[untamed15]

Hey guys, everyone of the mustang guys who spend all day and night upgrading their ride, this is to you. My name is Adam, i just bought a 2001 stang gt, last year actually. the car has gone through a body upgrade, she's really a mut now, but i love her dearly. She's now begging for horses and sound. This is where i need your help, and guys like me need your help. You see, u guys know these stangs inside and out, all the good parts and all the bad, i on the other hand, change my oil by paying the at jiffy lube, that should say it all right there. does that mean i dont deserve a stang, hell no, it means i need u professional to spell out how to upgrade a stang. what exhausts u have used, what sounded good and what didnt, what heads, throttle bodies, etc. etc.
I propose that the guys who know these cars like the back of their hand, start posting how u modded ur stang, what the part names are, where u found it, where the best deals are. This way, guys like me who dont know much about parts and performance, can build our cars along with you guys, and dont have to feel embarassed to ask. So what do u guys say, think of it as a report on your modded mustang project. Im ready to build a freak mustang, and i need your help, my cell is 631-332-4724, if u would like to help me out, be a partner on this black beaty, upon completion, ill pay u 200 dollars as a consulting fee, im gonna be putting up stock pics tonight, and what she looks like currently. thanks guys and hole shot on.

adam penna

[BWAL]

dude you don't have to pay anybody any money.. just ask us all the questions you have, and before you know it, you will have one badass mustang

[TurboLX]

Originally Posted by BWAL09 dude you don't have to pay anybody any money.. just ask us all the questions you have, and before you know it, you will have one badass mustang

Agree'd

[HMUSN]

we are willing to help you for free.

IF...

you remover your phone number off of your post.
welcome to the forums.

[mustangmanic]

Ok well i really hope you read this and pay attention to this cuz this is gonna take awhile to type lol

these are things i would do in the order i would personally have them done.

Gears:
>If you're staying NA (naturally aspirated) go with a FRPP 4.10 ratio
>If you're going FI (forced induction, turbo or supercharger) go with a FRPP 3.73 ratio
important!!! make sure its FRPP brand, Motive and any other brand are known to have a wine sound to them.

Exhaust: gotta have that mean sound
>Midpipe. either an off road X (for a louder raspier sound) or an off road H (a more mellow deeper sound). An X will give you a tiny bit more HP and Less TQ, and the H will give you a little more TQ.
>Catback. i strongly suggest stainless steel.... also recommend SS for midpipe too.
Important!!! For a 2V GT, Bassani or MAC are known to sound amazing for a catback. An off road x sounds better with bassani, and an off road H or prochamber (a special midpipe made by MAC that sounds like a H but has the HP like an X) for a MAC catback.
>Headers. Not necessary, but longtube headers if you're going FI and Shorties If staying NA. (no need to go through all the trouble of the install of LT headers if you're not going FI)

Air induction: gotta let her breathe
>Cold Air intake. I would recommend the JLT cold air intake
>75mm throttle body and plenum. I would recommend Accufab for both.
Important!!! If you're going FI, dont even worry about the CAI because you wount use it for the SC or TC kit.

Tuner:
> I would recomment either a DiabloSport or a SCT xcal tuner. Both are amazing!

Underdrive pullies:
>Steeda underdrive pullies.

Suspension:
>Eibach sportlines, lower 1'' to 2.25''
>Shocks and struts
>caster chamber plates

These are just the basics to get you rolling. Thats about 2k right there. Hope i helped and good luck.

***if you're going FI, disregard the underdrive pullies... also if you want to do a turbo... forget the headers, and midpipe because they will come with the kit

[TurboLX]

ehh^^

needs work

[mustangmanic]

i kno... thats just the basic shit tho.


i coulda got a lot more techinical with cams, heads, coils etc....

[TurboLX]

he's talking about stripping a Mustang down and putting it back together, only a few of us are capable of doing that

[mustangmanic]

woah! if you dont even kno how to change ur oil... please dont trust urself to build a damn car lmao.... but really.

i say a fully built and forged 302 shortblock with some Twin turbos lol.

[C MY 4D]

Originally Posted by mustangmanic Ok well i really hope you read this and pay attention to this cuz this is gonna take awhile to type lol these are things i would do in the order i would personally have them done. Gears: >If you're staying NA (naturally aspirated) go with a FRPP 4.10 ratio >If you're going FI (forced induction, turbo or supercharger) go with a FRPP 3.73 ratio important!!! make sure its FRPP brand, Motive and any other brand are known to have a wine sound to them.

The 4.10's are a great idea with a 26 inch tire..... But when you start playing with boost everything changes..... It would be better if we found out what he wants as a finished product.

