[kerry]

i have a power acustik mofo 10in sub. its' max is 2400 watt and rms said around 1200. i have a 2000 pyrimid amp. we have measured the amp to put out 1250watts constantly. its a sealed inclosure
when it is at most low frequencys the speaker rattles and i have no clue what it is. we took it out of the box and it still did it. does anyone have a clue?? this thing has around 3 in of travel!!

also usually in summer time, the sub will stop after around 30 minutes of hard playing. i have a bass booster knob in under my headunit and the power light goes out at the same time. meaning that power is not getting to the amp, or maybe power is not going out, i dont know where on the circuit the booster is at. any help?!?!!?

[itschristorres8]

idk my amp did the same turns out i blew it..
if its rattleing u might have cracked the speaker...u'll need a new one if soo, look at it and see.
my cuzin did the same blasting his music and a week later he had 4 cracked speakers

[kerry]

i dont think so because it rattled nearly right out of the box and i broke it in properly. i have had it now for over a year soo i think its summin else.
i mean it hits very hard for a sealed 10in but i would like for it to sound good when i open the trunk.
i have heard about subs "bottoming out" becuase of back pressure issues.
what does that mean?

[itschristorres8]

no clue man srry
my bro has three 12's in his car..and its the loudest ive heard yet. i can hear it from over 200ft away easy. when he comes home my window shakes...
are u sure its not cracked? if not it might be against sumthin causing it to rattle

[320hpPony?]

Rattling might be 1 of a few things. Check your box a "rattling" sound may be because the box wasn't properly glued/sealed from the factory. You might have even "beat" one of the staples out of the box and the rattling is the wood vibrating. The other option is like what was said before: you cracked your sub. That doesnt mean likea big ol' crack in it but could be the voice coil seperated from the spider/cone assembly.You could have done this or it could be a factory defect. It could also be the magnet seperating from the basket,again it could be from your use or a factory defect.
Another thing is the fact that this speaker was designed for a ported enclosure(1.75cubic feet tuned at 40hz).Putting a apeaker that was designed for a ported box into a sealed box will make things happen that you don't like and will(in most cases)ruin your speaker(s).
Your speaker is rated at 1000 watts RMS by the way. And I hate to argue with ya but I would almost bet my right nut that your Pyramid amp is by no means rms'in 1250watts! Maybe 800(if your amp's model # is PB1845X, they won't even put up the rms wattage for it so 800 watts rms is giving you a huge compliment really) but hey, if it makes the car go boom then thats all that counts right?
As for your amp turning off in the summer is because you have tripped the "thermal protection" circuit.That means the amp has gotten too hot to keep running. There could be a few reasons for this to happen. One usually is that the amp has no room to breath(which your does!),The way your sub is wired to the amp(you really have only 1 proper option to get the amps full potential, each set of terminals on the back of the speaker to a bridged output on the amp{channels 1&2 bridged to one side of the speaker and channels 3&4 bridged to the other set of terminals on the speaker]) and the infamous problem of having the gain set too high. A lot of people think this knob/dial is for volume since turning it up will make the sub "louder". It is intended to match the pre-amp output of the head unit to the amplifier. You really need an Oscilliscope to properly set this but MY rule of thumb is Never turn it up past 3/8 of the way up. If the gain is set too far up you can damage one of two things: one bieng the input stage of the amplifier(shit amplified at 4000 watts is still shit!) and two can blow your sub(distortion at 1 watt can blow a 2000 watt sub,no joke!)

Just for shits and giggles check your x-over frequency also I personally wouldn't let over 90hz into your sub. Your amp should have a selectable LPF like at 45hz,80hz,&120hz. 80 would be your best bet though.

Any question,comments,or need help e-mail me at hpjunkie302@netzero.net

MECP certified
14 years audio/visual experience