[Gerbig]

I am looking into doing this on my car because it has some major orange peel and other defects. How would I go about doing this?

[zinc02GT]

Stock paint?


Even then, I WOULD NOT do it without a PTG. Period. One slip up around an edge and that panel is toast.


This would easily be a weeks' job and in my opinion not worth the possible end result or the risk. Even I would not do an entire car unless it was an aftermarket paint job and I would charge out the ass for it. I've wetsanded entire panels before and let me tell you, it's nerve racking as hell because SO MUCH can go wrong so easily. I've been using a rotary for a few years and while I'm confident I could do it, I just personally wouldn't because of the extremely thin stock paint.

Oh, speaking of unless you use a rotary you're wasting your time. You'll never pull wetsanding marks out without some very special equipment on a DA that in my opinion defeats the purpose of wetsanding. Only a rotary will yield the results you want.

Don't do it.


If you weren't so far north of me I'd take a look at it, but you're a solid 2.5-3 hours from me.

[Zatrekaz]

Zinc is right on every account.

[Gerbig]

It's not a factory paint. It's obvious that the car has been repainted

[Gerbig]

Where you live Zinc?

[dannyboy281]

I would just compound it with some purple foam wool pads and a good compound like Menzerna Powergloss, M105 or Mothers Professional HD compound. I wouldnt attempt it without a paint depth gauge the HL II is about the most affordable one on the market. But still then I would try and avoid it on a factory finish or a cheap paint job because the clear coat could be laid on thinly even thinner than the factory finish, if it was a cheap paint job.

http://highlinemeter.com/

[zinc02GT]

Originally Posted by Gerbig Where you live Zinc?

Enterprise.

[sikedsyko]

+ To trying some really aggressive compound and pads before going anywhere near wet sanding.

I've wanted to try wet sanding on a small section of fucked up clear on my drivers side door. But I've looked into it and don't have the balls to be that aggressive with my paint.

[Gerbig]

Well I sucessfully wetsanded a bad spot in the clear with good results so thought I might give it a shot Lol

[dannyboy281]

well if you are going to attempt it use 2500 grit then follow it with 3000 grit and use the Meguiars unigrit sand paper. Watch this video man. I then would suggest you also pick up some lake country purple foam wool pads to use with M105 on the Makita, one because they run alot cooler than say a yellow or orange foam pad and two compounding with them is alot easier as well since the pad glides on the surface and isnt grabby as a foam compounding pad tends to be. Start up at 600 to 900 RPM make a few passes then peek it up to 1500 to 1800 RPM for a few more passes then work your way back down to 900 to 600 RPM. Starting with moderate pressure then ending with very light pressure to prevent holograms. Also keep in mind the video he speaks alot about the diminishing abrasives in older compounds Meguiars makes, M105 is a non diminishing compound so once you achieve the results you need stop compounding, but with M105 one really doesnt have a long work time before it starts to dust up on you.

Wetsanding part 2 of 5 - YouTube

Wetsanding part 2 of 5 - YouTube

This is the sanding kit he uses.

http://www.autodetailingsolutions.ne...nding-kit.html

[zinc02GT]

Just my .02 here, having owned a LC PFW pad, they don't even compare to 3M Superbuff III's. THE LC PFW's cake up real easy and instead of brushing the paint like a wool pad should, it just cakes the polish and causes severe dusting. The SBIII's can finish off like a white pad in the right hands, they are double sided, solid 1.5" of nap, and are non synthetic. They require an adapter but it's only like $6. Definitely worth the money on that. They last quite a few jobs as well.


When I was learning how to use a rotary I actually watched that video quite a few times myself. Great video.

[dannyboy281]

Zinc I actually have the a 3M Superbuff III 2 Plus 2 Wool pad with the adapter to use it with, its a great pad just like you stated. I used it on the red 2011 5.0 GT/CS I corrected earlier this year which as you know has a rock hard clear and laughed at my Yellow Uber pads. If you click on the link in my signature you will see if for sale there along with a few other detailing products.

I have yet to use the PFW pads for long periods yet, so far I havent experienced the caking up or dusting yet. I have used some 3.5" PFW pads on my fender and door with Scholl Concepts S17+ via my Flex PE 14-2 rotary and I didnt experience any issues with it and I started off at 600 t0 900 RPM peaked it up to 2100 RPM then worked it back down to 600 RPM. I do think it has to do with the compound make up of S17+ compared to other compounds like Menzerna Powergloss and M105. Since the Scholl line of polishes and compounds are are superior to Meguiars and Menzerna. Which is why I am going to replace my Meguiars and Menzerna polishes with Scholl Concepts I just have to import them from Elite Care Care in the U.K. They actually carry a kit that comes with S03 Gold, S17+ and S40 which is really all one need to correct virtually any finish. You should give them a go I have used S17+ and it corrects really fast, the ZPT is really not that necessary to follow since the correction time happens quickly with these compounds and polishes. You just spread it out for about 2 passes at a low RPM then peak it for about another 2 passes then finish it down for 2 to 3 passes and your done. Using light then moderate pressure then very light pressure in the end.

[Zatrekaz]

Originally Posted by Gerbig Well I sucessfully wetsanded a bad spot in the clear with good results so thought I might give it a shot Lol

Wetsanding a isolated spot on a flat section is COMPLETELY different than what you are wanting to undertake. Like Zinc said, the edges and corners are so easy to mess up.

Also, if your have a single piece of sand or grit in your sandpaper you will cause very deep scratches that will most likely not come out with buffing.

Trust us man, its not something you want to do without some training/experience and the proper tools. If you want to learn, do it on a whole scrap body panel that has some edges.