Just give me your car before you scratch it up. That will fix the problem.
I'm no expert but I never wash the ENTIRE car before rinsing the soap off. My steps are this:
1) Rinse the entire car off
2) Rinse top of car and windshield. Wash with thick microfiber wash mit
You don't want to use a Microfiber mitt for washing. They hold onto dirt particles which will causes scratches and swirls.
3) Rinse soap off top of car and windshield
I then repeat steps 2 and 3 for the hood, top of trunk, top of fender, top of doors, top of rear quarter panels, and windows. I don't like to leave soap on the car very long at all. After I get the top of the car done I switch to another wash mit that I use for the lower half of the car. I then repeat the wash and rinse process on the bottom half of the panels. Then I switch to ANOTHER wash mit for the wheels.
Basically, I don't want to wash the dirty dirty bottom of the car and then drag that dirt across the top of the car (creating small scratches). Then I rinse the whole thing off one final time and dry with a microfiber cloth.
*EDIT* Make sure the car is cool and in the shade.
Try this method instead.
- Pour a decent amount of soap into a 5 gal bucket
- Add water to get it to foam up. Fill nearly full.
You want to fill up the bucket with water FIRST then add the soap and mix it. That way you end up with a bucket full of soapy lubricated water. Not half water and half foam. Foam does nothing for cleaning and keeping particles from scratching.
- use a good fluffy car wash mitt and toss it in the bucket to wet up
- Spray the car down and wash as much dirt off as possible
- Wash front fenders, front bumper and hood. (less if its hot out, or super dirty)
- spray off all soap, and wet down the rest of the car
- wash the next section
- spray off entire car
The goal is to never let the water dry on the car. Use a high quality natural chamois. The synthetic chamois don't work near as well. Get it super wet before you start to dry the car. Don't screw around and get it done as fast as possible. I dry the windows first, then the rest of the car. (I also spray the car with reverse osmosis water before i dry it. It will leave the car spotless, even if i don't dry it, but its an expensive and complicated setup for most people.)
Theres a few things you need to invest in.
- Two 5 Gallon Buckets
- A GOOD soap (OTC would be Meguire's Gold Class)
- A Labswool or Sheepskin wash mitt
- An electric leaf blower
- A Microfiber Waffel Weave towel
You also need to use a method called the "2 Bucket Method"
This method calls for having your normal soapy bucket and a 2nd bucket filled with nothing but water. This provides you a place to "rinse" your wash mitt each time it leaves the car.
Think about it.... you just washed a dirty section of you car. Your wash mitt has all that dirt on it. Do you want to dip it into your nice clean soap? No... dip it in water, rinse it, THEN dip it back in your soapy bucket and go to the car.
Never... and I mean NEVER Scrub the car when washing. You are not scrubbing dirt off, your WASHING it off. You simply need to use the weight of your wash mitt. Also... never go over a section more than 2-3 passes with your wash mitt.
Refer to this as well:
How To Properly Wash and Dry a Car – Detailed Image
As for the water spots. If they are etched then you would need to do one or both of these steps:
Claybar will sometimes remove them. This also removes any wax so you must wax afterwards.
If the Claybar does not do it, the paint needs to be polished. This is done with a high quality buffer, pads, and automotive polish. You can NOT do this with a cheap buffer from Walmart/Autostore.
Look at the sticky at the top of this page... all of these questions can be anwsered there.