What to do with a blown Motor?

ModMustang97GT · March 20th, 2009, 04:54 PM

Well, I've been toying around with what to do since I spun one of my main bearing a few months ago. I would love to get something like the stroker 900 block from MMR. but I'm trying to decide if its worth it. I was toying with the idea of getting a different car for a while, but I don't think I will. I will definitely end up getting more suspension goodies. But I want to make some big numebers. But I figure now, its goign to cost me as much to get a 450 hp n/a stang, as it will to get me a turbo kit on a built block. I have to get a new short block either way. So its, full N/A goodies or turbo kit. I think the turbo kit would be best in the end. But the question is. Should I just get a MMR600 block or something like that. Or is it worth it to step up to the 900 block? What do you guys think?

SWEET2KSTANG · March 20th, 2009, 05:00 PM

how much power you want to make? 450 from a 2v n/a is next to impossible.

ModMustang97GT · March 20th, 2009, 05:17 PM

nah, you can do it with nicely ported heads, nice cam, stroked bottom end and a sheetmetal intake. I want to say I would be fine with 400 hp, but I just know I am going to want 500+. I would love to have something insane like 700 or something, but that would be almost totally useless. So I figure aiming around 500 is more realistic. I am looking more for the 40-150 mph range than the dig drag racing shit.

SWEET2KSTANG · March 20th, 2009, 05:19 PM

450 streetable 2v? ok

ModMustang97GT · March 20th, 2009, 05:26 PM

I don't know how streetable it would be. It would be pushing the streetable definition. I dont' really care about that though. As long as it doesn't pop my tires when I try to start moving from a stop light, i'm fine. I just can't decide what I want to do for my short block. Mainly, on wheather the MMR600 would be enough, or if I should jump to the 800 or 900. And then of course, there is the debate about the aluminum block. I would love the weight savings, but not sure its worth the extra money.

SWEET2KSTANG · March 20th, 2009, 05:35 PM

personally, i dont see the 60-75lb difference worth it in a street machine. i have seen set ups to get close to 400rwhp mark on a hard street set up, nothing more without a race orientated set up. this is of course based on ported pi heads. i personally would just reuse you block and crank, buy rods and pistons and set it up the way you want it.

ModMustang97GT · March 20th, 2009, 05:48 PM

I was thinking about that. But my shop and MMR said it would be a better Idea to get a new block and shit. Something about the journals being bad now. I don't know, I should just tear my block apart and get it all checked out and see what shape its in I guess. I might get lucky and only need new pistons or something. Who knows. I am just planning for the worst.

SWEET2KSTANG · March 20th, 2009, 05:51 PM

a machine shop would just line hone it if its bad. mmr and shm says the same thing. shm was telling another member to tear their teksid block back down because he didnt get it lined honed and it was a must anytime it was tore apart. you have to watch out for the sales people, especially if they are relly pushing their sales.

ModMustang97GT · March 20th, 2009, 06:27 PM

Thats true. I'm sure nothing worse happened to the block. I could probably get away with getting it honed and hot bathed and then just rebuild the stupid thing with new pistons and be fine.

How much power would I lose going from 9:1 to 8.5:1 on our cars while its still n/a. I'm thinking I will go FI in the next couple years, but it will stay n/a until then. I'm curious if I'm goign to be pissed as long as its 8.5. I know lots of commuter cars run 8.5:1 and stuff stock.

winterftbl · March 21st, 2009, 11:06 PM

I would go with a 900. not the 600 just because its not that much more expensive. And then you dont have to worry about anything after that.

casper gt · March 21st, 2009, 11:29 PM

you'll be LUCKY to break 300hp if your n/a 8.5 to 1.

zack065 · March 23rd, 2009, 02:03 PM

maybe turbo?
its all your choice.
sucks about the motor

ModMustang97GT · March 23rd, 2009, 05:02 PM

I do plan on going turbo. It will just be a little while between the time when I get the block and when I get the turbo kit. So I was curious if anyone remember the compression ratio to power conversion. There is a formula that you can use to find it. Anyways, I figure getting the 8.5:1 instead of 9:1 will be more beneficial in the long run.

banned · March 23rd, 2009, 06:59 PM

you could stroke it, but the deck height isn't specatular and you could bore it, but that extra 20 cubes will equate to nothing but a waste of money.

The answer: do forged internals and take all that money you were going to piss away on a worthless stroker or big bore (302 big bore that makes me laugh) and spend it on HEADS, cnc'd 4v heads to be specific.

