[kyle2002stang!]

Originally Posted by 1996 GT Personally myself i found MIG welding to be the easiest to learn on. As long as you keep a steady hand, use enough oxygen and have patience its not difficult to learn at all.

and a derby car would be great practice. doesnt matter how good or shitty the welds are, the cars gettin' trashed anyways!

[SON1C]

i googled and couldnt find one for less than 175?

[kyle2002stang!]

Originally Posted by SteeD43 i googled and couldnt find one for less than 175?

know a place to rent/borrow one? or find a shop that will let you use theirs in exchange for sponsoring their shop

and i spent about $500 including the cost of the car, so dont get discouraged because its "too expensive" thats the #1 excuse i hear from people lol

[1996 GT]

Originally Posted by kyle2002stang! and a derby car would be great practice. doesnt matter how good or shitty the welds are, the cars gettin' trashed anyways!

That is SO true. Lincoln makes good MIG welders.

Also don't forget, a welder is usually a one time purchase, minus the cost of wire and new tips ever now and then. It will benefit you greatly and you will use it for many things later on.

[kyle2002stang!]

im still lookin for a car to run this summer, tryin to get an 80s crown vic but no luck yet...

[SON1C]

for a clunker off of cl, what should i go for? should i take a beatup truck if i can?

[Tang Stang]

Truck class demo derbies aren't too common. Is there one near you?

[chocolate]

Originally Posted by 1996 GT Personally myself i found MIG welding to be the easiest to learn on. As long as you keep a steady hand, use enough oxygen and have patience its not difficult to learn at all.

Extremely easy to learn. I learned how to MIG weld in about 15 min. Does help i had a good teacher and top of the line equipment, but thats what i get for having a grand father who owns a metal shop.

[SON1C]

yeah theres one guy who is trying to set one up, its not a car or truck class, it'd be sort of a budget build clunker derby

[kyle2002stang!]

cars and trucks in the same derby? sounds like a recipe for somebody to get seriously fucked up. trucks should only run against trucks.

anyways, as for pickups theyre all pretty equal as far as strength goes, but the 60s fords and dodges are toughest from what ive heard. ive never ran a truck before but i plan to change that this summer too

80s and newer cars id say the crown vic/LTD is probably toughest. 80s GM cars have a weak frame in the middle

old iron cars (1979 and older cars) have a lot more variety. some have strong noses and weak back ends and vice versa. but the best old iron car would be the 1957-1968 chrysler imperials, these cars are TANKS but they are not allowed in most derbys because they are actually too strong.

also, "when built right" is the derby motto. some cars are complete trash when stock, but "when built right" can be absolute beasts

[Tang Stang]

Originally Posted by kyle2002stang! cars and trucks in the same derby? sounds like a recipe for somebody to get seriously fucked up. trucks should only run against trucks.

My thoughts exactly.

[kyle2002stang!]

since you said its a budget derby im assuming its a chain-and-go which is easy to build a car for. find a car or truck, chain the doors shut, move the gas tank and battery inside the car, smash out the windows and go!

[SON1C]

nevermind its only cars, makes more sense

so things you should do are relocate battery to inside, as well as gas tank?and chain doors?

[kyle2002stang!]

Originally Posted by SteeD43 nevermind its only cars, makes more sense so things you should do are relocate battery to inside, as well as gas tank?and chain doors?

basically yes. you dont want the battery flyin around under the hood. and for a gas tank id find a boat tank. relatively cheap and all you gotta do is hook up the fuel line. and remove the stock tank and throw it away, BIG fire hazard right there.

chaining the doors- wrap a chain through the door and around the B pillar, then bolt the chain together with a bolt.

