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post #1 of 9 Old February 18th, 2008, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Replacing frame rails

Finally got the Mustang in the arage and started removing all interior and front end. Have the parts to start getting rid of the rust. There is allot of that.

My question to the knowing herd here is what is the best place to get the car level? Tops of the old frame rails? I am replacing both front and rear rails.

Any suggestions will be appreciated. I have my opinions but want to hear from those that have done it......
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post #2 of 9 Old February 18th, 2008, 11:11 AM
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do it on level concreat.put the car on 4 jackstands.measure from floor to back and front of framerail.do the same side to side,replace one at a time.

i sixing 200 six with 300 hp.
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post #3 of 9 Old February 18th, 2008, 11:21 AM
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I agree, but you really have to make sure you have a truly level spot to do it, and it's very tough, because most concrete is not level.

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post #4 of 9 Old February 18th, 2008, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Concrete is going to be used only to hold the weight of the car. What I am goin to use for level is the car itslef. I intend to build some jackstands that have an all-thread rod and a platform to rest the car on. This will be the point of reference for all measurements. Concrete is not something I want to reference to when trying to egt the car within 1/16" square.

Basically I will elevate the car with the adjustable jack stands to get off the uneven concrete surface. A level and plumb bob will be used to get the car in square.

What point on the car do I focus on to get level? The trunk area has a floor on it that would be good to get side to side level. What about the bottom door runners to get front to back level? Is these area going to get me where I need to replace the frame rails?
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post #5 of 9 Old February 18th, 2008, 03:20 PM
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as long as the rocker panels are straight you can use them side to side and front to back.

i sixing 200 six with 300 hp.
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post #6 of 9 Old February 18th, 2008, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks 460brevil. I was hoping that I could use that area to get the car level. I don't trust the garage floor to be level at all (which it isn't). I will set the car up on my make shift jackstands, then reference eveything with a level. I intend to do the front ones first, then do the back. while I am installing the back ones I am going to move them in a couple of inche to gain rear tire clearance. I have a 9" housing that I will cut down as well. Of course all the suspension brackets will have to be modified as well.
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post #7 of 9 Old February 18th, 2008, 07:12 PM
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you can buy modified tub kits that are ready to go on.just tee them what width you want.

i sixing 200 six with 300 hp.
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post #8 of 9 Old February 18th, 2008, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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That is even better!! I was thinking of splitting some OEM and welding a piece in to give more room. Anyone know what the flange to flange width is on a 9" Mustang rear is? The car has a rear in it and it was originally equipped with a 289. Would this width work when I swap in the 9"? I am going to install the Heidt IFS, what about a rear end assy.? I was looking at the heidt IRS but I don't think it will go over well here. What I want to do is take out the old Mustang ride of handling and body roll and put in a modern suspension, that handles better but doesen't ride like a stagecoach. I will be installing power 4 wheel disc brakes, power rack and pinion steering. I would like to put 275 or 255 on the back and 245 or 235 up front.

Who sells the best tub kit? I have been dealing with CJ Pony parts allot here lately.

Keith
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post #9 of 9 Old February 20th, 2008, 07:59 AM
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i love cjpony.if they dont here from me every month i think they send out a search party.

i sixing 200 six with 300 hp.
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