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Old January 18th, 2010, 09:57 PM   #1
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Broke into the 7's!


In the 1/8th mile of course... It was my first time on slicks and it seemed like the front would raise up hard and then the car would lurch forward a couple times. My 60' should be better and it definitely has a couple tenths still in it. I was also having some other problems: Problems at the Track Here's the time slip of my best and a video of a 7.9 run:

R/T----.073
60'-----1.838
330----5.212
MPH----68.31
1/8-----7.888
MPH----90.81

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Old January 18th, 2010, 10:54 PM   #2
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looks like the front tires came up a few inches... what were you launching at? The reason it falls on its face like that is because its bogging and then the kit pulls it out of the bog. The best way to launch with a kit and window switch is to keep your rpms low, at the last yellow go full throttle and dump the clutch... get it timed to where you are TRULY launching on the kit by going wot and hitting wot somewhere inside your nitrous window that will hook... i launched mine as close to the limiter as i could on nitrous. I would hold my rpm's at about 3800 and right at the last yellow i would go wot and the kit would spray right as i was dumping the clutch, so there was no bog.
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Old January 18th, 2010, 10:59 PM   #3
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Wire up the kit like this then me know how it comes out of the whole....
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Old January 18th, 2010, 11:12 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by mystang0673 View Post
looks like the front tires came up a few inches... what were you launching at? The reason it falls on its face like that is because its bogging and then the kit pulls it out of the bog. The best way to launch with a kit and window switch is to keep your rpms low, at the last yellow go full throttle and dump the clutch... get it timed to where you are TRULY launching on the kit by going wot and hitting wot somewhere inside your nitrous window that will hook... i launched mine as close to the limiter as i could on nitrous. I would hold my rpm's at about 3800 and right at the last yellow i would go wot and the kit would spray right as i was dumping the clutch, so there was no bog.
You should have seen the first run, the front came up more. It caught me off guard. I held it at 3500 and dumped the clutch.

Originally Posted by C MY 4D View Post
Wire up the kit like this then me know how it comes out of the hole....
I'm not too great with wiring, but i'll show the diagram to the guy who helped me with it. What's the difference other than the 2 step?
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Old January 18th, 2010, 11:15 PM   #5
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the nitrous kit comes on as soon as the clutch is released.
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Old January 18th, 2010, 11:20 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by C MY 4D View Post
the nitrous kit comes on as soon as the clutch is released.
Interesting... Is that safe though? I guess it would still have to be within the window.
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Old January 18th, 2010, 11:24 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by C MY 4D View Post
the nitrous kit comes on as soon as the clutch is released.
the only bad part about that is that there is a little delay for the kit to come on, and by then the car has already hooked and bogged because it was on motor for that split second, which can cause the car to unload the suspension and then spin with the kit comes on....
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Old January 18th, 2010, 11:26 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by MellowYellow View Post
You should have seen the first run, the front came up more. It caught me off guard. I held it at 3500 and dumped the clutch.



I'm not too great with wiring, but i'll show the diagram to the guy who helped me with it. What's the difference other than the 2 step?
do you have a built rear end? looks like you launched and didnt nail into the throttle right when you launched. kinda like you stuck the throttle at 3500 and held it there, launched, it bogged, then you went wot.. and its gonna bog no matter what rpm you launch at that way... right when you dump the clutch you need to nail the throttle so it wont bog
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Old January 18th, 2010, 11:26 PM   #9
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yes as long as you know how that works. basically you roll up to the line and once staged you depress the clutch and tap the momentary button then arm the n20. you then press the gas pedal to the floor, the 2-step kicks in. let off the clutch the 2step cuts off the n20 activates and then you hold on.
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Old January 18th, 2010, 11:28 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by mystang0673 View Post
the only bad part about that is that there is a little delay for the kit to come on, and by then the car has already hooked and bogged because it was on motor for that split second, which can cause the car to unload the suspension and then spin with the kit comes on....
Um no.... because a properly setup n20 kit will have a purge. that relay will activate the system long before the car bogs. If you don't believe me I'll have it wired into my car very soon....
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Old January 18th, 2010, 11:31 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by mystang0673 View Post
the only bad part about that is that there is a little delay for the kit to come on, and by then the car has already hooked and bogged because it was on motor for that split second, which can cause the car to unload the suspension and then spin with the kit comes on....
Yep, that's exactly what happened. The suspension unloaded a couple times my first run.

Originally Posted by mystang0673 View Post
do you have a built rear end? looks like you launched and didnt nail into the throttle right when you launched. kinda like you stuck the throttle at 3500 and held it there, launched, it bogged, then you went wot.. and its gonna bog no matter what rpm you launch at that way... right when you dump the clutch you need to nail the throttle so it wont bog
I'm pretty sure I floored it, but who knows. It's the stock rear end btw. I'm upgrading this summer.
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Old January 18th, 2010, 11:32 PM   #12
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a gear will certainly help it come out fo the whole
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Old January 18th, 2010, 11:37 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by C MY 4D View Post
a gear will certainly help it come out fo the whole
Well, I have 373's, but it's the stock differential and axles.
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Old January 18th, 2010, 11:43 PM   #14
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and those are just weak points.... they have nothing to do with the car bogging. you are either coming out of the whole to soft or there isn't enough gear.
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Old January 18th, 2010, 11:47 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by C MY 4D View Post
and those are just weak points.... they have nothing to do with the car bogging. you are either coming out of the whole to soft or there isn't enough gear.
Yea I know, I thought mystang was implying that I needed 31 splines.
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Old January 31st, 2010, 06:48 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by mystang0673 View Post
do you have a built rear end? looks like you launched and didnt nail into the throttle right when you launched. kinda like you stuck the throttle at 3500 and held it there, launched, it bogged, then you went wot.. and its gonna bog no matter what rpm you launch at that way... right when you dump the clutch you need to nail the throttle so it wont bog
I launch my car just like you discribe and it never bogs. My best 60' launching like that is a 1.68 on slicks. i hold it about 3500 nail it at the last yellow then dump the clutch and it pulls the stock 17" bullitts off the ground.
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Old January 31st, 2010, 07:39 PM   #17
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damn, if i ever got my car to pull off the ground I would piss myself. Its most likely not happening anytime soon due to my having a v6 and an auto haha. Great car man
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Old February 8th, 2010, 02:16 AM   #18
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thats awesome to see man. what track are u at? im traveling all around texas this year to try out different tracks.
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Old February 8th, 2010, 12:16 PM   #19
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Billy do you know if that wiring diagram you posted would work with tps switch instead of a wot switch? My window switch has a built in tps for sensing WOT instead of one of the mechanical switches your talking about.
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Old February 8th, 2010, 01:31 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by GTermi View Post
thats awesome to see man. what track are u at? im traveling all around texas this year to try out different tracks.
Texas raceway in Kennedale, they resurfaced it a couple years ago so it's in pretty good shape. Try out the track in Ennis and Houston for sure.
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