[wraitherx]

After a couple of you guys have experienced this problem I was bound to find something to alleviate the problem. This problem seems to be more prevailant with the newer radios as I have found out that some companies have taken out the internal delays that they used to put in to alleviate this problem. As I have said before, this is not a problem all the time with system integration. Just with some of the newer units. Even using a diode or a resistor inline with the remote turn on wire did not solve the problem. I have found this from a buddy of mine that I still keep in conctact with over @ Pioneer and said that this is the best solution to the problem. I have recreated the problem in my set-up as well as my buddies to make sure that we corrected the problem. In both instances we did solve the probelm with this information and now we pass it on to you. If you have any questions feel free to ask. All parts can be purchased at your local radio shack for relatively cheap so just in case you mess up go ahead an purchase a couple as they come in handy for other things as well.


Occasionally, after installing a new component in your car stereo system, you will notice a 'pop' when you turn the receiver On or Off. This is usually caused during shut-down of the power by components in the system which turn off before the amplifier turns off. In most cases, the component is an EQ, signal processor (IE... factory amplifier). Usually adding a slight turn-off delay to the processor in question can solve this problem. This added delay allows the processor to remain on until the amplifier has powered down, thus preventing the pop.

If you have the 'pop' when the system turns on, it may be due to the amplifier turning on prior to the offending component. Adding a little turn-on delay to the amplifier will usually resolve this. Many components sold today have these delays built in. Check the manual to see if this is an adjustable feature on your component if you have this problem.

If your processor does not offer this feature, you can build your own delay circuit with a 1N4004 diode and a capacitor. Add a diode in series with the processor's turn-on lead, striped side of the diode towards the EQ. Then add a capacitor in parallel, the positive side of the capacitor connected to the striped side of the diode, the negative side of the capacitor going to the vehicle's chassis ground (NOT to the body of the radio or processor chassis). Experimenting with the capacitor value will give you the right amount of delay before the EQ shuts off. You don't want it to be very long, just long enough to make sure the amp is off before the EQ powers down. The capacitor value of 220-1000 uF is about right, and make sure the capacitor is a polarized electrolytic, 16V or higher. The diode alone will introduce a 0.7V drop on the remote wire, but this usually does not effect most processors enough to cause them to shut down earlier than the rest of the system.

[RyanGT]

Cool wraith, your are the man! Question on what wire to do this too? Power? Give me a color! Also you want to put the negative of the capacitor on a separate ground, not complete the circuit on the wire it is added to?

Do we need all those relays, or is that built in to radio and we just need to worry about capacitor/ diode?

[wraitherx]

alright, tried another trick and it seems to work and is by far cheaper. If this method doesnt work then you may have to try the other first method. this method was tried on a factory mach system with a pioneer unit today.

Parts needed:
1) Soldering Iron
2) Solder
3) heat shrink tubing
4) electrical tape
5) 5v fixed regulator part # 276-1770 from radioshack
+5V Fixed-Voltage Regulator 7805 - RadioShack.com
6) extra wire

Steps:

1) you need to gain access to your Blue/White remote turn on wire. you will cut it so that you will have one from the radio side and then one from the car side. Strip each wire back at least an inch.

2) you will then take the heat shrink tubing and place it on each wire for use later.

3) Take the Blue/White wire from the ford harness and afix it with solder to the first prong of the regulator. Move the heat shrink tubing up and and shrink it around the connection.

4) Take an extra piece of wire and place shrink tubing on it and have 1" of wire exposed. Take it and afix to the middle prong of voltage regulator with solder. Move tubing up and heat to cover connection. Take the other end and take it to a ground source.

5) Take Blue/White wire from head unit harness and afix it to the third prong on the voltage regulator with solder. Move up the tubing and then heat to cover connection.

6) manuvear the regulator so that you can zip tie it with your wires that are already connected and make sure to tape the metal prong on top of the regulator to ensure that it doesnt accidentally splice or cut anything.

7) before putting everything back together test for functionality and enjoy

[An82Mustang]

You are the man... I did the second mod to mine today (The 5 vold mod) and it works great... Thanks again...

