351W bore size
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Old April 13th, 2008, 10:56 PM   #1
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351W bore size


What would you consider being the most you can safely bore a 351W block?

I am going to build a pretty healthy 408, and I found a 69 351W block, but it's already bored .030, and it'll probably need to be punched again so it's fresh. I was looking for a 69 or 70 block because of the nickel content, but I'm not sure about going .040. Thoughts?
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Old April 13th, 2008, 11:29 PM   #2
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If you like you can buy P.A.W.'s 418 Stroker Motor short block for $2400.
Comes with a,

New Crank
New Rods
New pistons
New Cam
New Oil pump
.30 Over Block

Im building the same motors for my customers. Its a Great buy for the money. You can get the world product windser SR 202 heads for $449 each Assembeled.

.40 over is fine, The problem is there is not a good choice of pistons for .40 bores
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Old April 13th, 2008, 11:46 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by MustangOne View Post
If you like you can buy P.A.W.'s 418 Stroker Motor short block for $2400.
Comes with a,

New Crank
New Rods
New pistons
New Cam
New Oil pump
.30 Over Block

Im building the same motors for my customers. Its a Great buy for the money. You can get the world product windser SR 202 heads for $449 each Assembeled.

.40 over is fine, The problem is there is not a good choice of pistons for .40 bores

Thaks for the info....
Who's P.A.W? I was really planning on doing it all myself, but that's a pretty fair price. I'm going to use my own custom grind cam, and I plan on using AFR 205s. I'm shooting for 500bhp N/A.



Sorry I didn't make it out there the other day. We were late getting in because of that weather we had, and we had to drive the pasengers. I'm up there a lot, so maybe next time I can swing by.
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Old April 14th, 2008, 09:46 AM   #4
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Its All the parts to build a short block. You have to assemble it still.
The Part Number is #SPFORW420 Price is $2395
The Cam I use is Comp Cam
COM-35-226-3 .512/.512 280/280 110 LC $115.95
You can order one of their catalogs, there $5 and look like a phone book.
818-678-3000


You can come by anytime when your in the area. I always have a small car show going on here. Next week we will be building the 418 storker here ourselfs again. The weather was not good at all to fly in im sure, the wind was bad.
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Old April 14th, 2008, 11:39 AM   #5
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fordstrokers.com has 351 408 kits for up to .060 bore
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Old April 14th, 2008, 11:48 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Vinyl66 View Post
fordstrokers.com has 351 408 kits for up to .060 bore

I know I can get the parts, but I was more concerned with the normal problems from punching one out a little too far.
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Old April 14th, 2008, 12:23 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by 69fastback View Post
What would you consider being the most you can safely bore a 351W block?

I am going to build a pretty healthy 408, and I found a 69 351W block, but it's already bored .030, and it'll probably need to be punched again so it's fresh. I was looking for a 69 or 70 block because of the nickel content, but I'm not sure about going .040. Thoughts?

It depends. 99% of the pre 80s blocks can go .060. Some of them can go bigger than that. I have one that can go 4.100 safely which was the block out of my black car.

I have a 425 rotating assembly with all of the best forged and lightweight parts for cheap The crank and rods are used and the pistons are new dished pistons for pump gas.
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Old April 14th, 2008, 05:18 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Darrell View Post
It depends. 99% of the pre 80s blocks can go .060. Some of them can go bigger than that. I have one that can go 4.100 safely which was the block out of my black car.

I have a 425 rotating assembly with all of the best forged and lightweight parts for cheap The crank and rods are used and the pistons are new dished pistons for pump gas.

Really? So you think there would be no problems with .040 on a 69 block then?
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Old April 14th, 2008, 07:13 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by 69fastback View Post
Really? So you think there would be no problems with .040 on a 69 block then?
I haven't seen a 69-74 block that can't go .060. Those are some thick blocks. I've done alot of 75-77 blocks .060 as well.
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Old April 14th, 2008, 08:32 PM   #10
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The only thing bad about going to .060 is the heating problems of the Driver that you want to run air on. The 69 mustang can run a good radaitor. The bad thing is a .060 block, It will be the last time it is built. If have never seen that big of a diffrence of the performance side to justify the extra .030 for the trade of the extra heat. Just because you can go .060 dosnt always mean you should.

