[04MidnightGT]

Tired of swirl marks? This is how I got rid of mine-

FIRST!!! I recommend you use microfibers towels only! Others can leave more scratches than they will remove.

1. Wash car (remove all dirt) See Note 1
2. Clay bar See Note 2
3. Ultimate compound (only on faded paint areas/paint defects, skip if N/A)
4. Polish See Note 3
5. Wax (let it dry) See Note 3 and 4
6. Remove wax See Note 3
7. Take pictures and post them on moddedmustangs.com

Note 1 - It really doesn't matter what car washing product you use, just make sure there is no dirt left on the paint and all suds are removed, take your time and don't miss anything!

Note 2 - Take your time!!! This step will probably take the longest out of this checklist, remember to glide the clay across the paint. Too much pressure can damage the paint and not enough pressure will do nothing.

Note 3 - If available use a DA (dual action) orbital buffer machine, with a microfiber bonnet. This will always provide better application than using your hand, plus it will be much faster.

Note 4 - A synthetic wax (not carnuaba) will last longer, but not give the warm look of natural carnuaba waxes. The less I have to wax my car the better.

All the products used in my list are Meguiar's and can normally be found at your local automotive store.

Smooth Surface® Clay Kit
Ultimate Compound
Ultimate Polish
Gold Class™ Liquid Wax



If you care to see what my car looks like after this process just take a look at my signature. The picture was not digitally enhanced whatsoever, only things used were a good camera and a clean car.

[Zatrekaz]

You are on the right track, but there is some mis-information here:

Originally Posted by 04MidnightGT Tired of swirl marks? This is how I got rid of mine- FIRST!!! I recommend you use microfibers towels only! Others can leave more scratches than they will remove. Wash car (remove all dirt) See Note 1 Clay bar See Note 2 Ultimate compound (only on faded paint areas/paint defects, skip if N/A) Polish See Note 3 Wax (let it dry) See Note 3 and 4 Remove wax See Note 3 Take pictures and post them on moddedmustangs.com Note 1 - It really doesn't matter what car washing product you use, just make sure there is no dirt left on the paint and all suds are removed, take your time and don't miss anything! Lol... it DOES matter what car soap you use. You can't just buy a generic car soap off the shelf and expect it to protect from swirls. The MAIN time you add swirls to a car is washing. You need a good well lubricated soap that will not only protect the finish, but be safe on you wax/sealant. You also did not mention about a wash tool, two bucket method, grit guards, ect. Note 2 - Take your time!!! This step will probably take the longest out of this checklist, remember to glide the clay across the paint. Too much pressure can damage the paint and not enough pressure will do nothing. Note 3 - If available use a DA (dual action) orbital buffer machine, with a microfiber bonnet. This will always provide better application than using your hand, plus it will be much faster. MF Bonnets will not give you the cutting and correction power your need. Foam based pads are the industry standard. Note 4 - A synthetic wax (not carnuaba) will last longer, but not give the warm look of natural carnuaba waxes. The less I have to wax my car the better. All the products used in my list are Meguiar's and can normally be found at your local automotive store. Smooth Surface® Clay Kit Ultimate Compound Ultimate Polish Gold Class™ Liquid Wax If you care to see what my car looks like after this process just take a look at my signature. The picture was not digitally enhanced whatsoever, only things used were a good camera and a clean car.

Your car is black. Have you ever looked at the paint under a strong halogen light? I bet you, there are still swirls. Your on the right track, but theres a LOT more to detailing than just this.

Also, you mention you like synthetic waxes (aka Sealants). The wax you listed is not a synthetic. That is a liquid based Nuba.

[Alente]

Yea, NEVER use the closest soap you can find.
Automotive soaps the best, any1 using house hold soaps will ruin there paint.
I find the 20$ crap at autozone I use works well(just ran out so cant remember name)
If you need a quick detail check out some of the prowler cleaner/wax compount. Not for a full clean but good right before a show.

[Zatrekaz]

Originally Posted by Alente Yea, NEVER use the closest soap you can find. Automotive soaps the best, any1 using house hold soaps will ruin there paint. I find the 20$ crap at autozone I use works well(just ran out so cant remember name) If you need a quick detail check out some of the prowler cleaner/wax compount. Not for a full clean but good right before a show.

I was not even talking about house hold soaps. Half of automotive soaps are also bad. The ONLY OTC soap most reccomend is Meguiar's Gold Class.

Just because its an automotive soap does not mean its good.

