[Frankenstank]

I have a 65 coupe and a 88 5.0 5spd and had a few questions I am a little foggy on and was hoping for a push in the right direction.

1. Cable or hydraulic

I was looking at this for hydraulic with push slave
CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY
Should it be floor or swing mount?
Breaks will most likely be swing so I am leaning towards swing

2. This for brakes
6.25-1 RATIO REVERSE MOUNT BRAKE PEDAL KIT
With 1in & 1in bores or 1in for front and 3/4 for rear
Front disc rear drum. Will eventually do disc conversion on rear
but that will be a while.
I also have never driven a non power brake system! Will the brake be hard to push?
Like when you run out of vacuum in a power brake system ?

3. Cross member/ trans mount
I have read that it is necessary when doing the swap but that
usually if you buy the trans separate. Since I have the 88 as a
donor car could I just use that cross member?

4. Drive shaft
Haven't found anything on this but will the 88's shaft be the correct
length when installed in the 65? And will the flange mount to the 9in
rear when the 88 had an 8.8 rear?



5. Using 88 pedals
I have not crawled under the dash to see if I could rig up the 88's
pedals to the 65 some how. Has anyone done or heard of it being
done?



Thanks for the help I appreciate it!

[MustangOne]

1. I have not been able to see a hydraulic set up work well yet.

2. & 5. You should be able to make the 88 set up work better that he ones you are looking at. I wopuld use the Master cylender from a 88 to 93 GT Mustang.

3. You can buy the correct crossmember for the 65 for the T-5 crossmember.

4. Drive shaft can be shorten easy.

[Frankenstank]

How much does shortening a shaft cost?
I don't imagine it is to much more for a alum shaft?

[ajzride]

I paid $55 to have mine shortened, then if it needs balancing after cutting (which it probably will) it was another $50. Aluminum driveshaft is in the hundreds of dollars range:

http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/19...veline-51.html

[ajzride]

MustangOne has already mentioned hydraulics, but you could also ask 69Fastback:

69fastback transformation thread

I'm using a z-bar setup from a 1969 + top-loader in my 1965 with a 351w, and have not had any problems yet. I'm sure if the z-bar will clear my headers, they will clear just about any 5.0 headers.

[Frankenstank]

I have heard a little about the z-bar but still have no clue as to what it actually is.

Guess I need to get off my lazy but and Google it.
Unless someone wants to spoon feed me?


As for the hydro sounds like the prob was the wrong part.

I was leaning towards hydro(lighter pedal) wife will be driving it to. But I guess i am back on the fence now.

Who knows I have some time till I get to that point.

[ajzride]

A nice round bar connects the clutch pedal to the top arm of this contraption.

There is a stud on the block below #8 spark plug that goes into one side of the middle tube. There is a bracket that mounts on the frame just behind the steering box that goes into the other side of the middle tube.

The bottom arm of the contraption connects to the adjustable linkage that actually pushes the throw out bearing arm.

[Frankenstank]

So it basically removes the cable and directly conects by a rod to the clutch fork

[ajzride]

yes

[Countryboy_99]

Its the old school mechanical way to disengage your clutch.