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		<title>Forums at Modded Mustangs - 2005+</title>
		<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums</link>
		<description>Tech for the 2005 and newer Ford Mustangs with the 4.6L 3v (or 4v DOHC) modular engine. Includes Shelby vehicles such as the GT and GT500.</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 18:16:15 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Forums at Modded Mustangs - 2005+</title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>Wheel Finish Problem.</title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144149-wheel-finish-problem.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 17:45:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>After cleaning my car yesterday, I noticed that there is something wrong with the finish on my wheels.  In some spots the finish looks ruined around the lip.  I used Eagle 1 wheel cleaner, which I never I had problem before with it.  The wheel are FR500 and they are less than 2 mths old.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>After cleaning my car yesterday, I noticed that there is something wrong with the finish on my wheels.  In some spots the finish looks ruined around the lip.  I used Eagle 1 wheel cleaner, which I never I had problem before with it.  The wheel are FR500 and they are less than 2 mths old.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/">2005+</category>
			<dc:creator>gragra73</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144149-wheel-finish-problem.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>I take it back</title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144132-i-take-back.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:37:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've been suggesting McLeod's adjustable release brg for for quite some time on the boards. I've got some decent experience with these and after about 2 years with this set up on two '05 mustangs here I've concluded that this set up is not intended for daily drivers. Neither of these 2 cars are daily drivers.

I installed the first one on my car about 2 years ago. It's been fine and has only left a drip or 2 here and there in my garage in this time period. McLeod stresses NOT to adjust this unit while in the bell housing on their latest instruction paperwork included in the box. Mine never warned of this. Not that it matters as far as leaks go. I have adjusted mine on several occasions without removing the transmission. I just rotated it inside of the bell housing as my clutch would wear over a couple of thousand miles. I figured it was because of this that mine leaked a little.

We installed one in my son's '05 about a year ago (after a Ram failed immediately). The Mcleod unit leaked, but I assumed it may have been because we had it adjusted too far away from the diaphram and it possibly overextended. Not the case. I removed it and rebuilt the cylinder which takes about 20 minutes and involves a simple seal kit. I've rebuilt literally hundreds of hydraulic cylinders over the years so I'm well qualified to install a seal kit in this puny piece. I lubricated all seal rings with dot 3 fluid and cleaned all parts carefully and assembled it with extreme care being sure not to tear or damage any rubber parts during assembly. No problem, put it in the car and it's been fine for a year. The adjustment was correct.

The other day it puked all fluid out and the pedal hit the floor and stayed there. The boy drove the car 20 miles or so home with no clutch function whatsoever. I instructed him on how to do this more than a year ago when the Ram garbage popped on him.

We pulled the tranny, disassembled the slave to find the billet piston has evidence of seizure...yes, scratches along the piston. $550 part ready for the trash can. I attribute this to an engineering flaw where the genious didn't figure heat expansion into the design. Same thing I saw with the Ram set up. The Ram spit out o-rings in shreads like freakin cotton candy.

Anyway, he went back to stock with a steel braided hydraulic line upgrade from JPC Racing which is a nice piece which is supposed to flow more. Tommy Godfrey informed me that the '07-up clutch MASTER cylinder is supposed to be a better master than earlier models so figured I'd throw that info out there for you guys too.

