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Old February 2nd, 2012, 01:36 AM   #141
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Originally Posted by dannyboy281 View Post
Ok I am wondering if I am going to go have to buy new capacitors and resistors since the ones I soldered will probably be ruined. I also dont think my soldering is all that good either because the soldering gun I have is pretty large and for this small soldering work. And I cut the gray wire instead of just stripping a piece on the first one I did so I just got a piece of a similar wire to solder the two gray sides back together along with the the capacitor, which I am pretty sure was a stupid move on my part WHat type of solder gun or iron do you suggest getting and do you think since I cut the gray wire when I wasnt suppose to, that I screwed that O2 up now?
They should have come in packs of like 10 or something.


The easiest way to do it is to take both the gray and the black wire and cut them. Take a wire stripper and strip back about 1/4"-1/8" of wire and wrap the leads of the capacitor around the stripped sensor ends. Then go to the other side and strip the other half of the wires and wrap the resistor around the black wire and the positive lead of the cap. Then connect the remaining grey wire to the negative lead of the cap. It'll probably look like a triangle of wires but once you solder it you can gently flatten it out and cover it back up.

This will be more than enough. Just have a wet sponge on hand to keep the soldering tip clean. As for a soldering tip, when you have the wires wrapped up like that if you put a little bit of solder on the tip (a little more than a protective coat) and apply the iron to the bottom of the wires you can go over the top of the wires and it will create a bridge for the solder to flow into the wires instead of burning the insulation of the wire.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...oldering+irons
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Old February 2nd, 2012, 02:45 AM   #142
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Originally Posted by zinc02GT View Post


Also, yellow wires = white since the background is white.

Red is resistor.

Orange is capacitor.
I dont remember seeing that capacitor indicating which wire leg is positive the writing was so small on it all I remember is having was like 123 or something like that. I am going to redo this tomorrow man I am pretty sure I know what I did wrong I am going to go buy new parts and a smaller iron along with some like 5 feet 20 gauge wire to make the O2 sensors longer. After watching some soldering videos I think I know what I did wrong.
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Old February 2nd, 2012, 02:59 AM   #143
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Originally Posted by zinc02GT View Post
They should have come in packs of like 10 or something.


The easiest way to do it is to take both the gray and the black wire and cut them. Take a wire stripper and strip back about 1/4"-1/8" of wire and wrap the leads of the capacitor around the stripped sensor ends. Then go to the other side and strip the other half of the wires and wrap the resistor around the black wire and the positive lead of the cap. Then connect the remaining grey wire to the negative lead of the cap. It'll probably look like a triangle of wires but once you solder it you can gently flatten it out and cover it back up.

This will be more than enough. Just have a wet sponge on hand to keep the soldering tip clean. As for a soldering tip, when you have the wires wrapped up like that if you put a little bit of solder on the tip (a little more than a protective coat) and apply the iron to the bottom of the wires you can go over the top of the wires and it will create a bridge for the solder to flow into the wires instead of burning the insulation of the wire.

15-Watt Soldering Iron with Grounded Tip - RadioShack.com
Thanks man I appreciate all your help. I am pretty sure something went wrong due to the soldering and probably me putting the capacitor on wrong like you said. I need to see how to put it on correctly I hope it has writing on it showing a + or a minus. My dad actually has a Weller Soldering Gun not a iron so the thing is too big for this work and the solder he has is too thick of a gauge so it drops big drops of solder when contacted with heat. I need to get that iron you posted and some thinner solder to get the job done neatly so I dont have clumps. Do you suggest I get the tool that holds the wires together its like two small clamps with a magnifying glass? Also when installing these can you snip off any excess wiring from the capacitors or resistors prior to soldering or will that ruin it?
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Old February 3rd, 2012, 09:11 AM   #144
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Bought a new soldering iron, a iron holder with clips and a magnifying glass, some smaller solder, new capacitors and resistors and some 20 gauge wire to make the O2's longer but I purchased the solid wire, I need to return it and get the bundled wire in 20 gauge today.
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Old February 4th, 2012, 06:43 PM   #145
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I redid the work today hopeful it works out for me but I guess I'll find out if something went wrong soon after a few mines of driving


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Old February 4th, 2012, 08:05 PM   #146
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What exactly are the purpose of MIL's?
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Old February 4th, 2012, 08:36 PM   #147
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Originally Posted by Gerbig View Post
What exactly are the purpose of MIL's?
To turn off the check engine light when your running an offroad midpipe.

I went and they tested it but they charged me the inspection fee of $26.50 either way. This fucking sucks now I am going to have to try and find a place that will pass it under the table or have to remove the MAC off road x-pipe and buy a catted x pipe and new rear O2 sensors since I did a bunch of soldering to them.
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Old February 6th, 2012, 09:15 PM   #148
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Went back today and it passed


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Old February 6th, 2012, 11:01 PM   #149
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Originally Posted by dannyboy281 View Post
I couldn't find one for that price man. Most with that milage are $23 to $24k and most guys wont move on the price much. Also I only had a personal loan of $10k and $9k in cash, so that was my max to spend.

I could have purchased a 2005 and up vehicle with an autoloan that I was approved for $20k plus my $9k, but I didnt want to have high payments because I am planning to get a home this year or next. I also didnt want to have an automotive loan. With this the Mach is now mine and cannot be repoed if I happen to get in a bad situation in the future. Not that I am looking for that to happen or expect it to, but one can never know what the future can bring.
Smart move. In a few months I could have financed a 2011 GT, but I got my Mach 1 instead. 45k ODO for $13600. The lower payments are nice, and this car is way more fun than the two 2010 GTs I test drove. The 5.0 would have been better, obviously, but high payments. With the Mach, smaller car payment, more mod money.
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Old February 6th, 2012, 11:07 PM   #150
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Originally Posted by dannyboy281 View Post
Hey guys today I bought a 2003 Azure Blue Mach 1 with 4400 original miles on it. It is getting shipped to me from Cary NC. I paid $19000 for it.


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I know this is a fairly old thread, but fucking wow on the purchase, man...
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Old February 6th, 2012, 11:56 PM   #151
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Thanks guys and the threads not too old I just got the car last week lol


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Old February 7th, 2012, 12:34 AM   #152
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So MIL's came through I take it?
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Old February 7th, 2012, 03:05 PM   #153
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Originally Posted by zinc02GT View Post
So MIL's came through I take it?
Yeah they did man it had to go through the drive cycle since I disconnected the neg terminal on the battery


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