[Oddball]

I've found a 1966 Mustang for sale. 6 cyl, 3 spd, no air. It appears to be in good shape from the pics. Same guy has owned it since 1970. Thinking of dropping a 289, if I can find one, or a 302 in it. I assume the current transmission probably won't stand up to the HP and torque of a V8 very long, and I might have to relocate motor mounts to accomodate an 8 cyl?? I want to have my mechanic give it the once over if it passes my initial inspection. What are some areas to pay particular attention to for rust or other problems? I can get just about any body part replaced, but of course I'd rather not. All my old muscle cars were Chevys, sorry, and I know what areas to pay attention to on them, but I'm new to Fords.

[zers]

under the battery, in the end of the rear window area (where all the water sits) inside the doors, I had some in the trunk also.

the 3 speed is a toploader is it's stock, which will hold up to a v8. I believe vinyl66 has a 3 speed with a 289

[460brevill]

if it is an orig. six ,why not build that up?

[Oddball]

460, I guess I could build up the 6, I've just always been partial to 8 cylinder engines. The 6's don't seem to be that collectible, so I don't feel like I'd be butchering a collector car, though it would be a lot easier than swapping the motor. Its something to consider.

[03svtsnakevert]

ok, look at the floor pans under the carpet...old mustangs were bad for their cowls to leak

check the rocker panels for any rust...also the inner trunk corners...if this is a northern car, there will be substantial rust here if not taken care of...run a magnet along the outside of the car

building the 6 may be very difficult...being that the head and the intake are cast as one...some of the early models are not, but the 67 I have it was.

all you need to do is change the motor mounts from I6 to V8...no need to relocate

hope this helps

[460brevill]

i have an i6 punching 300 hp.think about it,they were made for touqe.what happens when you give it air,gas and exhaust.

[460brevill]

i forgot they have 7 main bearings.you can twist the crank to hell and back.

[Kobra Killer]

You need to upgrade the front suspension to V8 parts.
Might as well do the Shelby drop & improve handling while you are at it.

[gsjohnson]

I'd pull the carpet up in all 4 footwells before making a decision to buy it. That should be a pretty good indicator on the extent of the rust, if any exists. Additionally, the cowls are famous for rusting and leaking water. I'd run a hose over the cowl area to check. To me, I'd have no interest in building an old nail like an inline six. I think your on the right track with a 289/302 transplant. Maybe even a stroker. I'd convert to a 4 speed as well. The early six banger Mustangs came with 4 bolt wheels, so you will have to consider upgrading there. The good news is the upper & lower control arms are the same as a V8. I'd consider performing the Granada disc brake conversion. It's cheap and it's a direct bolt on and you'd kill two birds with one stone. You will still need to buy springs. I've done this swap numerous times and the car sits really low with the 6 springs. And the ride quality sucks. You can find 8" V8 diffs for those cars all day long. Buy the whole assembly drum to drum. You will need a unit that is a 66 or earlier because in 67 Ford increased the track. Or you can step up and go for the 9". I've done numerous 6 to 8 swaps along with the diff and Granada DB swap. There's a ton of info on the net about all of these swaps. Hope this helps.

[69fastback]

Originally Posted by gsjohnson I'd pull the carpet up in all 4 footwells before making a decision to buy it. That should be a pretty good indicator on the extent of the rust, if any exists. Additionally, the cowls are famous for rusting and leaking water. I'd run a hose over the cowl area to check. To me, I'd have no interest in building an old nail like an inline six. I think your on the right track with a 289/302 transplant. Maybe even a stroker. I'd convert to a 4 speed as well. The early six banger Mustangs came with 4 bolt wheels, so you will have to consider upgrading there. The good news is the upper & lower control arms are the same as a V8. I'd consider performing the Granada disc brake conversion. It's cheap and it's a direct bolt on and you'd kill two birds with one stone. You will still need to buy springs. I've done this swap numerous times and the car sits really low with the 6 springs. And the ride quality sucks. You can find 8" V8 diffs for those cars all day long. Buy the whole assembly drum to drum. You will need a unit that is a 66 or earlier because in 67 Ford increased the track. Or you can step up and go for the 9". I've done numerous 6 to 8 swaps along with the diff and Granada DB swap. There's a ton of info on the net about all of these swaps. Hope this helps.

This is good info.


Another common rust spot, other than those mentioned, is around the tail lights. Also check those subframe panels, and torque boxes out real well, and if they have put any kind of coating on them, scrape it off so you can see the metal.

[66 FSTBK RR]

Dear Oddball,

View this on what you SHOULD NOT SEE!

[69fastback]

Wow that will take a lot of money to make it right

[66 FSTBK RR]

Originally Posted by 69fastback Wow that will take a lot of money to make it right

I know.... guess who just ordered $4000 in sheet metal alone... THIS GUY

BUT.... will I ever loose money on the project since it is a K-Code... NO!

[460brevill]

aint nothing to it but to do it.

[boostedzx3]

^^^looks like that car was driven in the salt mines then had the windows bashed out to sit in a field being rained in for 20+years. Holy crap i'm so glad mine never saw weather up here in the North.

[66 FSTBK RR]

Originally Posted by boostedzx3 ^^^looks like that car was driven in the salt mines then had the windows bashed out to sit in a field being rained in for 20+years. Holy crap i'm so glad mine never saw weather up here in the North.

VERY TRUE... but something like this and needs THIS much repair, I dont feel bad about returning it to glory, while still adding all-around disc brakes, coil over fronts, 4-bar coil over rear, and a twin-turbo 302 motor tied to a T-5 and a 9" rear end. If it was in even 'mediocre' condition, I would return it all to original equip. But yea.... thats what a car looks like after it sat for 13 years in a field in Wisconsin and had 13 winters go across it with no glass in it.

[CR70fastback]

I vouch for the pulling of carpet. Also check around the rear window and rear quarters. Just my problem areas.

[myeleanor]

Originally Posted by 66 FSTBK RR VERY TRUE... but something like this and needs THIS much repair, I dont feel bad about returning it to glory, while still adding all-around disc brakes, coil over fronts, 4-bar coil over rear, and a twin-turbo 302 motor tied to a T-5 and a 9" rear end. If it was in even 'mediocre' condition, I would return it all to original equip. But yea.... thats what a car looks like after it sat for 13 years in a field in Wisconsin and had 13 winters go across it with no glass in it.

hey 66, how much did you pick up that k-code for?

[66 FSTBK RR]

Originally Posted by myeleanor hey 66, how much did you pick up that k-code for?

I picked up the K-Code for $500 bucks (title clean, VIN matched)
I picked up my 85 Mustang GT donor car for $500 from an insurance buy out that had an electrical fire under the hood with only 13,000 miles on it.


Hot Rod magazine is requesting that I send pictures with every step. Rob Kinnan (google that name) asked to have pictures of hi-res since it will be a 'youth-developed' car with pure aftermarket parts on a budget build. To attract a younger generation into hod-rodding.

[myeleanor]

wow. I would love to see step by step of this build. thats amazing