Anyway, a week earlier, my slave popped too. I pulled mine apart and had no seizure evidence. I installed another seal kit in mine and still have the McLeod unit in my car which only sees a few K miles per year. I'll let you guys know what happens. While inspecting the slave during the seal kit installation I noticed that rotating it while in the bell housing rather than removing it and adjusting the sleeve in your hand does not matter in the area of possibly causing seals to tear or anything like that.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I've been suggesting McLeod's adjustable release brg for for quite some time on the boards. I've got some decent experience with these and after about 2 years with this set up on two '05 mustangs here I've concluded that this set up is not intended for daily drivers. Neither of these 2 cars are daily drivers.<br />
<br />
I installed the first one on my car about 2 years ago. It's been fine and has only left a drip or 2 here and there in my garage in this time period. McLeod stresses NOT to adjust this unit while in the bell housing on their latest instruction paperwork included in the box. Mine never warned of this. Not that it matters as far as leaks go. I have adjusted mine on several occasions without removing the transmission. I just rotated it inside of the bell housing as my clutch would wear over a couple of thousand miles. I figured it was because of this that mine leaked a little.<br />
<br />
We installed one in my son's '05 about a year ago (after a Ram failed immediately). The Mcleod unit leaked, but I assumed it may have been because we had it adjusted too far away from the diaphram and it possibly overextended. Not the case. I removed it and rebuilt the cylinder which takes about 20 minutes and involves a simple seal kit. I've rebuilt literally hundreds of hydraulic cylinders over the years so I'm well qualified to install a seal kit in this puny piece. I lubricated all seal rings with dot 3 fluid and cleaned all parts carefully and assembled it with extreme care being sure not to tear or damage any rubber parts during assembly. No problem, put it in the car and it's been fine for a year. The adjustment was correct.<br />
<br />
The other day it puked all fluid out and the pedal hit the floor and stayed there. The boy drove the car 20 miles or so home with no clutch function whatsoever. I instructed him on how to do this more than a year ago when the Ram garbage popped on him.<br />
<br />
We pulled the tranny, disassembled the slave to find the billet piston has evidence of seizure...yes, scratches along the piston. $550 part ready for the trash can. I attribute this to an engineering flaw where the genious didn't figure heat expansion into the design. Same thing I saw with the Ram set up. The Ram spit out o-rings in shreads like freakin cotton candy.<br />
<br />
Anyway, he went back to stock with a steel braided hydraulic line upgrade from JPC Racing which is a nice piece which is supposed to flow more. Tommy Godfrey informed me that the '07-up clutch MASTER cylinder is supposed to be a better master than earlier models so figured I'd throw that info out there for you guys too.<br />
<br />
Anyway, a week earlier, my slave popped too. I pulled mine apart and had no seizure evidence. I installed another seal kit in mine and still have the McLeod unit in my car which only sees a few K miles per year. I'll let you guys know what happens. While inspecting the slave during the seal kit installation I noticed that rotating it while in the bell housing rather than removing it and adjusting the sleeve in your hand does not matter in the area of possibly causing seals to tear or anything like that.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/">2005+</category>
			<dc:creator>Anthony05GT</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144132-i-take-back.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Check Charging System Light!!</title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144114-check-charging-system-light.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 03:37:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I was warming up my stang earlier and noticed the revs when up when started up to 2000 and sustained for a few seconds. Left the car and the engine running, when I came back the charging system light was on. I noticed the revs where between 500 and 750. I started to rev up the engine when all of a sudden the charging light goes away, waited again then came back on. I was checking the Haynes Book and I have the impression is either the belt, belt tensioner or the alternator. The belt was replaced when I installed the Paxton. What do you guys think.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I was warming up my stang earlier and noticed the revs when up when started up to 2000 and sustained for a few seconds. Left the car and the engine running, when I came back the charging system light was on. I noticed the revs where between 500 and 750. I started to rev up the engine when all of a sudden the charging light goes away, waited again then came back on. I was checking the Haynes Book and I have the impression is either the belt, belt tensioner or the alternator. The belt was replaced when I installed the Paxton. What do you guys think.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/">2005+</category>
			<dc:creator>Mr.Stang08</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144114-check-charging-system-light.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>New project</title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144099-new-project.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:57:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Painting my boom tubes. Got tired of seeing the extra carbon build up cause of the O/R X.

Pics:
Sanded w/ 220
Image: http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af75/vastang07/101_0012.jpg 
Sanded w/ 800
Image: http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af75/vastang07/101_0012.jpg 
First coat of paint
Image: http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af75/vastang07/101_0014.jpg 
After 3 coats of paint and 2 coats or clear(still in the process of drying)
Image: http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af75/vastang07/101_0017.jpg 
Image: http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af75/vastang07/101_0018.jpg 


