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Discussing No filter in the Modular Mustangs Forum. My bbk air filter is damaged so I removed it till I get another one ...

       

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Old February 22nd, 2007, 02:30 PM   #1
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No filter


My bbk air filter is damaged so I removed it till I get another one my bbk cai is fender wall mount so it goes into the side wall of the mustang how bad will this effect my car, it will take a month before I get the new filter because its a seperate part! basically I have a cai without the filter on the end!
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Old February 22nd, 2007, 02:38 PM   #2
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it depends.. how much dirt your engine can handle before it dies.

just go to a local parts store and pick up a cheapo for now.. or put your stock stuff back on/.
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Originally Posted by DeMello View Post
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Old February 22nd, 2007, 02:40 PM   #3
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yes its bad you dont know what debre or trash u might suck up , and this can go into your intake manifold and cause damage in there, what i would do is go to auto zone and buy one of those cheap filters made by spectre and c if it fits, or put your stock parts back on until u get the new filter gets there good luck
 
Old February 22nd, 2007, 03:31 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by jagstang96
yes its bad you dont know what debre or trash u might suck up , and this can go into your intake manifold and cause damage in there, what i would do is go to auto zone and buy one of those cheap filters made by spectre and c if it fits, or put your stock parts back on until u get the new filter gets there good luck
yeah I just took my brother air filter off of his eclipse and put it on mine for the time being b cuz he does not drive his car in the winter
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Old February 22nd, 2007, 06:41 PM   #5
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get rid of that heat inducing piece of crap BBK intake and buy a jlt
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Old February 22nd, 2007, 11:30 PM   #6
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I actually have a march ram air kit with a c&l pipe to I get pure flesh air and better performance than just a jlt but if u dont like ram air kits jlt is the best cold air intake out there>>>>
 
Old February 23rd, 2007, 12:21 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by White99stang
get rid of that heat inducing piece of crap BBK intake and buy a jlt
Maybe this will help u out a lil 2 why I got my cai
Aluminum vs. Steel vs. Plastic Explained By John Concialdi, AEM Chief Engineer
5/28/2003
Aluminum vs. Steel vs. Plastic

The issue of heat absorption with an intake system has a degree of validity, however we have found that too much emphasis is placed on material selection, instead of the real issue of tuning the system. Our systems feature a unique shape and diameter because this is what we found to make the most useable torque and horsepower for each individual application in testing. However, for the purposes of this discussion, we will limit it to why we choose to make our systems from aluminum and the effects of heat absorption on all materials. If you do not wish to review all of this information right now, a quick synopsis of this discussion is outlined in the following bullet points, with complete topic discussions below:

# We use aluminum to eliminate any chance of the system rusting, and it's lighter than steel

# We limit our use of plastic because this material absorbs some of the sound energy we work to create in the inlet duct

# Whether or not an inlet system is made from aluminum, steel or plastic, the thermal conductivity of the duct material has little effect on engine power

# The rate at which air travels through the inlet path under open throttle, when one is asking the engine for maximum power, negates the effect of material heat soak, regardless of the material


We use aluminum—or a combination of aluminum and plastic plenums for throttle-body-injected applications that require a special plenum—for every intake we produce. This eliminates any chance of rust occurring on the inside of the inlet pipe. We have seen chrome-plated steel systems whose inner diameter became rusted over time, causing flakes of rust to travel along the inlet path. We also choose aluminum because of its lightweight properties. Heavier components place higher loads on the brackets they are attached to—or even worse, to the pipes they are attached to. We combine our lightweight aluminum design with a flexible coupling device we call a soft mount that connects the intake system to the body of the vehicle. In addition to the soft mount, we use doublers at the point where the mounting bracket is welded to the pipe for additional strength.

We limit our use of plastic because this material absorbs some of the sound energy we work to create in the inlet duct. Although we use the best plastic material for our plenums, it is still not as resilient and does not retain the visual appeal of aluminum over long-term use. Because we have to use plastic on throttle body applications, we take extra precautions to ensure that the aluminum retaining ring that attaches to the throttle body is anchored securely into the plastic plenum; this is done by making an interlocking mechanical link between the plastic and aluminum.

Whether or not an inlet system is made from aluminum, steel, or plastic, the thermal conductivity of the duct material has little effect on engine power. We have found that the tuning of the pipe, in addition to providing the coolest inlet air source, are the keys to making useable power. We perform engine inlet-air-temp studies when developing each application to determine the coolest location for sourcing inlet air. In addition to this, we determine the safest location for the inlet source to protect it from highly dusty conditions and water. To this end, we provide a stainless-steel heat shield to help minimize heat soak into the inlet area, as well as to provide protection from dust, dirt and mud.