[wraitherx]

Originally Posted by An82Mustang You are the man... I did the second mod to mine today (The 5 vold mod) and it works great... Thanks again...

Glad it worked for you

[RyanGT]

Cool, ill try it out when i can run up to radio shack

[RyanGT]

Worked like a charm! Pain in the ass to solder to those tiny prongs though. But in the end no pop! So worth it. thanks Wraith

[wraitherx]

No problem, glad it worked out for you.

[XTCNAGT]

I know what IIIIIIIIIIII'll be doing on my day off friday

Thanks man, this is much appreciated.

[XTCNAGT]

Worked like a charm, man! Thanks so much for getting this info for everyone. You're the man.

I gotta rep around before I can get you again, but I'll get you eventually.

[wraitherx]

Originally Posted by XTCNAGT Worked like a charm, man! Thanks so much for getting this info for everyone. You're the man. I gotta rep around before I can get you again, but I'll get you eventually.

glad it worked out for you. now go and enjoy your system

[Redfire66]

Wraith,
That is a nice write up. I just bought the Pioneer AVHP3200 dvd and it seems like alot of the Pioneers have the pop. Will all the manuals have something telling you about these built in delays?

[wraitherx]

Originally Posted by Redfire66 Wraith, That is a nice write up. I just bought the Pioneer AVHP3200 dvd and it seems like alot of the Pioneers have the pop. Will all the manuals have something telling you about these built in delays?

thanks and no they wont unfortunately. The older models had it built in but also never had it in the manual only way an installer would know is by contacting the manufacturer and asking specifically.

[Redfire66]

ok thanks Wraith. I'll call Pioneer on Monday about the delay. I have a feeling they won't have any idea what I'm talking about tho.

I'll probably have to avoid Best Buy installing the stereo. They won't know how to install the 5V regulator. Wondering how much extra this will cost on top of the normal installation fees.

[wraitherx]

I just answered your thread. It is really easy bro. I say save yourself some money and let me walk you through the installation

[swalt]

I installed the Kenwood DNX6140 last year and had the infamous "pop" noise which my local stereo shop said they could not resolve, but they said it happens on all the Ford Mustangs and F150's with the factory amps. I found the 5V regulator write up and had it installed and worked beautifully. Local stereo shop keeps a supply of them already soldered and prewired for their installs. It is a must for anyone upgrading their system while using the factory amps.

[wrathchild]

Originally Posted by wraitherx alright, tried another trick and it seems to work and is by far cheaper. If this method doesnt work then you may have to try the other first method. this method was tried on a factory mach system with a pioneer unit today. Parts needed: 1) Soldering Iron 2) Solder 3) heat shrink tubing 4) electrical tape 5) 5v fixed regulator part # 276-1770 from radioshack +5V Fixed-Voltage Regulator 7805 - RadioShack.com 6) extra wire Steps: 1) you need to gain access to your Blue/White remote turn on wire. you will cut it so that you will have one from the radio side and then one from the car side. Strip each wire back at least an inch. 2) you will then take the heat shrink tubing and place it on each wire for use later. 3) Take the Blue/White wire from the ford harness and afix it with solder to the first prong of the regulator. Move the heat shrink tubing up and and shrink it around the connection. 4) Take an extra piece of wire and place shrink tubing on it and have 1" of wire exposed. Take it and afix to the middle prong of voltage regulator with solder. Move tubing up and heat to cover connection. Take the other end and take it to a ground source. 5) Take Blue/White wire from head unit harness and afix it to the third prong on the voltage regulator with solder. Move up the tubing and then heat to cover connection. 6) manuvear the regulator so that you can zip tie it with your wires that are already connected and make sure to tape the metal prong on top of the regulator to ensure that it doesnt accidentally splice or cut anything. 7) before putting everything back together test for functionality and enjoy

Just installed my HU today, did this mod, still get the pop. Going to pull it back out at some point and double check everything.

[swalt]

Originally Posted by wrathchild Just installed my HU today, did this mod, still get the pop. Going to pull it back out at some point and double check everything.

Make sure you have a good ground. Pretty much idiot proof in wiring this up so if you still have the pop after checking the ground, try replacing the 5v regulator.