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Discussing new owner- suspension confusion in the Modular Mustangs Forum. I just bought a '97 GT Conv. I was thinking about putting a Tokico lowering ... Modded Mustangs is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. We discuss all aspects of the Ford Mustang on the forum. Registered Users do not see the above ads. Please Register - It's Free! |
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#1 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 5
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new owner- suspension confusion |
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#2 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1998 SVT Cobra
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 1,365
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If you want your car to handle, go to either Maximum Motorsports or Griggs Racing. MM sells kits for whatever level of handling you want, I think they start at about $1K, go up to $5K for a full race suspension. I'd check them out, see what they have, their tech support is really good about answering questions if you email them (generally get back to you by the next business day).
The one thing I would say right off the bat, is that Bilstein shocks are AWESOME. I put some on my g/f's Cobra, and it's been the best mod so far. Yes, they're pricey, but you definitely get what you pay for. If you're going to do a lower, make sure you get shocks designed for the lower ride height. The other thing I would say is that if you're building a handling car the stock 4 link suspension sucks ass. At least get a panhard bar - it gets rid of the snap oversteer Mustangs are so famous for. If you have the money, spring for the Watt's link. Also, for your best handling, keep your springs softer, and firm up the corners with stiffer sway bars. Too stiff of a spring and you start losing grip. Great for drifters, bad for you. This isn't to say you shouldn't firm up your ride, just don't get some uber-stiff race spring. The other thning you need to watch out for is your unsprung weight. A larger wheel and tire package is going to help handling, but that extra weight will hurt you some. You don't want to "overtire" the car. Balance is the key to a good handler. Also, with a wide tire you're going to lose grip on anything but dry pavement, though with the convertible, that may be all you're planning on driving on. That brings me to the last thing - with a 'vert, your chassis is extra flexy. Chassis bracing is your best friend. Maximum has a kit specifically just to stiffen the chassis, it has subframe connectors, a g-load brace, strut-tower brace, and maybe one other thing. Get it. Yes, it's some extra weight, but it's worth it (besides, it's sprung weight, so it's not *that* bad). So, sorry for the long and rambling post, but I hope it helps!
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---------------------------------------------------------- The Sacred Chao says "MU" '96 Bronco XLT '98 Cobra '89 Camry AllTrac |
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#3 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 5
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Thanks, the more info the better. I'll check out Maxium & Griggs. I'm very interested in a Watt's link but may go with a panhard & NASCAR type adjustable LCRs as I may use the car to pull a 400 pound trailer. I'm not really afraid of overtiring the car; new tire advances have wider tires gripping better in the wet than I ever would have believed, but I live in Texas and it's seldom wet around here for more than four hours at a time. I got a Tokico lowering set for my Tbird SC and am pleased with it but I am going to Blistens when they wear out. I may go the same route with the 'stang as the springs don't seem to have any quirks to them and the rate is tight (342 + or - 4lbs.) None of the ebay sellers seem to know what rate their springs are if they even know what "rate" means. I am pretty sure I'm going to a stiffer rear swaybar and if I get a deal on a package I will probably tighten up the front, also. Any advice on brakes? I've got ABS, and believe in it, but I'd really like to get more metal in the binders (yeah, I know it's unsprung weight but I'll give-up .04Gs to pull down my 100to0 by 20%.) I'm pretty sure the Cobra calipers will bolt right on but I'd like to know if the Mach 1's will. I've got the 17in factory rims so a 13in rotor should tuck in them. The bigger tires and rims are probably a couple years away but the drop is first, then the rear set-up, and brake upgrades occur as the old ones wear out. Thanks again.
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#4 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Solomons, MD
Posts: 634
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Check out www.steeda.com
IMO, steeda makes the best handlnig package with their G-Trac suspension. I have the full G-Trac on my 02 GT with 285's front and back. I haven't met a turn I couldn't handle yet. It's definetaly worth checking out. Steeda is pricy, but their stuff is really quality. They are an official "ford" modifier like Saleen or Rouch (sp*). My car came stock from the factory like this.... and it's REALY GOOD.
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"America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, bad ass speed." Eleanor Roosevelt, 1936 http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/8...angcopysn8.jpg |
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#5 |
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Regular
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: California
Posts: 151
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for suspension... since i have a car very similar to yours.... 96 GT convertile...
-Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs ($220shipped) -Tokico Illuminas 5-way or D-Spec Adjustable Shocks & Struts ($440shipped(illumina) or $500+(d-spec) ebay has best prices) -Steeda Full Length Subframe Connectors (a MUST for our convertibles) and then of course you would get all the added chassis stuff
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'96 Mustang GT http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/85/newsigxy7.gif http://www.myspace.com/jeedster |
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#6 |
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AssHole Admin
2000 mustang GT
11.79@125
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: PURCELL, OKLAHOMA
Posts: 9,113
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the steeda stuff is really good quality, but its also very heavy compared to others
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