Originally Posted by mustangmanic Exhaust: gotta have that mean sound >Midpipe. either an off road X (for a louder raspier sound) or an off road H (a more mellow deeper sound). An X will give you a tiny bit more HP and Less TQ, and the H will give you a little more TQ. >Catback. i strongly suggest stainless steel.... also recommend SS for midpipe too. Important!!! For a 2V GT, Bassani or MAC are known to sound amazing for a catback. An off road x sounds better with bassani, and an off road H or prochamber (a special midpipe made by MAC that sounds like a H but has the HP like an X) for a MAC catback. >Headers. Not necessary, but longtube headers if you're going FI and Shorties If staying NA. (no need to go through all the trouble of the install of LT headers if you're not going FI)

Eh an H and an X usually create the same HP numbers its the torque thats different. With an H the torque will actually decrease in most cases. With an X it stay around the same. If you're gonna go thru the trouble of installing headers you might as well go with LTs. If not leave them alone.

Originally Posted by mustangmanic Air induction: gotta let her breathe >Cold Air intake. I would recommend the JLT cold air intake >75mm throttle body and plenum. I would recommend Accufab for both. Important!!! If you're going FI, dont even worry about the CAI because you wount use it for the SC or TC kit.

JLT can be good choice but they have a heat soak problem since they are made out of PVC pipe. If you plan on drag racing the car I would reccomend icing the intake in between runs. Just icing my JLT down to ambient air temp dropped my ET from 13.6s to 13 teens.
As for the TBs I would reccomend a 70mm on a bolt on NA car. Then a 75 MM for a FI or built NA car. As for accufab they aren't as great as everyone says they are.

Originally Posted by mustangmanic Tuner: > I would recomment either a DiabloSport or a SCT xcal tuner. Both are amazing!

SCT diablosport doesn't even come close. They were great for a while because they were the only one that could also datalog but SCT can do that now.

Originally Posted by mustangmanic Underdrive pullies: >Steeda underdrive pullies.

Not worth the money especially since you can't use them with a blower. My 01 was actually slower with them. Probably due to the fact that they cause charging problems especially where it is vital in high RPMs considering we run returnless fuel systems.

Originally Posted by mustangmanic Suspension: >Eibach sportlines, lower 1'' to 2.25'' >Shocks and struts >caster chamber plates

I'm not gonna dog this one much because Mustangmaniac is prolly getting mad at me by now. With sportlines you front tires will rub the inner fender on hard turns.

Originally Posted by mustangmanic These are just the basics to get you rolling. Thats about 2k right there. Hope i helped and good luck. ***if you're going FI, disregard the underdrive pullies... also if you want to do a turbo... forget the headers, and midpipe because they will come with the kit

[/quote]
So what are you planning on doing with the car? How much power? etc. Its always cheaper to deside this in the beginning.

[mustangmanic]

Originally Posted by C MY 4D The 4.10's are a great idea with a 26 inch tire..... But when you start playing with boost everything changes..... It would be better if we found out what he wants as a finished product. Eh an H and an X usually create the same HP numbers its the torque thats different. With an H the torque will actually decrease in most cases. With an X it stay around the same. If you're gonna go thru the trouble of installing headers you might as well go with LTs. If not leave them alone. JLT can be good choice but they have a heat soak problem since they are made out of PVC pipe. If you plan on drag racing the car I would reccomend icing the intake in between runs. Just icing my JLT down to ambient air temp dropped my ET from 13.6s to 13 teens. As for the TBs I would reccomend a 70mm on a bolt on NA car. Then a 75 MM for a FI or built NA car. As for accufab they aren't as great as everyone says they are. SCT diablosport doesn't even come close. They were great for a while because they were the only one that could also datalog but SCT can do that now. Not worth the money especially since you can't use them with a blower. My 01 was actually slower with them. Probably due to the fact that they cause charging problems especially where it is vital in high RPMs considering we run returnless fuel systems. I'm not gonna dog this one much because Mustangmaniac is prolly getting mad at me by now. With sportlines you front tires will rub the inner fender on hard turns.

So what are you planning on doing with the car? How much power? etc. Its always cheaper to deside this in the beginning.[/quote]

lol.... naw idc... but idk what you're talking about when you say sportlines rub... mine is lowered 2'' and i actually road race every other week at the former F1 course at Indianapolis Speedway. I've taken turns very very hard w/o any rub at all and i have 18'' rims.

*for those of you that have never road raced, try it, its a blast... you have to take a very expensive graduate program to qualift to legally drive on an approved course but its well worth it.

The entrance fee to the course is often pretty expensive but you're usually there for 15hrs anyway so its most def worth it.

