[LAWNDART02]

Hey guys-
Would a set of 245/45/17 Drag Radials be good for a totally stock 2V?
What RPM range will they hold at a launch?

Thanks-

[bitemark46]

Probably around 4k I woud guess. I take it you have stock gears? But its a crap shoot on the rear end holding sinces you're on the stock diff.

[LAWNDART02]

Good point.
Maybe a better question is what RPM will dog it, and where will it actually hook and make positive accelleration?

Guess I'll just have to try and see.
I'm just wondering if the DR's WILL hook, the rest is probably trial and error.

[casper gt]

best to stay away from d/r's on a stick car, even a stock one, too hard on the rear.

[F8L GT]

Originally Posted by casper gt best to stay away from d/r's on a stick car, even a stock one, too hard on the rear.

+111111111

[LAWNDART02]

cheap
fast
reliable

>pick two.

love it. Guess I'll just go for the beef-up first. I do plan on beatin the hell out of it.
Took it to the track last year and that sh!T was a blast. Don't know WTF I'm doing yet, but it was great.
Thanks Guys-

[mrbigjeep]

it should hold a 4-4500 launch just fine...and your not gonna be able to dump it anyway...gonna have to slip it...so the drag radial should work just fine.

[casper gt]

Originally Posted by mrbigjeep it should hold a 4-4500 launch just fine...and your not gonna be able to dump it anyway...gonna have to slip it...so the drag radial should work just fine.

tell that to all the guys with broken spider gears from drag radials balling up & snapping back on them.

[mrbigjeep]

yep and those same guys are usually the ones DUMPING the clutch

[casper gt]

dumping or slipping the clutch, a good hook is a good hook.

[mrbigjeep]

?

power being suddenly shocked to the tires as opposed to gradually applied

[casper gt]

Stock Rear with NT555R's and Blower? mabie this thread can help explain why d/r's & a stick are a bad idea. alot of guys in that thread spend quite a bit of time at the track, are they ALL wrong?

[mrbigjeep]

why do you need to post a link to that thread? uhh i have obviously already read it as i POSTED in it...

and guess what, every single breakage posted on that thread was with DUMPING the clutch...no freaking kidding dumping the clutch with a drag radial could be asking for some breakage as opposed to a bias ply slick...nothing new. but big difference in slipping and dumping. not near as much stress when gradually applying the power to the rear as opposed to all the power slammed to the rear at once.

[casper gt]

I felt the need to post that thread because you always seem to have some smart ass remark to pretty much everything I have ever said about drag racing even though it's clear from your posts you have very little track experiance

[1979rs/z28]

Are you talking 555r radials? These 8.8s arent made of glass exactly either I wish my car had one, had a buddy with a 99 gt that held 80+ m/t passes with 1.6 60 foots with no problem. The clutch gave ghost but like mrbigjeep said driver determines whether the rear will break or not. I wouldnt go off to say he dosent have alot of drag experience either has his times seem to be better than 98% of the ones I see on this forum for his mods.

Coming from someone with a 400hp car on a 7.5'' rear.

[mrbigjeep]

thanks

casper, you act like i'm saying there are never breakages with drag radials on a stick car. lets get this straight....
THERE HAVE BEEN MANY BREAKAGES WITH DRAG RADIALS ON STICK CARS
A BIAS PLY SLICK WOULD BE MUCH EASIER ON THE REAR END
NO FREAKING KIDDING.
my one and only simple point was that if you SLIP the clutch instead of dump it (when most breakages happen) you should be fine.

i rarely, if ever, see that someone broke something in the rear end after slipping the clutch out gradually...for example. every breakage post in that thread was with dumping the clutch. nothing i just said goes against what anyone said in that thread as i still agree that drag radials are harder on the rear. but IMO slipping the clutch is less stress and will lessen the chance of breakage.

I haven't had a problem yet but if i do, you'll be the first to know! oh and before you put words in my mouth, i am also definitely not saying its impossible to break parts if you DO slip the clutch.

[saxmanJJ]

To the OP, if you want to hook really well I'd suggest getting some 15 X 8 wheels with some 275/50/15 drag radials, preferably something other than Nitto 555Rs, which are marginally stickier than stock tires.

[saxmanJJ]

And as far as what rpms to launch at, every car is a little different (and every day at the track is different: track surface prep, weather, etc.) and part of the fun is trying to find that answer ...

[Blackbird1084]

I've had nitto's and m/t's on my TA and never had any problems out of my tiny 7.5 10 bolt thats still in my car. I'll find out how hard dr's are on a stick car this year as i'll be getting the new nitto nt05r drag radials and seeing how they hold up.

[Blackbird1084]

Oh to the op a 245/45/17 dr will probably work best if you launch it around 3500 slipping the clutch just alittle. That size/type of tire doesn't have enough grip to break anything with a bone stock car imo. But a sticky m/t or hoosier might break a rearend if abused but the again everything will eventualy break if abused.