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Old April 21st, 2011, 08:21 PM   #1
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Screwing Tires


I thought I would put this here since its more drag specific than model specific.

I would recommend anyone with a track only set of slicks to do this. It is cheap insurance that you wont spin a rim which will hurt your 60' times.

Most screw kits come with 35 screws and are for one tire ea. usually 32 screws with 3 spares. On most cars this is way over kill. I decided to go with 18 screws per wheel. This is best done with the tire already mounted on the wheel. Air the tire up to the highest it can go. Most tires will tell you on the sidewall. My Hoosiers said not to exceed 40psi while mounting, so I aired mine up to 35 psi to be safe. Airing them up high like this makes the bead push harder on the rim and takes any slack out of the rubber.

Figure out what your spacing would be to give you equal spacing all the way around. With the 9 holes I chose, 5.25" is what the spacing was between my screws. With a divider, find the location of your first hole. Put one side of the divider on your mark and use the other side to locate where the next hole will be. Do this all the way around the wheel


Next, set the divider the distance to set the screw in from the edge of the rim, I went a little over half the diameter of the screw head.


To make it easier to drill the holes, center punch the location of the cross marks left from scribing the location holes


next, drill the holes on your marks. While drilling them, angle the drill so the tip is facing slightly towards the tread of the tire. (so the top of the drill will be angled towards the center of the wheel)


Using an impact of drill, slowly screw in the screws. Be careful not to use to much power, you could strip the threads of the screw.


Repeat until you have all the screws in
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Old April 22nd, 2011, 10:27 AM   #2
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good write up.. My wheels only have 5 holes. One at the tip of each spoke.
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Old April 22nd, 2011, 10:28 AM   #3
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nice job dude, this the second time i have read this today lol
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Old April 22nd, 2011, 11:34 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Willy Mo View Post
good write up.. My wheels only have 5 holes. One at the tip of each spoke.
5 is enough screws. I went with 9 because thats the biggest my divider would go and still have them come out to equally spaced
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Old April 22nd, 2011, 12:57 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by F8L GT View Post
5 is enough screws. I went with 9 because thats the biggest my divider would go and still have them come out to equally spaced
its all good. a couple more screws never hurt anybody. I hope i dont have to screw mine anytime soon.
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Old April 22nd, 2011, 06:00 PM   #6
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do yourself a favor and put a mark on the tire by the valve stem. That will tell you whether or not the rim is spinning in the tire
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Old April 23rd, 2011, 03:47 PM   #7
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Very nice!
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Old April 23rd, 2011, 03:52 PM   #8
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could you post a link to the type of screws you went with?
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Old April 23rd, 2011, 03:54 PM   #9
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Here are links for screw kits available from both Jegs and Summit


Wheel Rim Screws Wheels

Wheel Screws - Wheels & Tires - SummitRacing.com
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Old April 23rd, 2011, 06:46 PM   #10
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Thanks
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Old March 20th, 2012, 01:28 PM   #11
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Would like to add, the screws need to be exactly the same spot on both sides of the rim. If you have ever noticed, the wrinkle in a tire now will stem from the screws and if they are not concientent side to side, the wrinkles won't be even and will cause balling up issues.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 01:43 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT View Post
Would like to add, the screws need to be exactly the same spot on both sides of the rim. If you have ever noticed, the wrinkle in a tire now will stem from the screws and if they are not concientent side to side, the wrinkles won't be even and will cause balling up issues.
I was going to post the same thing. Also, if you're having issues slipping the tire on the rim, and don't want to screw them, try more air pressure. A lot of people think it's better to run less pressure, when truth be told, you want to run the most you can, and make it work.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 01:54 PM   #13
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Exactly. My tire pressure isn't decided on how the car hooks off the line, but rather the marks the tires leave. A nice solid stripe of black is what I go for.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 01:55 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 69fastback View Post
I was going to post the same thing. Also, if you're having issues slipping the tire on the rim, and don't want to screw them, try more air pressure. A lot of people think it's better to run less pressure, when truth be told, you want to run the most you can, and make it work.
Wheel speed People automatically assume slicks want like 10psi when you really want to up the pressure until it spins. Less rolling resistance = winning.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 03:09 AM   #15
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Were you actually having tire slipping issues, or was it just for extra security? Ive never actually checked mine to see.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 09:26 AM   #16
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Yes I was having slipping issues. Whenever I mount a set of tires, I put a show polish mark on the tire in relation to where the valve stem is
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Old March 31st, 2012, 01:57 PM   #17
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I've marked my rim/tire to see if my tire was spinning on the rim.
It didn't move at all.
I'm using ET Street Radials though - maybe it's not an issue because of the tires I'm using???
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Old March 31st, 2012, 02:59 PM   #18
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Radials run more pressure and that has a lot to do with it
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Old March 31st, 2012, 03:03 PM   #19
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I guess I'll have to mark mine this season to see if I have any movement
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