[s3c2n01]

Originally Posted by untamed15 Hey guys, everyone of the mustang guys who spend all day and night upgrading their ride, this is to you. My name is Adam, i just bought a 2001 stang gt, last year actually. the car has gone through a body upgrade, she's really a mut now, but i love her dearly. She's now begging for horses and sound. This is where i need your help, and guys like me need your help. You see, u guys know these stangs inside and out, all the good parts and all the bad, i on the other hand, change my oil by paying the at jiffy lube, that should say it all right there. does that mean i dont deserve a stang, hell no, it means i need u professional to spell out how to upgrade a stang. what exhausts u have used, what sounded good and what didnt, what heads, throttle bodies, etc. etc. I propose that the guys who know these cars like the back of their hand, start posting how u modded ur stang, what the part names are, where u found it, where the best deals are. This way, guys like me who dont know much about parts and performance, can build our cars along with you guys, and dont have to feel embarassed to ask. So what do u guys say, think of it as a report on your modded mustang project. Im ready to build a freak mustang, and i need your help, my cell is 631-332-4724, if u would like to help me out, be a partner on this black beaty, upon completion, ill pay u 200 dollars as a consulting fee, im gonna be putting up stock pics tonight, and what she looks like currently. thanks guys and hole shot on. adam penna

add a super charger or look @ my mods!

[Tony_90fox]

And the brand of gear isnt usually what causes the gear whine, it's the poor installation. My motives whined for about 250-300 miles and dont hear them at all now. My guess is, the gears were new and just starting to get a wear pattern on them.

[Elder]

Originally Posted by Tony_90fox And the brand of gear isnt usually what causes the gear whine, it's the poor installation. My motives whined for about 250-300 miles and dont hear them at all now. My guess is, the gears were new and just starting to get a wear pattern on them.

+1

All the guys in town run motive. only one whines and thats cause he half assed it and did it himself as apposed to payin a pro 100$ to do it right.

[RandoGT]

s3c2n01, do you have dished pistons lowering your compression after the PI swap or are they just forged to the same CC that you had before and you have 10.1-.5:1 compression?

[Phoenixx]

Originally Posted by TurboLX he's talking about stripping a Mustang down and putting it back together, only a few of us are capable of doing that

I'm curious, how many people on here have actually do it? I know me, I'm guessing since you said "us" you have, or at least think you can (oO luv ya kiddo), and I can think of maybe 3 more who have. Mostly resto kinda deals though...

[HMUSN]

I don't know anything about it
.

[vfast]

Originally Posted by mustangmanic Ok well i really hope you read this and pay attention to this cuz this is gonna take awhile to type lol these are things i would do in the order i would personally have them done. Gears: >If you're staying NA (naturally aspirated) go with a FRPP 4.10 ratio >If you're going FI (forced induction, turbo or supercharger) go with a FRPP 3.73 ratio this is also wrong as you need to know pulley size on S/C as to not over rev it! important!!! make sure its FRPP brand, Motive and any other brand are known to have a wine sound to them. this is bullshit! Exhaust: gotta have that mean sound >Midpipe. either an off road X (for a louder raspier sound) or an off road H (a more mellow deeper sound). An X will give you a tiny bit more HP and Less TQ, and the H will give you a little more TQ. >Catback. i strongly suggest stainless steel.... also recommend SS for midpipe too. Important!!! For a 2V GT, Bassani or MAC are known to sound amazing for a catback. An off road x sounds better with bassani, and an off road H or prochamber (a special midpipe made by MAC that sounds like a H but has the HP like an X) for a MAC catback. >Headers. Not necessary, but longtube headers if you're going FI and Shorties If staying NA. (no need to go through all the trouble of the install of LT headers if you're not going FI) do you have a clue! Air induction: gotta let her breathe what about a MAF? >Cold Air intake. I would recommend the JLT cold air intake >75mm throttle body and plenum. I would recommend Accufab for both. Important!!! If you're going FI, dont even worry about the CAI because you wount use it for the SC or TC kit. Tuner: > I would recomment either a DiabloSport or a SCT xcal tuner. Both are amazing! Underdrive pullies: >Steeda underdrive pullies. Suspension: >Eibach sportlines, lower 1'' to 2.25'' >Shocks and struts >caster chamber plates These are just the basics to get you rolling. Thats about 2k right there. Hope i helped and good luck. ***if you're going FI, disregard the underdrive pullies... also if you want to do a turbo... forget the headers, and midpipe because they will come with the kit

[07 STROKER]

I have stripped 2 fox bodies (converted one 4 cylinder into a 5.0 ugh!) and rebuilt 6 engines including a 351w complete with 351c 4 bbl heads! yeah! I am curently building a 70 firebird 400 4 speed which is frame off as well.....Where do I find the time to work?? ha ha.

[White Thunder]

i'll take the money and give you bad advise!!!!