mentioned, it says "unless it's bone stock.".

Here's some questions to answer. Do you KNOW that your block has never been decked? Do you KNOW that your heads have never been milled? If you put a '69 head on a '76 block, do you KNOW that they used the exact same lifter? Have you put replacement lifters in it, because if you have, that automatically requires a re measure. Do you KNOW that the '69 used the same rocker as a '76?

I can almost guarantee that a '76 block has been decked at some point, and I can say the same for a set of '69 heads.



It's your engine, and I'm just trying to help make it right. If you don't want to measure, then don't, but the consequences could be anywhere from just having a noisy valvetrain, to serious internal damage.

[67ATX]

Im all for measuring, but I still need specs to confirm the measurements.
I have no idea if the heads have been milled, and I dont believe the block has been decked. New lifters will come in my rebuild kit

[69fastback]

What kind of specs do you need, if you are going to measure?

[67ATX]

Sorry I didn't read the end of page 1 (I'm on my iPhone)
Can I just ask the machine shop what size pushrods I'll need? Since they have my block and heads

[69fastback]

Only if they assemble it, and measure it. There is no way of telling without measuring it on your engine, once it's assembled.

[67ATX]

Ok I catch your drift now, thanks for all the info man!
Now, these C9OEs have adjustable rockers. Does that change anything?

[69fastback]

Not really. Just make sure you have the the correct rockers, and if you use roller rockers, you'll need guide plates. Once you have your rockers, and everything, then you'll measure for pushrods.

[67ATX]

I planned on using the C9OE rockers. So I'm going to need one of those COMP Cams® Hi-Tech™ Pushrod Length Checkers to measure. And I would just unscrew the measuring rod until it seats nicely on the bottom of the rocker? Sorry if I'm makin you dumb this down lol. I'm not highly familiar with roller motors yet but I catch on quickly.

[69fastback]

Now worries man. Everyone has to learn it some way, and I'd hate to see someone throw something together, and it not last.


I've never used the hi tech one. I use the plain old length checker. It's sounds difficult, and is kind of a long process to explain, but it's actually pretty easy.

Once the heads are torqued down, with the gaskets in place, you need to set 0 lash. To do this, you need to get the cam on it's base circle.

1: Rotate the engine in it's normal direction of rotation. Watch the exhaust valve on the cylinder you are setting. Right at the point the EXHAUST valve starts to move, you are ready to set the INTAKE valve.

2: For checking pushrod length, you want 0 lash, meaning no rocker preload. 0 lash is the point at which all the "slack" is out of the valvetrain. Loosen the rocker adjustment nut off of the intake valve, to the point where everything is loose. Slowly start to tighten the adjustment nut with one hand, while spinning the pushrod with the other. At the point where you just feel a little bit of tension while spinning the pushrod, stop tightening the adjustment nut. You should be right at 0 lash. It should not be pressing the plunger down in the lifter, and there should be no slack. It's a very fine line.


Once you're at 0 lash, you're ready to find your pushrod length. I forgot to add at the beginning, you either need a set of lightweight test valve springs, or you can convert one of your lifters to a solid lifter, to do this check. A hydraulic lifter will let the plunger move with normal valve springs, causing you to get false results.

3: first, paint the tip of the valve with a paint pen, or cover it in a light coat of grease. Set your adjustable length checker to where the rocker tip is centered on the valve stem tip. Rotate the engine over a few times, then carefully remove the rocker. Note the pattern made in the grease, or paint. The pattern the rocker leaves should be thin, and centered. If the pattern is farther on the intake side, the pushrod is too short. If it's towards the exhaust side, it's too long. Make adjustments, until it's thin and centered.

Once you get the desired pattern, use a micrometer to measure the pushrod.

4: starting from the point we left off in step 1, continue to rotate the engine. The exhaust valve, will open, and close. Continue to rotate until the intake valve fully opens, and then closes approximately 2/3 the way. Now you are ready to find 0 lash on the EXHAUST valve. From that point repeat steps 2 and 3.



I hope this helps out. Don't be discouraged, because it can sound intimidating, but it's really not hard, once you get in there and do it. Feel free to ask any questions, if I was unclear.

On another note, when you have your pushrods, and you're putting the engine together, you'll go through the same process of finding the base circle, and 0 lash for every valve. At the point of 0 lash, you will turn the adjustment nut another 1/2 turn to set your preload.

[67ATX]

Ok, I read this about 3 times and I think I have a pretty good understanding. How would I convert one of the hydraulic lifters into a solid lifter? Because I have all the old lifters, assuming the new ones will be the same - could modify one of those? Or is this modification reversible? Allowing me to modify one of the new ones and then change it back to hydraulic? I have no knowledge of the difference between hydraulic and solid lifters btw haha

[69fastback]

Let's see if I can make this work. I'm copying and pasting from another site, on my iPad.


Need a solid roller lifter to check piston-to-valve clearance on your hydraulic roller cammed 5.0L or 5.8L Ford?

Save a couple bucks and make your own out of an old stock lifter. The lifter at left (below) is a disassembled stocker. To turn it into a checking lifter, you trash the spring and flip the main plunger 180 degrees until your lifter looks like the one in the center.



The lifter on the right (above) is the finished product, marked with a yellow band so it won't get mixed up with its hydraulic cousins.

Do It Yourself Checking Roller Lifter

So you want to check piston-to-valve clearance on your hydraulic roller cammed small block Ford, but don't have the cash for an expensive solid checking lifter? Then do what hot rodders have always done: make your own. It's actually pretty simple: just take the lifter apart, grind .020 in. off the main plunger, remove the spring, flip the main plunger around, and reassemble. Presto -- a solid checking lifter.

[69fastback]

Man, that picture came out pixilated.

Here's the link. It's towards the bottom.

http://www.trickflow.com/articles/stroker_1/#

[67ATX]

Will an auto part store have an adjustable pushrod measuring tool? Also, Idk where i'm gonna find a micrometer to borrow :/

[69fastback]

They may have one. If not, summit sells them for like $10. An auto parts store will have a micrometer. Usually the cheap ones are about $25.

[67ATX]

Really? I thought micrometers to be $300 but I guess thats just the super fancy ones we use in tech class. Thats alot more reasonable though.

Thanks for all the info man, I think you answered every one of my questions within a day lol.

[69fastback]

Good luck, man!