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Old July 9th, 2009, 11:24 PM   #1
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Weight Reduction Talk


Who has done it?How Far Did you go with it?.Did you weigh the parts?I Started to take weight out of my car before but put the seats back in for now,
I currently don't have Spare,Jack Etc.Mach 460 Amp Rack and speakers,And Dog bone off the rear,also running Dumps im sure that helps a little.

Just curious,If i took Every single part of interior out Minus Dash and door panel's and every part out of the trunk what kind of weight drop could be expected.And do you think its worth it?I only Drive the Car on the weekends So it don't have to be Daily Driver material.
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Old July 9th, 2009, 11:42 PM   #2
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i just swapped out my k member and went to coil overs and lost 56 lbs on the nose but when remove my back seat the rear is too light and i spin out with the slicks...
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Old July 9th, 2009, 11:44 PM   #3
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AcidTonic has done nothing but gutted his interior on his b-port, and he's down below 2900 lbs, if not lighter.
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Old July 10th, 2009, 01:01 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by mounder27 View Post
i just swapped out my k member and went to coil overs and lost 56 lbs on the nose but when remove my back seat the rear is too light and i spin out with the slicks...
I would love to do that but i don't have the cash i might try a coil over setup tho.Had my seat delete but did not like it so i stuck back seats back in lol.I was curious what it would take to get down to 2700-2800

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter View Post
AcidTonic has done nothing but gutted his interior on his b-port, and he's down below 2900 lbs, if not lighter.
That's Not to bad at all
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Old July 10th, 2009, 01:33 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by mounder27 View Post
i just swapped out my k member and went to coil overs and lost 56 lbs on the nose but when remove my back seat the rear is too light and i spin out with the slicks...
Really? I'm shocked that that little amount of weight so far inboard in the car is enough to make that much of a difference.

If it *is*, it seems like you could get the same effect on traction with less total weight by placing a small amount of balast as far back in the trunk as possible, or even better, by trunk mounting your battery.
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Old July 10th, 2009, 02:59 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by 330CubeGt View Post
I would love to do that but i don't have the cash i might try a coil over setup tho.Had my seat delete but did not like it so i stuck back seats back in lol.I was curious what it would take to get down to 2700-2800



That's Not to bad at all
my friends just got his notch wieghed last week and it weighed in at 2700 lbs, he took the bumpers out, took out all the crap out of the engine bay that wasn't needed, took out all of the stuff that he didn't need under the dash, pretty much the works...
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Old July 10th, 2009, 04:21 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by mounder27 View Post
my friends just got his notch wieghed last week and it weighed in at 2700 lbs, he took the bumpers out, took out all the crap out of the engine bay that wasn't needed, took out all of the stuff that he didn't need under the dash, pretty much the works...
Im half tempted to do that because its not a Daily Driver, its a toy.But i don't know if i want to get more serious and make it a dedicated drag car just yet.

Im just thinking more into the future, me and my Future Wife Want to get our own place Have kids etc etc. So money will be tighter im sure and all i will realy have time to do is tinker with the car here and there and track, lol.But i don't know if im putting the cart in front of the horse on this one.

If i can get the car to go 11s the way it sits,Mabye with the help of Juice dunno Why not try to make it 2800 lbs and go after 10s
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Old July 10th, 2009, 04:21 AM   #8
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as rev said, acidtonic is pretty much the master at wieght reduction
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Old July 10th, 2009, 01:45 PM   #9
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One test and tune day I took the spare and jack out. It wasn't worth it as I was spinning more off the line.

Subsequently, I moved my battery to the trunk and my launches are consistently better than before (almost always under 2.0 60').

Next time at the track I'm going to remove the front sway bar and see how much of a difference that will make on my 60' times.

Weight reduction is good in itself, but where on the car the weight comes off seems to be just as important.
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Old July 10th, 2009, 02:23 PM   #10
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Mine wieghs 2900 pounds with me in it! im 175 pounds!

manual steering, manual brakes, no interior, one single kirkey seat, bottle of nitrous (empty though) no fuel tank, fuel cell in the trunk, 351W with iron heads, and a C4. Light wieght wheels, and no dog bone...