ModMustang97GT · March 23rd, 2009, 07:05 PM

Well, I figure the benefit of the 4v heads vs. a nicely P&P'd 2v is negligable. I know they flow a ton better, but when it comes down to it. When I do go turbo, the difference in power will be a couple PSI away. Not too worried about it.

banned · March 23rd, 2009, 07:14 PM

the difference is extreme actually, and it directly impacts how much power you will be able to make on pump gas and how much boost you will have to push to hit your goal, meaning reliability. But really the best thing you could get is ported and cnc'ed 3v heads - they flow about 30 less cfm, but they are much more reliable then 4v heads

banned · March 23rd, 2009, 07:15 PM

stage 5 2v heads = 235 cfm stock 4v heads = 230 cfm stage 5 4v heads = 320 cfm thats 100-150hp at an equal boost level

Fluffy The Rhino · March 23rd, 2009, 11:25 PM

Is this your DD?

If so, you don't want a monster NA street car as your daily.

If you're going to go turbo, you'll want to build it for that.

ModMustang97GT · March 24th, 2009, 01:42 PM

Its not my DD currently. Although I am sure it will see alot of driving to and from work once its back on the road. My main issue with buying 3 or 4v heads, is i'm going to have to spend 3 grand to get the stupid things on there, plus the changes to the electrical system to support the things. And that is before I even get a turbo kit. Maybe down the road that would be the thing to do, but in the mean time. A set of ported 2v will work just fine. And once I get into squeezing the last bits of power out, i'll worry more about the heads.

1TITAN · March 24th, 2009, 04:01 PM

im buildin a motor right now, and you do what you want. if you wanted to do the aluminum block get a block out of a lincoln mark 8 change the pistons to
2v pistons and your ready for business, i was gonna do it myself but it was just timing how i got the motor ive got now....

the 70lb weight save in the nose of the car would let it handle like a champ and would definitly help in the get up and go department.

March 20th, 2009, 04:54 PM	#1
ModMustang97GT Hardcore Enthusiast 1997 Mustang GT Faster than an s4 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 1,598 iTrader: 0 reviews	What to do with a blown Motor? Well, I've been toying around with what to do since I spun one of my main bearing a few months ago. I would love to get something like the stroker 900 block from MMR. but I'm trying to decide if its worth it. I was toying with the idea of getting a different car for a while, but I don't think I will. I will definitely end up getting more suspension goodies. But I want to make some big numebers. But I figure now, its goign to cost me as much to get a 450 hp n/a stang, as it will to get me a turbo kit on a built block. I have to get a new short block either way. So its, full N/A goodies or turbo kit. I think the turbo kit would be best in the end. But the question is. Should I just get a MMR600 block or something like that. Or is it worth it to step up to the 900 block? What do you guys think? __________________ Aztec Gold 97GT. MM CC Plates, Panhard Bar, SFC's & Tower Brace Eibach Sway Bars H&R Race Springs/Bilstein Shocks MAC CAI, LT's, Catted H and Pro-Dumps KB Boost-a-Spark 04' PI Motor Author of The Official Suspension Guide

March 20th, 2009, 05:00 PM	#2
SWEET2KSTANG mm's nitrous mod 2000 mustang gt 11.79@115.83 (old set up) Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 12,430 iTrader: 8 reviews	how much power you want to make? 450 from a 2v n/a is next to impossible. __________________ project warhorse under construction being built by MP2 Performance

March 20th, 2009, 05:17 PM	#3
ModMustang97GT Hardcore Enthusiast 1997 Mustang GT Faster than an s4 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 1,598 iTrader: 0 reviews	nah, you can do it with nicely ported heads, nice cam, stroked bottom end and a sheetmetal intake. I want to say I would be fine with 400 hp, but I just know I am going to want 500+. I would love to have something insane like 700 or something, but that would be almost totally useless. So I figure aiming around 500 is more realistic. I am looking more for the 40-150 mph range than the dig drag racing shit. __________________ Aztec Gold 97GT. MM CC Plates, Panhard Bar, SFC's & Tower Brace Eibach Sway Bars H&R Race Springs/Bilstein Shocks MAC CAI, LT's, Catted H and Pro-Dumps KB Boost-a-Spark 04' PI Motor Author of The Official Suspension Guide

March 20th, 2009, 05:19 PM	#4
SWEET2KSTANG mm's nitrous mod 2000 mustang gt 11.79@115.83 (old set up) Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 12,430 iTrader: 8 reviews	450 streetable 2v? ok __________________ project warhorse under construction being built by MP2 Performance