At light throttle opening, air speed and airflow at the inlet system are relatively low. The high residence time of air in the inlet while at low-throttle settings will increase inlet charge temps when materials with high thermal conductivity are used. Typically, when someone is at light throttle they are not asking the engine to make power. Most likely, fuel economy is the issue.

When the throttle is fully opened however, air speed and airflow increase considerably. Typically, the inlet air speed of a 5.7L engine with a four-inch duct at full throttle is 34 feet-per-second, based on a volumetric efficiency of 70% and an engine speed of 3,000 rpm. Most inlet systems for every intake manufacturer for this engine are 30 inches or less. This means that the air in the duct of a 30-inch inlet length on this engine at the given rpm is 1/10th of a second—hardly enough time to transfer an appreciable amount of heat into the air stream on any system.


Basically, the rate at which air travels through the inlet path under open throttle, when one is asking the engine for maximum power, negates the effect of material heat soak, regardless of the material. We hope that this helps to clear up the issues of material heat absorption in intake systems. Thank you for taking the time to read this, we welcome your comments and feedback!
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Old February 23rd, 2007, 12:25 AM   #8
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i read that entire thing...
thermal this thermal that.

you forget the JLT also is a 4 inch inlet while the bbk is a 2 1/2.

screw heat absorbtion.


it's the SIZE that counts. lol
( it's true ladies! don't lie!)


bbk vs. jlt.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg jlt_vs_bbk_177.jpg (20.3 KB, 138 views)
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Originally Posted by DeMello View Post
i love hondas
SCT Custom Tuning, JLT intakes, Aeroforce Interceptor OBDII gauges and PLX widebands
email joe@tricktuners.com

 
Old February 23rd, 2007, 12:25 AM   #9
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well i don't believe in the engineer that is saying what is best blablidy bla, i am talking about dyno tests, been there to see the difference in almost every intake, lets just say bbk, mac, were at the bottom of the lists. I am sorry there is a reason that JLT got the highest hp and tq out of all intakes in the MMFF mag, cause his works. there is no bias or anything just speaking from proof.
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Old February 23rd, 2007, 12:27 AM   #10
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but hey if you want your bling factor go ahead and stay with BBK, and there is a reason it takes a month for you to get a filter for there intake, call JLT and ask him how long it would take for you to get a filter for his if it was damaged lol.
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Old February 23rd, 2007, 01:35 AM   #11
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put a sock over it... lol. just kiddin. wait that might accually work. but it would look dumb as hell. dont drive in the rain without a filter especially with cold air.
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Old February 23rd, 2007, 01:59 AM   #12
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sock huh!!! lol hanes or fruit of the loom , a sock would work probably work though
 
Old February 23rd, 2007, 09:44 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by White99stang
but hey if you want your bling factor go ahead and stay with BBK, and there is a reason it takes a month for you to get a filter for there intake, call JLT and ask him how long it would take for you to get a filter for his if it was damaged lol.
the reason why it takes a month is because bbk is sold as a unit an i need an individual piece i wont just throw on any filter, im putting back on the correct one and u might see a lil hp diff betwwen jlt and bbk not a real shocker thats gonna blow anyones mind but hey to each his own
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Old February 23rd, 2007, 09:46 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by HMUSN
i read that entire thing...
thermal this thermal that.

you forget the JLT also is a 4 inch inlet while the bbk is a 2 1/2.

screw heat absorbtion.


it's the SIZE that counts. lol
( it's true ladies! don't lie!)


bbk vs. jlt.
That i will give u size does matter in terms of sucking in air even tho my bbk looks nothing like that that one looks like one off the enternet maybe lol
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Old February 23rd, 2007, 11:56 AM   #15
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i used to have a bbk and saw the light and bought a JLT CAI. much better product. i could easily fit the bbk intake tube inside the jlt one. also picked up about 9 hp with the jlt and 14 ft-lbs of torque with the jlt
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Old February 23rd, 2007, 12:33 PM   #16
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it's an AEM in the pic... same diameter as a bbk.
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Originally Posted by DeMello View Post
i love hondas
SCT Custom Tuning, JLT intakes, Aeroforce Interceptor OBDII gauges and PLX widebands
email joe@tricktuners.com

 
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