Im sure I could drop another 50 pounds by doing a few more little things... but 2900 pounds with 400 RWHP (EST, and a transbrake) should do pretty good...
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Old July 10th, 2009, 03:09 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT View Post
Mine wieghs 2900 pounds with me in it! im 175 pounds!

manual steering, manual brakes, no interior, one single kirkey seat, bottle of nitrous (empty though) no fuel tank, fuel cell in the trunk, 351W with iron heads, and a C4. Light wieght wheels, and no dog bone...

Im sure I could drop another 50 pounds by doing a few more little things... but 2900 pounds with 400 RWHP (EST, and a transbrake) should do pretty good...
alumium heads ftw matt....
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Old July 11th, 2009, 01:07 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by HBK_2007 View Post
alumium heads ftw matt....
No... they take more compression to make power.... Ill stick with my irons now.... eventually have them worked over and put them on a 408 and should make some good power. 600+ at the tires...
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Old July 11th, 2009, 02:17 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT View Post
No... they take more compression to make power.... Ill stick with my irons now.... eventually have them worked over and put them on a 408 and should make some good power. 600+ at the tires...
didnt know that. that due to the iron holding more heat?
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Old July 11th, 2009, 02:49 AM   #14
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I Just Read a thread on modular misfits that gave me all the info on weight reduction ill ever need to know.I want to do it but im biting my nails thinking about it.Im so indecisive i might change my mind again.And on top of that i dont have my own place yet to store it so it would have to be outside and i dont have a damn trailor.So if gutted it would still have to be streetable enuff to drive to the track lol.
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Old July 11th, 2009, 02:56 AM   #15
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u really need to see what acidtonic has done to his cobra
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Old July 11th, 2009, 04:16 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by HBK_2007 View Post
u really need to see what acidtonic has done to his cobra

I don;t think hes got anything on this guy that i just read about.He took out some Crazy Shit i would have never thought of taking out but i could be wrong.I want the best of both worlds lol i want 2800 lbs but Street Worthy.
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Old July 11th, 2009, 04:52 AM   #17
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if i remember correctly, acidtonic drives his daily, or close to it anyway

edit: found his thread bout it. 97 Cobra Weight Reduction Pics. its kinda old so he might have gone further with it but u get the idea
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Old July 11th, 2009, 05:39 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by HBK_2007 View Post
if i remember correctly, acidtonic drives his daily, or close to it anyway

edit: found his thread bout it. 97 Cobra Weight Reduction Pics. its kinda old so he might have gone further with it but u get the idea
Ill Check it out.I was waiting for someone to post a link lol.I never heard of that s/n so i did not want to randomly ask him..thanks.
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Old July 11th, 2009, 06:08 AM   #19
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Check this guy out.

Ultimate Weight Reduction...Part Duex - Modular Misfits
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Old July 12th, 2009, 06:28 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT View Post
No... they take more compression to make power.... Ill stick with my irons now....
What? How does that work?!?

My understanding is that if you take identical castings, one iron, and one aluminum, they will make identical power.

Here's an excerpt from a Car Craft article where they did the exact comparison I'm talking about:
Can you guess what we learned? Zilcho. As in zero difference anywhere in the power or detonation characteristics of the iron versus aluminum heads. Even the optimum total ignition timing was the same at 36 degrees. Regardless of coolant temp, rate of acceleration, steady state, or through a sweep, the dyno curves for the two styles of heads were identical. If anything, we could squint and guess and mumble that maybe aluminum heads were better by 2-3 hp. But the one thing we could never say is that the iron heads retained more heat and made more power than the aluminum. Maybe it's different on some engines with a drastically different water-jacket design, but we'll stand up and say that the old bench-racing line just ain't true. - Aluminum Cylinder Heads Dyno Results - Car Craft Magazine
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