March 20th, 2009, 05:26 PM	#5
ModMustang97GT Hardcore Enthusiast 1997 Mustang GT Faster than an s4 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 1,598 iTrader: 0 reviews	I don't know how streetable it would be. It would be pushing the streetable definition. I dont' really care about that though. As long as it doesn't pop my tires when I try to start moving from a stop light, i'm fine. I just can't decide what I want to do for my short block. Mainly, on wheather the MMR600 would be enough, or if I should jump to the 800 or 900. And then of course, there is the debate about the aluminum block. I would love the weight savings, but not sure its worth the extra money. __________________ Aztec Gold 97GT. MM CC Plates, Panhard Bar, SFC's & Tower Brace Eibach Sway Bars H&R Race Springs/Bilstein Shocks MAC CAI, LT's, Catted H and Pro-Dumps KB Boost-a-Spark 04' PI Motor Author of The Official Suspension Guide

March 20th, 2009, 05:35 PM	#6
SWEET2KSTANG mm's nitrous mod 2000 mustang gt 11.79@115.83 (old set up) Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 12,430 iTrader: 8 reviews	personally, i dont see the 60-75lb difference worth it in a street machine. i have seen set ups to get close to 400rwhp mark on a hard street set up, nothing more without a race orientated set up. this is of course based on ported pi heads. i personally would just reuse you block and crank, buy rods and pistons and set it up the way you want it. __________________ project warhorse under construction being built by MP2 Performance

March 20th, 2009, 05:48 PM	#7
ModMustang97GT Hardcore Enthusiast 1997 Mustang GT Faster than an s4 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 1,598 iTrader: 0 reviews	I was thinking about that. But my shop and MMR said it would be a better Idea to get a new block and shit. Something about the journals being bad now. I don't know, I should just tear my block apart and get it all checked out and see what shape its in I guess. I might get lucky and only need new pistons or something. Who knows. I am just planning for the worst. __________________ Aztec Gold 97GT. MM CC Plates, Panhard Bar, SFC's & Tower Brace Eibach Sway Bars H&R Race Springs/Bilstein Shocks MAC CAI, LT's, Catted H and Pro-Dumps KB Boost-a-Spark 04' PI Motor Author of The Official Suspension Guide

March 20th, 2009, 05:51 PM	#8
SWEET2KSTANG mm's nitrous mod 2000 mustang gt 11.79@115.83 (old set up) Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 12,430 iTrader: 8 reviews	a machine shop would just line hone it if its bad. mmr and shm says the same thing. shm was telling another member to tear their teksid block back down because he didnt get it lined honed and it was a must anytime it was tore apart. you have to watch out for the sales people, especially if they are relly pushing their sales. __________________ project warhorse under construction being built by MP2 Performance

March 20th, 2009, 06:27 PM	#9
ModMustang97GT Hardcore Enthusiast 1997 Mustang GT Faster than an s4 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 1,598 iTrader: 0 reviews	Thats true. I'm sure nothing worse happened to the block. I could probably get away with getting it honed and hot bathed and then just rebuild the stupid thing with new pistons and be fine. How much power would I lose going from 9:1 to 8.5:1 on our cars while its still n/a. I'm thinking I will go FI in the next couple years, but it will stay n/a until then. I'm curious if I'm goign to be pissed as long as its 8.5. I know lots of commuter cars run 8.5:1 and stuff stock. __________________ Aztec Gold 97GT. MM CC Plates, Panhard Bar, SFC's & Tower Brace Eibach Sway Bars H&R Race Springs/Bilstein Shocks MAC CAI, LT's, Catted H and Pro-Dumps KB Boost-a-Spark 04' PI Motor Author of The Official Suspension Guide

March 21st, 2009, 11:06 PM	#10
winterftbl Regular 1999 mustang gt Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: orange county Posts: 238 iTrader: 0 reviews	I would go with a 900. not the 600 just because its not that much more expensive. And then you dont have to worry about anything after that.

March 21st, 2009, 11:29 PM	#11
casper gt Moderator 2010 mustang gt auto Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: creighton pa Posts: 7,477 iTrader: 3 reviews	you'll be LUCKY to break 300hp if your n/a 8.5 to 1. __________________ MM BRACKET RACING CREW CO-FOUNDER BAMA Performance Drag Team Founder 2010 GT auto

March 23rd, 2009, 02:03 PM	#12
zack065 Regular Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 461 iTrader: 0 reviews	maybe turbo? its all your choice. sucks about the motor

March 23rd, 2009, 05:02 PM	#13
ModMustang97GT Hardcore Enthusiast 1997 Mustang GT Faster than an s4 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 1,598 iTrader: 0 reviews	I do plan on going turbo. It will just be a little while between the time when I get the block and when I get the turbo kit. So I was curious if anyone remember the compression ratio to power conversion. There is a formula that you can use to find it. Anyways, I figure getting the 8.5:1 instead of 9:1 will be more beneficial in the long run. __________________ Aztec Gold 97GT. MM CC Plates, Panhard Bar, SFC's & Tower Brace Eibach Sway Bars H&R Race Springs/Bilstein Shocks MAC CAI, LT's, Catted H and Pro-Dumps KB Boost-a-Spark 04' PI Motor Author of The Official Suspension Guide