I dont belive your building a drag racer, just and nice thumping sonic ride that you can thrash if you like. Right?
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Old April 14th, 2008, 08:37 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by MustangOne View Post
The only thing bad about going to .060 is the heating problems of the Driver that you want to run air on. The 69 mustang can run a good radaitor. The bad thing is a .060 block, It will be the last time it is built. If have never seen that big of a diffrence of the performance side to justify the extra .030 for the trade of the extra heat. Just because you can go .060 dosnt always mean you should.

I dont belive your building a drag racer, just and nice thumping sonic ride that you can thrash if you like. Right?

There will be no extra heat if the block sonic checks out ok. If the block is thin enough to generate extra heat boring it that far it will be too weak for racing as well. I've built many street only engines that needed to go .060 to clean up. Heat has never been an issue, even with a stock cooling system.
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Old April 14th, 2008, 08:39 PM   #12
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forget all of that dude get the 428 stroker kit they just came out with cant remember who made it but its sick my uncle jus stuck 1 in his 1970 mach 1 and the motor has over 600 hp+
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Old April 14th, 2008, 08:53 PM   #13
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for .060 make it up with pistons.that will save your block.
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Old April 14th, 2008, 10:14 PM   #14
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A .060 over motor 302/289 will not run cool in a 1965/66 drive in Texas in July with A/C on , driving in traffic. But a .030 motor will.

the thinner you make cylinder walls the more heat that transfer to the water, more heat you have to remove. Bigger cooling system you need. My point on this I like to Drive my cars in the summer and not worry about it getting hot. You may not share my veiw. That is ok.
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Old April 14th, 2008, 10:29 PM   #15
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I have no intentions of going .060. It's .030 now, and it will need to go to .040. I was just asking if Darrell was saying it's ok to go to.060. Just because you can, doesn't mean I will.
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Old April 14th, 2008, 10:32 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by MustangOne View Post
A .060 over motor 302/289 will not run cool in a 1965/66 drive in Texas in July with A/C on , driving in traffic. But a .030 motor will.

the thinner you make cylinder walls the more heat that transfer to the water, more heat you have to remove. Bigger cooling system you need. My point on this I like to Drive my cars in the summer and not worry about it getting hot. You may not share my veiw. That is ok.
We are not talking about a 289/302, we are talking about a 351W and even if we were talking 289/302 the comparison is not valid without sonic check data. I can't tell you anything about the cylinder walls in early 289/302 engines because I haven't dealt with many of them. What I can tell you is all of the 351W engines that I've bored .060 have had thicker cylinder walls after removing .060 from the cylinders than any 83 and up stock 5 liter block that I've seen with a standard 4.000 bore. I've also been in Las Vegas stop and go traffic in the middle of July (110 degrees) with the air conditioning blasting and ran 180 degrees with a stock Mustang cooling system and a 4.060 bore 351. You are correct in respect to a thin cylinder wall possibly causing an engine to run hotter but in the case of early 351W engines, that won't be a problem unless you have a bad core to start with. A simple sonic check will tell you what you need to know. We are dealing with Fords here, not the Chevy 400 engines.
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Old April 14th, 2008, 10:40 PM   #17
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The main thing the answer to the Questions is yes, a .040 Block will work fine. there is not as big of a choice of pistons as there is for a .030 / .060 ,
In my opinion, In the older cars with max size 24" radaitors. I would not shoot my wad in a .060 motor if I didnt need to. Most of these people that read these treads dont have to money to re do a build if it runs hot in the area and for thier uses.
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Old April 16th, 2008, 11:20 AM   #18
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I might be reading it wrong, but there are engine builders doing a 4.125" bore on a 351w, combined with a 4-ish" crank to get 427 cubes...how much cylinder wall does that leave?? Not sure what that translates to as far as an over-bore is concerned.
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Old April 16th, 2008, 11:23 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Grabber523 View Post
I might be reading it wrong, but there are engine builders doing a 4.125" bore on a 351w, combined with a 4" crank to get 427 cubes...how much cylinder wall does that leave?? Not sure what that translates to as far as an over-bore is concerned.
That is with an aftermarket block. I've only seen a two production 351W blocks that can go 4.100 and never seen one that can go bigger than that safely.
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Old April 16th, 2008, 11:36 AM   #20
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Oh...okay, good info. I'm looking at dropping a 427 small block in my 69 when the time comes. Thanks.
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