I'll post finished pics in the morning. Still need to wet sand w/ 2000]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Painting my boom tubes. Got tired of seeing the extra carbon build up cause of the O/R X.<br />
<br />
Pics:<br />
Sanded w/ 220<br />
<img src="http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af75/vastang07/101_0012.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
Sanded w/ 800<br />
<img src="http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af75/vastang07/101_0012.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
First coat of paint<br />
<img src="http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af75/vastang07/101_0014.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
After 3 coats of paint and 2 coats or clear(still in the process of drying)<br />
<img src="http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af75/vastang07/101_0017.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<img src="http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af75/vastang07/101_0018.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
I'll post finished pics in the morning. Still need to wet sand w/ 2000</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/">2005+</category>
			<dc:creator>vastang757</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144099-new-project.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>What would you do with 10k</title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144098-what-would-you-do-10k.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:28:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Found a 2009 Bullit 3k miles fully loaded for 24g's.. It a hell of a price I think. If you guys had a GT and had 10k to play around with. WHAT would you do... I know this has been asked before, but just wanted to ask anyways. Lets say I had a Bullit]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Found a 2009 Bullit 3k miles fully loaded for 24g's.. It a hell of a price I think. If you guys had a GT and had 10k to play around with. WHAT would you do... I know this has been asked before, but just wanted to ask anyways. Lets say I had a Bullit</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/">2005+</category>
			<dc:creator>06dkkiser</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144098-what-would-you-do-10k.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>how to tell stock or aftermarket valve springs</title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144096-how-tell-stock-aftermarket-valve-springs.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:46:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I need to figure out if I really got what I paid for on my first build...the invoice says nothing about springs but it also says nothing about the porting and I saw it myself while the heads were off... they said I got heavier ones but I need to know because we are thinking about stage 2 blower cams while we are doing the phasers.. any one know what to look for ???</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I need to figure out if I really got what I paid for on my first build...the invoice says nothing about springs but it also says nothing about the porting and I saw it myself while the heads were off... they said I got heavier ones but I need to know because we are thinking about stage 2 blower cams while we are doing the phasers.. any one know what to look for ???</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/">2005+</category>
			<dc:creator>2006greyGT</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144096-how-tell-stock-aftermarket-valve-springs.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Sneak Peak @ AIRAID Intake System For 2010 Mustang GT</title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144090-sneak-peak-airaid-intake-system-2010-mustang-gt.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:29:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[*Sneak Peak! This system will be released and ready to ship late next week!*

Image: http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll307/AIRAIDFilterCompany/450-238-LG-2-1.jpg 

*AIRAID Intake For 2010 4.6L Ford Mustang GT Features :*

* *Computer Designed Pleat Depth and Count* : Assures Maximum Air Flow and filtration. All Intakes include an AIRAID Premium Filter.

* *Cross-Linked High Density Polyethylene Intake Tube* : CNC Designed for Correct Mass Air Flow and Fuel Ratio.

* *Large One-Piece Rotational-Molded Cold Air Dam *: Keeps Heat Away From Intake

* *Keep or Delete Sound Resonator*

* *Stainless Steel Hardware and Couplers*

* *All AIRAID Intake Systems are* : Made in the U.S.A

* All AIRAID Filters Include our :  Lifetime "No Hassle" Warranty

* ADD a Real *15 Horsepower *and *18 ft/lbs of Torque *on Mustang's engineering-quality Dynamometer!

* AIRAID Intake Part # 450-238 fit's 2010 Ford 4.6L Mustang GT.

Image: http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll307/AIRAIDFilterCompany/450-238-Installed-1.jpg ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><b>Sneak Peak! This system will be released and ready to ship late next week!</b><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll307/AIRAIDFilterCompany/450-238-LG-2-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<b>AIRAID Intake For 2010 4.6L Ford Mustang GT Features :</b><br />
<br />
* <b>Computer Designed Pleat Depth and Count</b> : <font color="Red">Assures Maximum Air Flow and filtration. All Intakes include an AIRAID Premium Filter.</font><br />
<br />
* <b>Cross-Linked High Density Polyethylene Intake Tube</b> : <font color="Red">CNC Designed for Correct Mass Air Flow and Fuel Ratio.</font><br />
<br />
* <b>Large One-Piece Rotational-Molded Cold Air Dam </b>: <font color="Red">Keeps Heat Away From Intake</font><br />
<br />
* <b>Keep or Delete Sound Resonator</b><br />
<br />
* <b>Stainless Steel Hardware and Couplers</b><br />
<br />
* <b>All AIRAID Intake Systems are</b> : <font color="red">Made in the U.S.A</font><br />
<br />
* All AIRAID Filters Include our : <font color="red"> Lifetime &quot;No Hassle&quot; Warranty</font><br />
<br />
* ADD a Real <b><font color="Red">15 Horsepower </font></b><font color="Red">and <b>18 ft/lbs of Torque </b></font>on Mustang's engineering-quality Dynamometer!<br />
<br />
* AIRAID Intake Part # 450-238 fit's 2010 Ford 4.6L Mustang GT.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll307/AIRAIDFilterCompany/450-238-Installed-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/">2005+</category>
			<dc:creator>David@AIRAID</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144090-sneak-peak-airaid-intake-system-2010-mustang-gt.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Bilstein's or X3 tuner]]></title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144088-bilsteins-x3-tuner.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:03:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Which one should I get?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Which one should I get?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/">2005+</category>
			<dc:creator>IHVOCD</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144088-bilsteins-x3-tuner.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Cheapest place to order Nitto tires?</title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144086-cheapest-place-order-nitto-tires.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:48:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I want to order the NT555R 305's for the rears...where is the cheapest place to order from?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I want to order the NT555R 305's for the rears...where is the cheapest place to order from?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/">2005+</category>
			<dc:creator>Mickey</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144086-cheapest-place-order-nitto-tires.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Should I Swap my Cams? Little Update as well..</title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144079-should-i-swap-my-cams-little-update-well.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:06:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So as you guys know, I was previously planning on ordering a shortblock due to the fact that my car is my DD and the amount down time is critical for me. Sooo, I thought about it and decided to change things up. I am buying another motorcycle, sold my recent one 8 months ago. Planning on making the purchase in Jan, and this will allow me to have more down time on the car. With that, I plan on ordering a 298ci rotating assembly and having a machine shop do the work. So that is the update on the build...still doing:

