[TurboLX]

Thanks To MustangMatt96GT for the awesome write up!

Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT It is common knowledge that the stock Oil Pressure gauge and Water temp gauges are completley inaccurate. But who would have thought the Tachometer. It is completely in accurate. Some times i would bounce off the limiter at the track at 5500 RPM and next time around 5700 RPM. It made me concentrate, and not get as good of times, because i bounced off the limiter because of inaccurate gauges! I bought a Autometer aftermarket 5 inch tach with Shift light. I also bought a UPR tach bracket. Both are very high quality. The instructions didnt come with it because i bought it used. But i have found a great set of instructions. Here is the link. http://www.egauges.com/pdf/AutoMeter/859e.pdf 1. Unscrew the Gauge Cluster bezel and take the headlight knob off. (i just pull really hard and it comes off everytime) 2. Take the two torx screws out of the center dash portion above the CD player, and then take the CD player and Radio out. 3 Behind the Radio, there is a torx screw back in there holding the bezel on. Take the screw out and then pull on the bezel. It will come off. 4. Now take the two torx screws out on the left of the AC controls. Not take the tach, and its bracket, and screw the screws back in. Now reassemble the center dash, and plug the radio and CD players back in. (If mounting the tach elsewhere disregard steps 2-4) Now your dash should look something like this. Next step is to wire it up. Take the actual gauge cluster out. There are 4 torx screws holding it in. You will have to unplug two plugs from it too. 5. There is a black and a white plug. Take the white plug. And find the Tan and yellow wire, in pin 8. That is the tach signal wire. That is what the tach wire will be connected to. In my case, it was a green wire. I used scotch locks to tap into the wires. Now all you need is a power source for the tach itself, a ground, and a power source for the light. You dont want the light on all the time, so you have to tap into a wire that will only give power to that when the lights are on. This wire can be found, along with the power wire for the tach, and the ground, from the rear defroster switch. In my picture there are already wires tapped into it, because i have my other gauges running off of the same wires. The Rear Defroster Switch is protected by a fuse. This is a picture of the wiring of the Rear Defroster Switch The Pink/Light blue (Pin 3) wire is the power wire to the tach. In this case, that was my red wire. So I scotch locked it in place there. The Black wire in (Pin 4) is the ground. You can scotch lock to that, but i just found a new ground under the dash. The Light blue/Red switch (Pin 5), is the power for the Lighting, so i connected my white wire to that. Now reconnect the wires to the back of the gauge cluster, and reinstall it. all the wires should be hidden behind the cluster now. So put the bezel back on. Turn on the lights, and see if the power to the light is working. If that checks out, put the car on the Start Position. If it goes to 0 and the light lights up then everything is checking out. Next fire up the car, and see if the tach works! If it does, set the shift points and have fun! Completed Pictures! Completed Movie! Make sure it worked! Compare to my Stock tach. How my car idles! A 96 GT with stock computer tune Bounces off the limiter at 5900 RPM And the stock tach was completely inaccurate. Good luck! and Ujslost thanks for the help with the wiring diagrams! Any questions just let me know!

[thaited]

Kinda reminds me of that time I put together one of those inflatable bounce house things, but that didn't go so well. Well, no not actually I just though that was funny.

Nice and thank you for the great writeup.