Also, OP... you said only use the compound on fades areas and defects. If this is the first time a car has ever been corrected, then you need to compound the whole car.

[dannyboy281]

OTC soap that are good are Mothers Wash and Wax and Meguiars Gold Class and NTX, Oh and OP I agree with Justin on this 100% he hit it dead on the head But nice work man do you have a link on how it came out beside the sig pic.

[Zatrekaz]

Originally Posted by dannyboy281 OTC soap that are good are Mothers Wash and Wax and Meguiars Gold Class and NTX, Oh and OP I agree with Justin on this 100% he hit it dead on the head But nice work man do you have a link on how it came out beside the sig pic.

Never tried NXT. I personally did not car for the Mother's however. Seemed to need a ton of soap to produce decent suds/lubricity compared to other soaps. Guess I am just a Glossworkz junkie...

[NoColoradoGT]

I'm a Meg's Goldclass and CG Glossworkz junkie too, and I agree that Mother's Wash and Wax did require quite a bit of product for the right amount of lubricity, however, once it was there though it was a nice product!

And Justin did hit all of this on the head perfectly. Question though, what D/A are you using that accepts microfiber bonnets?

Also, Microfibers can cut when they're correctly designed - I love my Meguiar's D/A Microfiber system.

[Alente]

Meguiars thats wat it was.
I love car detailing lol

[sikedsyko]

Personally as a soap, I love Sonax Gloss Shampoo. It doesn't produce a ton of suds, but is incredibly lubricating and leaves a very "finished" look to it. For a sudsy shampoo, I go to Chemical guys Maxi Suds.

[Zatrekaz]

Originally Posted by NoColoradoGT I'm a Meg's Goldclass and CG Glossworkz junkie too, and I agree that Mother's Wash and Wax did require quite a bit of product for the right amount of lubricity, however, once it was there though it was a nice product! And Justin did hit all of this on the head perfectly. Question though, what D/A are you using that accepts microfiber bonnets? Also, Microfibers can cut when they're correctly designed - I love my Meguiar's D/A Microfiber system.

Any DA can take a MF bonnet with the right tools. However, most DAs do not work well with them.

Yes, MF can cut like the Meg's pads, but they are not a bonnet.

[dannyboy281]

Originally Posted by Zatrekaz Never tried NXT. I personally did not car for the Mother's however. Seemed to need a ton of soap to produce decent suds/lubricity compared to other soaps. Guess I am just a Glossworkz junkie...

Originally Posted by NoColoradoGT I'm a Meg's Goldclass and CG Glossworkz junkie too, and I agree that Mother's Wash and Wax did require quite a bit of product for the right amount of lubricity, however, once it was there though it was a nice product! And Justin did hit all of this on the head perfectly. Question though, what D/A are you using that accepts microfiber bonnets? Also, Microfibers can cut when they're correctly designed - I love my Meguiar's D/A Microfiber system.

Whenever I use Mothers I use on my customer vehicles I use 1 oz per Gallon as stated some time I even throw in an extra ounce and a half so if I am doing a 3 gallon wash I use 4 1/2 oz and the lubricity gets better and is still maintenance wash safe

[crackpotfox]

One tutorial on this forum says to use a leafblower to remove water, as long as you're well waxed

[sikedsyko]

This method works extremely well. Personally I use a 5hp shop vac. But it's the same concept

[dannyboy281]

Metro Masterblaster FTW!

[sikedsyko]

Originally Posted by dannyboy281 Metro Masterblaster FTW!

lol I couldn't justify $300 on a blower, when I can get a slightly less powerful one that's also a vacuum, for under 1/3 that price.

[dannyboy281]

Originally Posted by sikedsyko lol I couldn't justify $300 on a blower, when I can get a slightly less powerful one that's also a vacuum, for under 1/3 that price.

It will also blow a 1/3 as good LOL the master blaster blows out at over 600mph once you try it you will never dry your car without it I got mine like $100 off because I bought it when Phil was having a big sale and got it for a great price He also has the Airforce blaster which is what the Masterblaster does when only one of the fans is on its like $175.

[NoColoradoGT]

$39 at Wal-Mart. Gets the job done!

[dannyboy281]

Originally Posted by NoColoradoGT $39 at Wal-Mart. Gets the job done!

I am telling you try it you will love it Jeff especially you should get one since you do several vehicles it will pay for itself quickly. You can dry a panel completely dry in seconds zero water drops because the fans blow out warm air

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