-298ci motor
-Livernois stage II heads (already ordered)
-GT500 oil pump and billet gears
-Saleen 14" Brakes (ordering next week)
-Spydershaft (ordering next week)
-Bronze guides
-Saleen Extreme dual gauge pod (ordered)
-60# injectors (ordered)
-7" custom touchscreen with front and rear cameras and custom goodies (ordered)

Now here is my question for the thread. Since I will obviously be upping the boost with the forged internals...should I swap to the SPR stage II blower grind cams? Will they make more power than my current n/a cams when I am pushing 12psi or so? I don't plan on ever pushing past 15psi with this car. What do you guys think?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So as you guys know, I was previously planning on ordering a shortblock due to the fact that my car is my DD and the amount down time is critical for me. Sooo, I thought about it and decided to change things up. I am buying another motorcycle, sold my recent one 8 months ago. Planning on making the purchase in Jan, and this will allow me to have more down time on the car. With that, I plan on ordering a 298ci rotating assembly and having a machine shop do the work. So that is the update on the build...still doing:<br />
<br />
-298ci motor<br />
-Livernois stage II heads (already ordered)<br />
-GT500 oil pump and billet gears<br />
-Saleen 14&quot; Brakes (ordering next week)<br />
-Spydershaft (ordering next week)<br />
-Bronze guides<br />
-Saleen Extreme dual gauge pod (ordered)<br />
-60# injectors (ordered)<br />
-7&quot; custom touchscreen with front and rear cameras and custom goodies (ordered)<br />
<br />
Now here is my question for the thread. Since I will obviously be upping the boost with the forged internals...should I swap to the SPR stage II blower grind cams? Will they make more power than my current n/a cams when I am pushing 12psi or so? I don't plan on ever pushing past 15psi with this car. What do you guys think?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/">2005+</category>
			<dc:creator>Mickey</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144079-should-i-swap-my-cams-little-update-well.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>LA Preview: More Powerful Engines Expected When 2011 Ford Mustang Models Debut in LA</title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144056-la-preview-more-powerful-engines-expected-when-2011-ford-mustang-models-debut-la.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:22:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Image: http://www.autoguide.com/gallery/d/58507-4/10Mustang_01.jpg 

Rather than the more traditional venue of Detroit, the Ford Motor Company will use the LA Auto Show to debut its new lineup of 2011 Mustang models. Just last year the car was significantly revised with a modernized exterior and a significantly improved interior that is now well beyond what the competition is offering. There's only one problem, with just mild updates to the engine, both the V6 and V8 are lagging well behind in the horsepower war.

Ford is expected to rectify the situation with the 2011 models, with reports indicating that a new V6 could offer up as much as 300-hp, while a new V8 could deliver 400-hp – with a displacement of 5.0-liters, no less! Expect news of six-speed transmissions as well. The other rumor is that the GT500 will get an aluminum block, helping it shed pounds and improve the car's overall balance.

Ford won't confirm or deny these reports but Ford's global product boss Derrick Kuzak did tell the folks at Autoblog that all questions would be answered at the LA Auto Show in December. Also, when asked about the aluminum-block GT500, Kuzak said, "That's a good thought."

