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Old May 8th, 2009, 11:38 PM   #1
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noob, need upgrade guidence...


Ill try to make this short and sweet. I have always wanted a car to tool on but never really had the money to get something worth wrenching on. Im finally in a position to do so...

I am basically looking for the most power while spending the least money (isnt everyone?) So what im thinking is a 4th gen mustang between a 99-02. I like these body styles the best(GT of course). I would REALLY like to get one with under 40k miles for under 13,000. if I can do that then I have about 10k to spend on mods.

goals:

around 500HP or a 10 second car. That will be fun enough for me.



I saw a few SVTs in this price range the only problem is insurance sky rockets between the gt and the cobra. I mean the gt's insurance is expesive enough but the SVT's insurance is just ridiculous.


So The question is, if you had 10k to put under the hood, what would you do and in what order to reach this goal?

and the second question is, is the cobra worth what more it is going to cost me in insurance? Or would I be better off buying a GT and with the cash I will save on insurance put all the parts on it that the cobra would have had (suspention, traction mods, ect?)

My 2 best friends will be the ones helping me do all the work. unfortunately they have Scions and thats what they are trying to get me to buy. But i think its stupid to pay 18k for a car you want to make fast that is as slow as the TC is... What would you guys suggest if you had 10K to put under the hood?

Any insight would be great. Im reading my ass off but EVERYONE gives vast variations on how to go about modding these and i just want the best bang for the buck without sacrificing quality. Thanks again!
 

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Old May 9th, 2009, 01:59 AM   #2
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well when you buy your car.
I would
1. do a full forged rotating assembly.
2. buy a super charger kit, vortech, procharger, kenne bell
3. blower cams with the supercharger
4. exhaust, gears, shifter and other bolt ons to take advantage of the s/c
then if any money left work on the traction issues.
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Old May 9th, 2009, 02:15 PM   #3
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parts for engine to be forged and boltons=4000
tranny=3000
rear=1750
Total=8750 and I have never seen a supercharger for 1250. 150 shot of of nitrous would fit right in your budget though.
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Old May 9th, 2009, 02:21 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Willy Mo View Post
well when you buy your car.
I would
1. do a full forged rotating assembly.
2. buy a super charger kit, vortech, procharger, kenne bell
3. blower cams with the supercharger
4. exhaust, gears, shifter and other bolt ons to take advantage of the s/c
then if any money left work on the traction issues.
don't forget about breaks, gotta stop somehow
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Old May 10th, 2009, 11:27 PM   #5
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What about an F-Body? You can get one for 8000 giving you 12000 to mod... New rear end and gears and a rebuilt trans and you still have 8000 left. 383 stroker kit and suspension and you have a very fast car.

If your stuck on a stang you could get a 5.0 due to the weight and make those quick. Just remember the more you spend the more you break which means you spend more. Its a good cycle though
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Old May 10th, 2009, 11:47 PM   #6
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I'd vote for the 96-98 Cobra.... Cheapest car that has a 4 valve and solid rear.

It will respond very well to mods and the only thing really holding it back over the other cobras is the heads which are better for boost than all motor. It has a better block than the 03/04 even though its not forged from the factory.

99 Cobras had a power recall so double check if you go that route. Also make sure if its 2001 that you get a Teksid and not a WAP motor. (Teksids way better)

Grab a 96-98 Cobra, Forge it with low compression, Boost it, beef up rear with whats left.
Or Forge it with high compression, Swap to C heads, Nitrous, beef up rear with whats left.
Or Gut it tremendously and run high 12's on 100% stock motor/drivetrain like I do netting sweet mpg too.

For what little more they cost than a GT they make up for it in modding power and horsepower potential.

Since you're going fast avoid the IRS Cobras unless you dont mind swapping it for a Solid rear. The mustangs IRS is fail.

Just some thoughts.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 02:27 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by acidtonic View Post
I'd vote for the 96-98 Cobra.... Cheapest car that has a 4 valve and solid rear.

It will respond very well to mods and the only thing really holding it back over the other cobras is the heads which are better for boost than all motor. It has a better block than the 03/04 even though its not forged from the factory.

99 Cobras had a power recall so double check if you go that route. Also make sure if its 2001 that you get a Teksid and not a WAP motor. (Teksids way better)

Grab a 96-98 Cobra, Forge it with low compression, Boost it, beef up rear with whats left.
Or Forge it with high compression, Swap to C heads, Nitrous, beef up rear with whats left.
Or Gut it tremendously and run high 12's on 100% stock motor/drivetrain like I do netting sweet mpg too.

For what little more they cost than a GT they make up for it in modding power and horsepower potential.

Since you're going fast avoid the IRS Cobras unless you dont mind swapping it for a Solid rear. The mustangs IRS is fail.

Just some thoughts.
Since when is the 96-98 Cobra block better then an 03/04 Cobra block? I realise that the teksid is a bad ass block, but we're talking bad ass aluminum vs. bad ass iron.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 07:55 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by TheBusher View Post
Since when is the 96-98 Cobra block better then an 03/04 Cobra block? I realise that the teksid is a bad ass block, but we're talking bad ass aluminum vs. bad ass iron.
For one Boss330 who is regarded as a top modular builder says "The iron block in the '03-'04 cobras are not rebuildable most of the time. Once past around 650 or so the main caps move around so badly metal is transfered from the caps to the block. The damage is so bad line honing will not save the block."

Als the guy who is known for running 9's on a naturally aspirated 5.4. He has built tons of these motors and knows them quite well.

Another site gives a great summary "
All aluminum Teksid Blocks were made in Turin, Italy by Teksid Aluminum Inc., the Worlds leader in Cast, Forged and Lost-Foam Aluminum engine parts. Teksid, provides the worlds best automotive manufacturers with the highest quality aluminum pieces in the world. They provide Ferrari, Lamborghini, Fiat, Porsche, Opal, Ford, Maserati, Audi and many other automotive manufacturers with the highest quality aluminum parts available.

Ford used their services to provide engine blocks in the early years of the 4.6L DOHC 4V engine, till they had the casting capacities to due the job themselves. While Ford did a fairly good job, their standards, alloy content, accuracy of cast, tolerances, and overall strength and quality was not up to those set by the Teksid company."

When building a high end motor, its ALL about tolerances and thats something Ford to this day cannot possibly match compared to Teksid.
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Addicted to Weight reduction... Lighter is better
97 Rio Red Cobra
- Tokico D-Spec Shocks/Struts
- MGW Shifter
- Stock from air filter to exhaust tips in a 2700-2800lb car, best of 12.68 @ 105
2002 Bright Red Escape XLT V6 4x4
- Stock
 
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