[NoColoradoGT]

I was just asked to do a cut and polish job on a fairly new paint job the other day, however today I spent some time in my garage organizing all of my detailing products and noticed that my Makita Rotary is not working (It's a 9227C). I bought this sucker used on Craigslist (started using it on test panels to learn how to properly use a rotary, and got to try it on one customer car) and it was good for the couple times I've been able to use it, but it just flat out won't turn on right now. I don't know what's wrong with it.

In any case, I think I already know the answer to my question, but:

The only other polisher I own is my Porter Cable. That thing is probably way too weak to remove 2000/3000 grit wet sanding marks, am I right? Also I'd imagine with even the proper backing plate on the PC and a Wool Foam pad, that would just haze the paint with most compounds, yes?

Recommendations?

[brokenweasel]

M105 is "rated" at taking out anything as deep as 1200 grit and most compounds I have used are "rated" at anything from 1500-2000. Depending on the paint you should be fine with the PC. It will take more time and a few more passes.

You have nothing to lose by giving it a shot, right?

[NoColoradoGT]

Except a customers trust....

Yeah, with the Makita I was working with a Wool Pad and M84.

You think even with the Foam Pad, M105, and 6,800 OPMS it should take it out?

I just have yet to attempt to remove wet sanding scratches with the PC yet (never really thought it would be powerful enough), and I don't want to order the wool pads and new backing plate for the PC unless you guys recommend I should.

[brokenweasel]

Originally Posted by NoColoradoGT Except a customers trust.... Yeah, with the Makita I was working with a Wool Pad and M84. You think even with the Foam Pad, M105, and 6,800 OPMS it should take it out? I just have yet to attempt to remove wet sanding scratches with the PC yet (never really thought it would be powerful enough), and I don't want to order the wool pads and new backing plate for the PC unless you guys recommend I should.

I'm saying the PC definitely won't make the car any worse, that's what I mean by nothing to lose.

I see what you're saying - if you get the car and you can't get the wetsanding marks out with the PC, then you'd have to have the customer come back to get them out with the correct tools. What kind of car is it? I guess that doesn't really matter since you said it is a recent paint job - how recent? I'm assuming you will seal/wax it afterwards if its not within a few weeks?

I'd think if the wetsanding is done correctly you can get it out with the PC, M105 or another aggressive compound, and a heavy cut foam pad. This would be an excellent chance to try out surbuf pads as well. I was under the impression that wool pads generally aren't recommended on DA's as well?

[NoColoradoGT]

Oh yeah, the PC is safe as can be. It's the training wheels bicycle of polishers but I love it! The work is on a 2005 Mustang GT. hahaha. The paint is exactly two weeks old, and has 2 coats of clear on it (not a ton to work with, but enough). The job is a ways away so that I can seal the paint afterwards without burning it.

I was just worried that even a strong foam cutting pad, may not have enough cutting power combined with the PC and a mid-abbrasive compound.
I may just pony up and buy some stuff on AG and then use it on my test panel at home in my garage.

[Zatrekaz]

M105 + Yellow Pad will take out 3,000 for sure. I know this for a fact, I did it to my car on the driver fender.

[NoColoradoGT]

Maybe I'll just do that. I can make a couple extra passes with 3,000 to ensure the orange peel is gone, and then I'll take that combo to it at 6,800, hit it with M205 to polish it out, and then glaze and seal it.

I'm freaking pissed that my Makita is broken though.

[brokenweasel]

Originally Posted by NoColoradoGT Maybe I'll just do that. I can make a couple extra passes with 3,000 to ensure the orange peel is gone, and then I'll take that combo to it at 6,800, hit it with M205 to polish it out, and then glaze and seal it. I'm freaking pissed that my Makita is broken though.

Sucks about the Makita. I have a PC7424XP and I think it does good work. I'd be surprised if you couldn't get out 3000 wetsanding with it. Make sure you're using pressure with M105.

My roommate takes delivery of a 2012 mazda3 tomorrow and my mustang is getting a hood, fender and bumper this coming week, so I have some polishing coming my way as well.
Noco, what kind of temps are you working in these days? Its below freezing today and tomorrow here in Ohio. I'm not looking forward to attempting to wash and wax my girlfriends car tomorrow, and polishing isn't going to be much fun either next weekend.

[dannyboy281]

Sorry to hear about your Makita 9227C,, but I can almost garantee that it is the carbon brushes I say buy a pair and replace them. You can get a pair on Ebay for like $10 or $15, if its not that it might be the electrical cord you can also find a replacement on ebay. Also you can easily get the sanding scratches out as long as you finish off with 2500 to 3000 grit I use Meguiars Unigrit papers since they are alo easier to remove defects and compound out scratches easiily. Use M105, Menzerna Powergloss, or Mother Professional Compound. Use them with Surbuf R pads they will give you the most cut on a D/A polisher and work amazing with M105. I have some for sale if you interested I have only use them once then I sold my PC, they have been wash and are stored in a clean detailing bag that I have my pads in.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruVUpab6AlY&feature=results_main&playnext=1&list=PLCF675273B18E4AC6

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruVUpab6AlY&feature=results_main&playnext=1&list=PLCF675273B18E4AC6

[sikedsyko]

Quick question for you guys who wetsand and use rotaries on customer cars. Do y'all carry any kind of liability insurance, or do you just bank on not making a mistake? I've been wanting to step into rotary and wetsanding, but honestly it scares me to do it on customer cars.