March 23rd, 2009, 06:59 PM	#14
banned Regular Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 462 iTrader: 0 reviews	you could stroke it, but the deck height isn't specatular and you could bore it, but that extra 20 cubes will equate to nothing but a waste of money. The answer: do forged internals and take all that money you were going to piss away on a worthless stroker or big bore (302 big bore that makes me laugh) and spend it on HEADS, cnc'd 4v heads to be specific. __________________ Considering selling my car to fund my race car: take a look and tell me what you think. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ml#post1041280

March 23rd, 2009, 07:05 PM	#15
ModMustang97GT Hardcore Enthusiast 1997 Mustang GT Faster than an s4 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 1,598 iTrader: 0 reviews	Well, I figure the benefit of the 4v heads vs. a nicely P&P'd 2v is negligable. I know they flow a ton better, but when it comes down to it. When I do go turbo, the difference in power will be a couple PSI away. Not too worried about it. __________________ Aztec Gold 97GT. MM CC Plates, Panhard Bar, SFC's & Tower Brace Eibach Sway Bars H&R Race Springs/Bilstein Shocks MAC CAI, LT's, Catted H and Pro-Dumps KB Boost-a-Spark 04' PI Motor Author of The Official Suspension Guide

March 23rd, 2009, 07:14 PM	#16
banned Regular Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 462 iTrader: 0 reviews	the difference is extreme actually, and it directly impacts how much power you will be able to make on pump gas and how much boost you will have to push to hit your goal, meaning reliability. But really the best thing you could get is ported and cnc'ed 3v heads - they flow about 30 less cfm, but they are much more reliable then 4v heads __________________ Considering selling my car to fund my race car: take a look and tell me what you think. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ml#post1041280

March 23rd, 2009, 07:15 PM	#17
banned Regular Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 462 iTrader: 0 reviews	stage 5 2v heads = 235 cfm stock 4v heads = 230 cfm stage 5 4v heads = 320 cfm thats 100-150hp at an equal boost level __________________ Considering selling my car to fund my race car: take a look and tell me what you think. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ml#post1041280

March 23rd, 2009, 11:25 PM	#18
Fluffy The Rhino Bearer of Bad News I has mustang and legacy. Slower than my Ruger. Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: The Fuckening Posts: 2,392 iTrader: 0 reviews	Is this your DD? If so, you don't want a monster NA street car as your daily. If you're going to go turbo, you'll want to build it for that. __________________ ~MOD NUTSWINGER~ My Tongue Soothes Razorburn STOPSAYINGFAIL.COM EVERY FART IS A GAMBLE Just Think Of Me As A White Blood Cell.

March 24th, 2009, 01:42 PM	#19
ModMustang97GT Hardcore Enthusiast 1997 Mustang GT Faster than an s4 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 1,598 iTrader: 0 reviews	Its not my DD currently. Although I am sure it will see alot of driving to and from work once its back on the road. My main issue with buying 3 or 4v heads, is i'm going to have to spend 3 grand to get the stupid things on there, plus the changes to the electrical system to support the things. And that is before I even get a turbo kit. Maybe down the road that would be the thing to do, but in the mean time. A set of ported 2v will work just fine. And once I get into squeezing the last bits of power out, i'll worry more about the heads. __________________ Aztec Gold 97GT. MM CC Plates, Panhard Bar, SFC's & Tower Brace Eibach Sway Bars H&R Race Springs/Bilstein Shocks MAC CAI, LT's, Catted H and Pro-Dumps KB Boost-a-Spark 04' PI Motor Author of The Official Suspension Guide

March 24th, 2009, 04:01 PM	#20
1TITAN Regular 01 mustang gt 13.98@100 Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Orlando, Florida Posts: 265 iTrader: 0 reviews	im buildin a motor right now, and you do what you want. if you wanted to do the aluminum block get a block out of a lincoln mark 8 change the pistons to 2v pistons and your ready for business, i was gonna do it myself but it was just timing how i got the motor ive got now.... the 70lb weight save in the nose of the car would let it handle like a champ and would definitly help in the get up and go department. __________________ destroy in the turns, then obliterate on the straightaway 01 GT 4.6/20 over cold air intake/70 mm throttle body mac longtube headers/custome H pipe/moroso spiral mufflers to side exhaust computer tune race seats / 5 point harness

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