The engine updates are much needed for the Mustang to put it back on top. The car has suffered significantly in sales in 2009, being beaten out by the Camaro for three straight months. While the Mustang is quite capable, even with the less powerful engine, horsepower numbers sell cars. And if the Mustang can offer everything it has now, plus more power and (presumably with a six-speed transmission), better fuel economy, then there's no reason to buy anything else.

AutoGuide's live coverage of the LA Auto Show starts December 2nd.

More: *LA Preview: More Powerful Engines Expected When 2011 Ford Mustang Models Debut in Los Angeles (http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2009/11/la-preview-more-powerful-engines-expected-when-2011-ford-mustang-models-debut-in-los-angeles.html)* on AutoGuide.com]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><div align="center"><img src="http://www.autoguide.com/gallery/d/58507-4/10Mustang_01.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div><br />
Rather than the more traditional venue of Detroit, the Ford Motor Company will use the LA Auto Show to debut its new lineup of 2011 Mustang models. Just last year the car was significantly revised with a modernized exterior and a significantly improved interior that is now well beyond what the competition is offering. There's only one problem, with just mild updates to the engine, both the V6 and V8 are lagging well behind in the horsepower war.<br />
<br />
Ford is expected to rectify the situation with the 2011 models, with reports indicating that a new V6 could offer up as much as 300-hp, while a new V8 could deliver 400-hp – with a displacement of 5.0-liters, no less! Expect news of six-speed transmissions as well. The other rumor is that the GT500 will get an aluminum block, helping it shed pounds and improve the car's overall balance.<br />
<br />
Ford won't confirm or deny these reports but Ford's global product boss Derrick Kuzak did tell the folks at Autoblog that all questions would be answered at the LA Auto Show in December. Also, when asked about the aluminum-block GT500, Kuzak said, &quot;That's a good thought.&quot;<br />
<br />
The engine updates are much needed for the Mustang to put it back on top. The car has suffered significantly in sales in 2009, being beaten out by the Camaro for three straight months. While the Mustang is quite capable, even with the less powerful engine, horsepower numbers sell cars. And if the Mustang can offer everything it has now, plus more power and (presumably with a six-speed transmission), better fuel economy, then there's no reason to buy anything else.<br />
<br />
AutoGuide's live coverage of the LA Auto Show starts December 2nd.<br />
<br />
More: <b><a href="http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2009/11/la-preview-more-powerful-engines-expected-when-2011-ford-mustang-models-debut-in-los-angeles.html" target="_blank">LA Preview: More Powerful Engines Expected When 2011 Ford Mustang Models Debut in Los Angeles</a></b> on AutoGuide.com</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/">2005+</category>
			<dc:creator>Administrator</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144056-la-preview-more-powerful-engines-expected-when-2011-ford-mustang-models-debut-la.html</guid>
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			<title>Window problem...</title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144055-window-problem.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:06:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Helllo! I got a problem with my driver's side window... When it goes down, it makes a dropping sound and it ends up going too far down that I can't even see it anymore as opposed to the passenger side. Then when I go to bring it back up it won't on the first try but it does on the second. I tried searching posts for this problem but I only found someone who had a problem with the opposite (going too far up). Anyone ever have this problem? Is there a quick fix to it? Thanks :)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Helllo! I got a problem with my driver's side window... When it goes down, it makes a dropping sound and it ends up going too far down that I can't even see it anymore as opposed to the passenger side. Then when I go to bring it back up it won't on the first try but it does on the second. I tried searching posts for this problem but I only found someone who had a problem with the opposite (going too far up). Anyone ever have this problem? Is there a quick fix to it? Thanks :)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/">2005+</category>
			<dc:creator>luvmyGT</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144055-window-problem.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Just bought my first v8 now i need some advice!</title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144042-just-bought-my-first-v8-now-i-need-some-advice.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 07:55:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello everyone, i just recently bought my V8 mustang. Its a 2009 gt and i have already caught the mod bug. I have been reading post on this site for about a month now, and i have to say its really impressive at how slick some members are on these cars. So after doing some reading and checking out some mags like mm&ff, this is what im thinking of doin. Please any advice will be awsome.

1. The roush R2300 kit from americanmuscle.com it  Comes with a 2.3L TVS® supercharger with black finish, upper and lower intake manifolds, an intercooler, a low temp radiator, the ROUSH® cold air intake system, a dual 60mm electronic throttle body, and a unique fuel rail with 52 lb/hr fuel injectors.