[Tang Stang]

Typical build rules for a demo derby:

1. Passenger cars and station wagons only. No jeeps, pickups, Chrysler Imperials, or ambulances.
2. No reinforcing of the frame or body parts, except the driver's door and driver's seat. ALL EQUIPMENT MUST BE STANDARD.
3. Safety Equipment - Seat belts and shoulder harnesses are required, wil be tested, and must be worn. A Snell rated helmet is required and eye protection must be worn. Drivers must wear long sleeve shirts.
4. Radiator must remain in the original position. WATER ONLY. No automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in motors.
5. All glass, mirrors, plastic and fiberglass, must be removed. No glass allowed in door panels or trunk. All lenses, chrome and body moldings must be removed and loose parts inside car and trunk removed. Headliners and inside door panels must be removed.
6. Original gas tanks must be removed or have a hole punched in it. Supplemental tank maximum of 6-gallon capacity MUST BE PLACED BEHIND DRIVER'S SEAT AND RIGIDLY SECURED. NO RUBBER STRAPS, SEAT BELT MATERIAL OR WIRE ALLOWED. Gas tank must be bolted down by cable, chain or metal straps and covered with rubber.
7. Frames, suspension and body mounts must remain stock. All body mounts are to be original with original size hardware and collars. No exceptions. You can weld the frame seams in front of front A-arm mount only. No other welding on frames, suspension or body seams allowed. No shock extensions or tennis balls in coils!!
8. All engine fans must have fan shield in place. Electric fans are allowed.
9. A screen must be placed over the driver's side windshield, with no larger than 3 inch spaces. A windshield center bar must be properly installed and reinforced (welded or bolted) for driver's safety.
10. Battery must be securely mounted inside of the car on the floor in the front of the passenger seat and covered in rubber or in an enclosed box. Two batteries are allowed. Battery must be bolted down securely by cable, chain or metal straps. NO RUBBER STRAPS, SEAT BELT MATERIAL OR
WIRE ALLOWED.
11. Engines must be in original location / factory motor mounts. No motor plates. One support chain per motor mount. Welded mounts are optionaL. Firewall can be altered for engine clearance, but must be covered and sealed for driver's protection. Maximum openings in firewall not to exceed 12" x 12".
12. Engine hood can have a maximum of 8 secured points. Hood cannot be welded and must be able to be opened or removed. Two 8" fire holes are required in the hood, one on each side of the carburetor - away from radiator.
13. Exhaust must go up or down. No pointing forward or to the sides.
14. Door and trunk lids may be chained and/or welded shut but not reinforced. If the trunk is permanently shut an inspection hole of a minimum of 12 inches is required.
15. Driver's cage can be built with 2 crossbars. Cross bars must be side to side with one dash bar and one directly behind driver's seat. Bars can be connected front to rear and bar over roof is optional. Driver may also add 2 floor-to-roof bars - one behind driver's seat and one in front passenger seat
area. Bars are not to exceed 4" in diameter. Bars must be securely welded or bolted in place.
16. DRIVER'S DOOR must be welded shut and must be reinforced with flat or angle iron and not to exceed more than 4" past each side of driver's door. All reinforcement is strictly for driver safety.
17. All driver's doors must be painted white! There will be no white or light colored cars allowed.
18. Bumpers may be welded to frame and be secured with a maximum of two straps. Straps can be no wider than 2" or thicker than 3/16". They may also be chained through hood. This applies to your 8 attachment points. (See Rule 12 above). Bumper can also be welded to mount and mount welded
to frame.
19. Maximum of 2 leaf spring clamps per leaf spring, this includes factory clamps.
20. No altering or increasing the weight of the car. No sand or concrete can be used in any part of the car. No back seats in cars or rear hatches in station wagons.
21. Tires must be 15" or smaller and be DOT approved (passenger car, light truck, etc). You can have flappers. You must strip wheel weights. No studded tires. No equipment or Ag tires. No foam filed tires. No tires inside of tires. No fluid filled tires. No sand filed tires. AIR FILLED TIRES ONLY!!! THIS WILL BE STRICTLY ENFORCED!! No welding on lug nuts. Trimming body panels for tire clearance is okay. No reinforcing of body panel with bolts.
22. Transmission coolers can be installed and must be securely fastened behind the driver's seat.
23. No spray foam, core bond, rhino line, rubberized paint, herculiner or spray liner.
24. If your car is disqualified by these rules, the entry fee WILL NOT BE REFUNDED!!

[kyle2002stang!]

^rod has a perfect example there. but rules can vary from show to show.

[Tang Stang]

Originally Posted by kyle2002stang! but rules can vary from show to show.

OP, you need to get the rules for whatever derby you're looking to do, and build the car to suit them.

[kyle2002stang!]

oh and are we talkin front wheel drive 4 bangers, or rear wheel drive fullsize V8 sedans?