2.a set of comp cams stage 2 nsr
3. long tube headers and x pipe.
4. 4:10 gears and short throw shifter

how will this combination hold up? will it make good reliable power? I wanna be able to drive it on the interstate and not have problems.It says that it comes without PCM calibration. What does this mean? Do i have to take it to a tuner? if so, were is a good place close to east tennessee? I also thought about topping it off with a shot of spray. If I do this how big could i go? should i just not go for that? Will the bottom end even hold up to this? Alot of you can tell me exactly what this will do and how it will work LOL.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello everyone, i just recently bought my V8 mustang. Its a 2009 gt and i have already caught the mod bug. I have been reading post on this site for about a month now, and i have to say its really impressive at how slick some members are on these cars. So after doing some reading and checking out some mags like mm&amp;ff, this is what im thinking of doin. Please any advice will be awsome.<br />
<br />
1. The roush R2300 kit from americanmuscle.com it  Comes with a 2.3L TVS® supercharger with black finish, upper and lower intake manifolds, an intercooler, a low temp radiator, the ROUSH® cold air intake system, a dual 60mm electronic throttle body, and a unique fuel rail with 52 lb/hr fuel injectors.<br />
<br />
2.a set of comp cams stage 2 nsr<br />
3. long tube headers and x pipe.<br />
4. 4:10 gears and short throw shifter<br />
<br />
how will this combination hold up? will it make good reliable power? I wanna be able to drive it on the interstate and not have problems.It says that it comes without PCM calibration. What does this mean? Do i have to take it to a tuner? if so, were is a good place close to east tennessee? I also thought about topping it off with a shot of spray. If I do this how big could i go? should i just not go for that? Will the bottom end even hold up to this? Alot of you can tell me exactly what this will do and how it will work LOL.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/">2005+</category>
			<dc:creator>09ponycar</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144042-just-bought-my-first-v8-now-i-need-some-advice.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Clutch Adjustment?</title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144030-clutch-adjustment.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:22:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a 2007 Mustang GT.  It started to get pretty difficult to put the car into gear and shift through the gears.  Then, tonight on the way home from work I noticed that I had the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and the car was in first gear, but the car was still rolling forward, slowly.  It seems like the clutch is not fully engaging even though the pedal is being pressed fully to the floor.  Do the new Mustangs, 05-09, have an adjustment cable that will cure the issue that I have or is it a slave cylinder or a synchro going bad? I really need to get this fixed fast, I have to get underway again soon and I would like it to be taken care of before I go so that it is all good to go when I get home!Any help is greatly appreciated!</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 2007 Mustang GT.  It started to get pretty difficult to put the car into gear and shift through the gears.  Then, tonight on the way home from work I noticed that I had the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and the car was in first gear, but the car was still rolling forward, slowly.  It seems like the clutch is not fully engaging even though the pedal is being pressed fully to the floor.  Do the new Mustangs, 05-09, have an adjustment cable that will cure the issue that I have or is it a slave cylinder or a synchro going bad? I really need to get this fixed fast, I have to get underway again soon and I would like it to be taken care of before I go so that it is all good to go when I get home!Any help is greatly appreciated!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/">2005+</category>
			<dc:creator>Crazy1Too</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144030-clutch-adjustment.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>squeeking noise?</title>
			<link>http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144029-squeeking-noise.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:09:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So I've been driving my car like normal and all of a sudden it started making some squeeking noise either in the back or middle. my friends think it might be either something with the tranny or torque converter, but it's only got 26,000 miles and i'd hope they would last longer. I've had the car since new and know how i've treated her. any other suggestions on what to check before i have to get the whole transmission tore apart since it's an automatic:mad:? anyone else have this problem? i'm just pissed off because i just want to enjoy it. thanks]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So I've been driving my car like normal and all of a sudden it started making some squeeking noise either in the back or middle. my friends think it might be either something with the tranny or torque converter, but it's only got 26,000 miles and i'd hope they would last longer. I've had the car since new and know how i've treated her. any other suggestions on what to check before i have to get the whole transmission tore apart since it's an automatic:mad:? anyone else have this problem? i'm just pissed off because i just want to enjoy it. thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/">2005+</category>
			<dc:creator>Iceman24</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/144029-squeeking-noise.html</guid>
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